This may be a dumb Question, but what do you guys use for the Rub-Rails for your boats. I'm getting the materials for my first build and I'm not sure what to use. I'm shooting for a 14' pirogues, and the plans call for 7/16" X 1 1/8" of clear lumber 6" longer than the boat. I can not find anything at the local Lowes that is that long. My current plan is to buy two pieces of 8' clear 1 X 2 pine and glue them to gether. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Newbie Question
- Thread starter BlackwaterJohn
- Start date
Home Depot ( around here , central Florida) has the door framing lattice strips in 18 feet lengths and that is what I use when they have them. If not then I use two smaller ones and butt them together at the center line.
Our Lowe's is a disappointment when it comes to wood.
Chuck.
Our Lowe's is a disappointment when it comes to wood.
Chuck.
John,
Whatever you choose to use, if you must splice, do two splices per side. Rather than on in the middle of the boat, do two that are offset a few feet in both fore and aft, with a solid piece amidships.
Reason is, that is the point of greatest stress, and you should have a solid piece there.
Whatever you choose to use, if you must splice, do two splices per side. Rather than on in the middle of the boat, do two that are offset a few feet in both fore and aft, with a solid piece amidships.
Reason is, that is the point of greatest stress, and you should have a solid piece there.
Kayak Jack said:
Point - Counter point ... I knew I could count on Jack.
Jack here - We were posting at the same time; I didn't read yours until after I'd posted mine By the way none of mine have come loose or done anything except to do there job. My guess if I don't tell them then they will just keep on holding the boat together for me. :roll: I do like one solid piece a lot better then having to use two and butt them together.
If it is a Uncle John Pirogue the center rib takes care of any center line stress after the rub rails are installed , they add support and strength to the overall design. The rub rails actually keep the area between the center rib and the two end ribs from the side flexing. So the stress is between the ribs and not at the center line.
Pick a pirogue up without the rails on it the area between the ribs will flex out and actually crack or break a rib or rib's.
Chuck.
Thanks for the input. Mine is an Uncle John's kit and it's good to here that the ribs take most of the stress. That was my main concern with splicing/gluing two pieces together. We have a Lowes here in town, but there is a HD down the road, so I think I'll try them and see if I can find a solid piece. I picked up all of the wood, except the rub rails, today and hope to get started this weekend. I'm looking forward to it... 8)
I also used long pieces from Home Depot, but if I was going to join two pieces, I would probably use a scarf joint. If you have access to a tablesaw and can find a clear enough 2x4x16', you could rip your own.
G'day John, and welcome aboard mate.
What you can also do with shorter pieces it to scarf them together, in much the same way as in scarfing the ply panels. I would recommend a scarf ratio of somewhere between 8 and 12. These are easy to do and very strong.
What you can also do with shorter pieces it to scarf them together, in much the same way as in scarfing the ply panels. I would recommend a scarf ratio of somewhere between 8 and 12. These are easy to do and very strong.
JimmyW - Unfortunately I do not have access to a table saw so I can't rip my own.
HarryMick - If I can not find anything long enough, I was planning on using a Scraf Joint. Thanks for the ratio.
HarryMick - If I can not find anything long enough, I was planning on using a Scraf Joint. Thanks for the ratio.
You can rip 2Xs with a skilsaw. Mark the 2x accurately for about four inches. Carefully use the skilsaw to cut into the end of the 2x for those four inches and stop. Unplug the saw, and clamp a small pair of visegrips on the front of the foot of the saw, hard against the 2X. Plug the saw back in, and just walk, making double sure you are keeping the vicegrip hard against the wood.
You will have to make sure that the 2X is very well secured. I generaly use drywall screws through the 2X into the saw horses.
Try to cut into the wind, because you are going to be making a LOT of saw dust, and if the wind is at your back, the saw dust goes directly from the saw blade into your eyes.
You will have to make sure that the 2X is very well secured. I generaly use drywall screws through the 2X into the saw horses.
Try to cut into the wind, because you are going to be making a LOT of saw dust, and if the wind is at your back, the saw dust goes directly from the saw blade into your eyes.
not sure exactly where you are at but there is a custom cut sawmill in Fort White that will cut just about any length and dimension for incredibly cheap. Mostly cypress but he has a little of everything on hand.
Jimsong - Never thought of that one...I'll have to give that a try.
Swamprat - I'm in the Panhandle...A long way from Fort White, but there is a Cypress Mill about 15 miles west of here.
Thanks for the info... 8)
Swamprat - I'm in the Panhandle...A long way from Fort White, but there is a Cypress Mill about 15 miles west of here.
Thanks for the info... 8)
I have spliced mine......with a loooong scarf joint. No trouble, just be accurate. Glue is for adhesive purposes, not for gap filling.
piper
piper
Blackwater,
The method really works well. I have chamfered hundreds of feet of spruce 2X4 for railing, and miles of pine barn batt. It works best on a factory edge. If you somehow screw up a cut, then that edge is forever useless, until the wood is run though a jointer or planer, which kind of defeats the usefulness of the method.
I stole the idea from an old carpenter. He used it as a matter of course. He could rip accurately without dragging a table saw to the job site.
I started using the idea because I needed to chamfer twenty foot long 2X4s, and I didn't have a 40 foot shop.
Unless you really trust your perception, you might mark the terminal end of your cut as well. The last four or five inches of the cut will not have the vicegrip to guide the saw.
Good luck!
The method really works well. I have chamfered hundreds of feet of spruce 2X4 for railing, and miles of pine barn batt. It works best on a factory edge. If you somehow screw up a cut, then that edge is forever useless, until the wood is run though a jointer or planer, which kind of defeats the usefulness of the method.
I stole the idea from an old carpenter. He used it as a matter of course. He could rip accurately without dragging a table saw to the job site.
I started using the idea because I needed to chamfer twenty foot long 2X4s, and I didn't have a 40 foot shop.
Unless you really trust your perception, you might mark the terminal end of your cut as well. The last four or five inches of the cut will not have the vicegrip to guide the saw.
Good luck!