Day 10: Wednesday 9-17
Didn't wake until 8 AM, but I needed the extra sleep. Was up late last night and I really had a rough day yesterday with my "lost in the dark" escapade. Figure between getting here, fishing and paddling in circles, I had covered at least 15 miles. Bit chilly again this AM, guess 40 degrees. I am wearing both my flannel shirt and down vest. Made my usual Thermos of tea and had 2 cups of instant oatmeal. I would be glad to pay $1.00 each for a real egg, and $5.00 for a piece of ham, or some bacon. I make about 5-6 pounds of venison jerky every year, but I used it all while paddling in Missouri/Arkansas earlier in the year. Besides, I am a little leery of packing meat that might attract bears. I'll make do with fish, noodles, instant mashed potatoes and rice. Some of the Lipton's Side Dish products are really quite good, and inexpensive. I wait until my local store has a buy-one-get-one-free sale and then apply a coupon on top of that. Net cost is about .45 cents a package. I'll order a big steak when I get to Atakokin. Sun is shinning, lake is calm; I have decided to spend another day here to fish and explore the portage options.
Entry 6:30 PM:
Spent the day fishing and hiking. First paddled/trolled to the northern end of the lake, beyond all of the portages. Found a nice sandy beach that would be excellent for swimming, if this was July. Only caught a few dink bass on the troll. Next stop was the portage around Chatterton Falls that I tried to find last night. Claimed up that steep hill (almost a cliff) and hiked the entire trail (I still would not call it a portage): Great hike with some spectacular views. There are 5 portages in/out of this lake: The one I came in on; one into Alice Lake; one into McDougall Lake and two into Russell Lake, (if you count the Falls one as a portage) which is where I want to go. The other one into Russell is listed at 76R and does not follow any water, it just goes directly over the mountain. That had to be the way to get to Russell; otherwise, why would they make a separate portage into the same lake? Just as I reached the landing for that portage, 2 tandem canoes came down the trail: Both were middle aged couples. I asked about it and they described it as,"Steep, rocky and technical". Since it was only 1/4 mile, I decided to walk it. Not too bad, really. So, at least I know what I face in the morning.
Spent the next few hours fishing the shoreline and caught a few dinks and one 14" bass that I filleted for dinner. At about 5 PM I needed a stretch break so I decided to walk the 16R portage into McDougall Lake.There are no "indicated" campsites shown on the map, but I could clearly see two on the far shore. If only I had more time! When I returned to the canoe, there were two moose, a cow and a calf, standing in the water about 150 yards below me. I slowly paddled towards them and got to within 30 yards before they bolted into the woods. Took a picture but I doubt if it will show much with this "cheapie" disposable camera. Regained my composure and saw another cow further down the shoreline: She never let me get close and splashed her way back to shore. Well, it was not the bull moose that I had hoped to see, but at least they were moose.
Getting late in the day, but I could see my little island campsite so I continued to fish. Caught a few more bass, some ever 15" and then caught a 16" walleye. Decided to have an all fish dinner and compare walleye head-to-head with bass for flavor. Paddled over to a small, flat rock and added those fillets to my bag. Had not paddled 100 yards when a bald eagle swooped in to claim the fish carcass. Camp was only a few hundred yards across the lake so I began to paddle/troll in that direction. One line had a serious hit; line peeled off like it was nothing. Fought that fish for a good 5 minutes and it turned out to be a big (guess 32" - 36") northern pike. No way was I going to bring that sucker into the canoe, he would have destroyed it and killed himself in the process. So, I just waited until he was less "green", grabbed the top of the lure ( 6" Rapala) and allowed him to shake loose.
Note: I remove the front treble hook from all lures I use up here. Two reasons:
I do not need to get "hooked" myself while trying to release fish.
The idea of "catch and release" is to release the fish alive, which is easier with just one hook.
Not a bad day!! Had some quality paddling (it doesn't get any better then Quetico), took 3 enjoyable hikes, caught some nice fish, saw some wildlife and have 4 fish fillets for dinner. And, I am sitting in camp, sipping cocktails, rather then being lost in the dark. Very glad I stayed an extra day.
PS:
Taste test (my opinion) between walleye VS bass. Walleye is a much milder, finer textured fish with a very delicate flavor. Bass are more "flakey", moister and have more flavor. I would have to "flip a coin" on this one: Both are excellent table fare!! I look forward to enjoying many more meals of both.
Day 11 , Thursday
Woke up to a beautiful morning of bright sunshine and a nice breeze out of the south (which is good for me). Decided to make some headway and perhaps be in Atakokin in two days. Went through my usual morning ritual and launched by 9:30 AM. Made the 76R portage into Russell Lake by 10:30 AM.
Russell is a large, sprawling lake with lots of fingers, coves and islands. My northerly route only covers about 3 miles of it. Wind had picked-up a bit (15-20 MPH) and the last mile is open water. Swells were only 1', with a few minor whitecaps, but I did get bounced around a bit. Glad I was paddling north, with the wind. I doubt that I could have made much headway against it. Exit from the lake is a narrow stretch of fast moving water. The map indicates an "R" (for rapids) but it was just a few rocks, no big deal. Quiet pool around the first bend so I stopped for a tea-break and to try a few casts. Caught a dink bass on the first cast and then hooked into a decent northern pike. I am not using steel leaders so it was a bit tricky landing him (I have lost at least 5 jigs to cut-offs by pike). Worked as quickly as I could to get a picture, measure and then release him. Fish was 32"+. By no means the largest pike I caught on this trip, but at least I caught it from shore so I could get a photo. One negative aspect of paddling solo is that you (myself) are never in the photo.
That short stretch of fast water leads into Sturgeon Lake, one of the largest in Quetico: It could be measured in square miles rather then acres. It is really 3 large bodies of water connected by "narrows". My shortest route would be to paddle north, 4 miles up a large section of the lake that is 1.5 miles wide with no protection from the wind. NO WAY, not in this wind! Instead, I charted a course that would take me 3 miles down the Sturgeon Narrows, then 1/2 mile west through open water, then turn NW into protected waters again.
Note: I had paddled that open section of the lake 2 years ago (in the opposite direction) and got "caught" out there in a strong wind. I can't think of any time I have ever been more "concerned" in a canoe. You can see the waves pounding against the rocky shore and have no choice but go on, knowing that if you "swamp" it means almost certain death from hypothermia. I was not about to repeat that experience.
I hugged the southern shoreline of the Narrows, so only had to paddle head-on into the wind a few times. Made the 3 miles in 1.5 hours and ducked into the last protected cove before being exposed to open water: Time for a tea break anyway. Secured the canoe and climbed up the hill (mountain?) to assess my situation. From that vantage point I could see for (10-15 miles?); Water looks more like the ocean then a lake. It is only 1/2 mile across that open water, but that is a LONG 1/2 mile against a gusting wind and whitecaps. Looked across the expanse, to the point I had to reach, and noticed 2 canoes beached there. I guess they were doing the same thing as me, waiting for the wind to die down. Sat up there for 1/2 hour and ate a bag of (store bought) trail mix. Climbed back down to the canoe and tried a few casts - no hits. Climbed back up again and sat there for another 1/2 hour. The canoes on the far point were gone. I guess they gave up and paddled back the way they came. All I need is a 20 minute "let-up" from the wind. Waited another 1/2 hour and the wind seemed to die down, just a bit: Still swells, but the whitecaps were diminished. I decided to give it a shot. Since I am still alive, you can guess that I made it. One of the toughest 1/2 hour paddles of my life: No "J" strokes here, I paddled both sides as hard as I could; Even remembered to lift the paddle horizontal to the water to prevent it from becoming a "sail". Sure was relieved to round that point into calmer water. If ever I needed a drink, it was then. But a rule is a rule and I still had a lot of paddling to do. This is no place to get "tipsy"!! dipped my cup into the water and had a drink of that.
Three miles, 1 hour, later I reached Lonely Creek, which empties from (note: the water is now flowing south, instead of north) Lonely Lake. Had hard time finding the portage (20R) into the creek, because the map indicates it as being on the left, while in reality it is on the right. Paddle up the creek was great, even though against a gentle current. Marsh grass reminded me of a section of Rock Springs, FL. Seemed like a perfect place to spot a moose, but I didn't, only 2 otters and another bald eagle. The creek is only about .75 miles long, so I reached the portage (24R) into the lake in 20 minutes.
Lonely is an "L" shaped lake and the portage put me into the bottom leg. Had to paddle west for 1 mile, then NE for 2 more miles. Wind had really died down and it was a pleasure to paddle. Trolled both rods but only caught 3 small bass. However, I did see 2 more eagles (they are common up here). Map reads P(24R) - pond - P(7R). Turned out there was a new beaver dam between me and the first potage. No big deal, I just dragged around it and found the portage. My notes read," VERY STEEP and ROCKY! After that it is just a "push" (3 paddle strokes) to the second portage. That one is flat, but muddy.
Entered Walter Lake and paddled its 2 mile length in 40 minutes. Wind has died down and paddling is a pleasure. This canoe can really glide through calm water. Portage (48R) into Elizabeth Lake is an easy one (by Quetico standards). I only had to paddle across a narrow leg (3/4 mile) of that lake to the next portage (165R) into Jesse Lake. This is a long "Mamma" ( well over 1/2 mile) and it's been a long, hard day, so I decided to "hop-scotch" this one: Carry the first load half-way, walk back for the canoe and carry that halfway, then switch loads and complete the trip: Same total distance (1.5 miles), it just gives different muscles a rest, which at my age I need.
By the time I finished that portage (over 1 1/2 hours) the wind was dead calm and the sky was getting dark.
(One high note was that I found a little thermometer and the portage: Now I can tell how hot/cold it really is, without guessing.) I could just feel that I was in for "something"? I had camped on Jesse 2 years ago and really liked it. Caught some decent walleye, nice bass and the biggest pike of my life (that I have measured) 38". So, I headed for that Island, which was less than 1 mile away. Felt a light sprinkle, so I put on my Gortex rain jacket (why not the pants, too?). Got to within 200 yards of the island when "all hell broke loose", I watched the rain coming across the lake but there was nothing I could do. Rained so hard, and heavy, that I could no longer see the island; In fact, I could barely see the bow of the canoe. Had to stop paddling and use my bailer to empty out water, that's how heavy a downpour it was. (Only time I have ever experienced rain that heavy was down in the Everglades.) Heavy rain only lasted 10 minutes, although it seemed like hours to me, and I made landfall on the island. Wind REALLY picked up (out of the north) and I determined that this site was too exposed, so I paddled to the next island, which had a campsite on the leeward side. Beached the canoe and the rain started coming down in buckets again, and the temperature was dropping. My pants were soaking wet, and boots filled with water: I need shelter, FAST. Started to set-up the tent but soon realized that was a mistake. The open door, window and vent allowed water to enter the tent. So, I retrieved my day pack, which is not waterproof (the one I have next year will be: any suggestions?) and wrapped that in the over-turned tent. Got out the tarp and set that up ( I can really do it quickly since it is pre-tied and I have done it so many times). Then set-up the tent under the protection of the tarp (time number ?? that this tarp has saved my ass!). Sopped out the water on the floor of the tent, laid the "inside" ground cloth and got inside to change into something dry, from the waist down. Pants, socks and boots were soaked, so I just put on the bottoms of my Gortex gear and got inside the sleeping bag. Within 20 minutes, I was "snug as a bug in a rug". Light a tea-lite candle ( I would NEVER, EVER be without one), had a handful of trail-mix for "dinner" and made a batch of cocktails.
Long, hard day with a crappy (wet) ending but I still love Quetico.
(The ole sparkey curse got John & I was in Florida.... :lol: Chuck.)
Didn't wake until 8 AM, but I needed the extra sleep. Was up late last night and I really had a rough day yesterday with my "lost in the dark" escapade. Figure between getting here, fishing and paddling in circles, I had covered at least 15 miles. Bit chilly again this AM, guess 40 degrees. I am wearing both my flannel shirt and down vest. Made my usual Thermos of tea and had 2 cups of instant oatmeal. I would be glad to pay $1.00 each for a real egg, and $5.00 for a piece of ham, or some bacon. I make about 5-6 pounds of venison jerky every year, but I used it all while paddling in Missouri/Arkansas earlier in the year. Besides, I am a little leery of packing meat that might attract bears. I'll make do with fish, noodles, instant mashed potatoes and rice. Some of the Lipton's Side Dish products are really quite good, and inexpensive. I wait until my local store has a buy-one-get-one-free sale and then apply a coupon on top of that. Net cost is about .45 cents a package. I'll order a big steak when I get to Atakokin. Sun is shinning, lake is calm; I have decided to spend another day here to fish and explore the portage options.
Entry 6:30 PM:
Spent the day fishing and hiking. First paddled/trolled to the northern end of the lake, beyond all of the portages. Found a nice sandy beach that would be excellent for swimming, if this was July. Only caught a few dink bass on the troll. Next stop was the portage around Chatterton Falls that I tried to find last night. Claimed up that steep hill (almost a cliff) and hiked the entire trail (I still would not call it a portage): Great hike with some spectacular views. There are 5 portages in/out of this lake: The one I came in on; one into Alice Lake; one into McDougall Lake and two into Russell Lake, (if you count the Falls one as a portage) which is where I want to go. The other one into Russell is listed at 76R and does not follow any water, it just goes directly over the mountain. That had to be the way to get to Russell; otherwise, why would they make a separate portage into the same lake? Just as I reached the landing for that portage, 2 tandem canoes came down the trail: Both were middle aged couples. I asked about it and they described it as,"Steep, rocky and technical". Since it was only 1/4 mile, I decided to walk it. Not too bad, really. So, at least I know what I face in the morning.
Spent the next few hours fishing the shoreline and caught a few dinks and one 14" bass that I filleted for dinner. At about 5 PM I needed a stretch break so I decided to walk the 16R portage into McDougall Lake.There are no "indicated" campsites shown on the map, but I could clearly see two on the far shore. If only I had more time! When I returned to the canoe, there were two moose, a cow and a calf, standing in the water about 150 yards below me. I slowly paddled towards them and got to within 30 yards before they bolted into the woods. Took a picture but I doubt if it will show much with this "cheapie" disposable camera. Regained my composure and saw another cow further down the shoreline: She never let me get close and splashed her way back to shore. Well, it was not the bull moose that I had hoped to see, but at least they were moose.
Getting late in the day, but I could see my little island campsite so I continued to fish. Caught a few more bass, some ever 15" and then caught a 16" walleye. Decided to have an all fish dinner and compare walleye head-to-head with bass for flavor. Paddled over to a small, flat rock and added those fillets to my bag. Had not paddled 100 yards when a bald eagle swooped in to claim the fish carcass. Camp was only a few hundred yards across the lake so I began to paddle/troll in that direction. One line had a serious hit; line peeled off like it was nothing. Fought that fish for a good 5 minutes and it turned out to be a big (guess 32" - 36") northern pike. No way was I going to bring that sucker into the canoe, he would have destroyed it and killed himself in the process. So, I just waited until he was less "green", grabbed the top of the lure ( 6" Rapala) and allowed him to shake loose.
Note: I remove the front treble hook from all lures I use up here. Two reasons:
I do not need to get "hooked" myself while trying to release fish.
The idea of "catch and release" is to release the fish alive, which is easier with just one hook.
Not a bad day!! Had some quality paddling (it doesn't get any better then Quetico), took 3 enjoyable hikes, caught some nice fish, saw some wildlife and have 4 fish fillets for dinner. And, I am sitting in camp, sipping cocktails, rather then being lost in the dark. Very glad I stayed an extra day.
PS:
Taste test (my opinion) between walleye VS bass. Walleye is a much milder, finer textured fish with a very delicate flavor. Bass are more "flakey", moister and have more flavor. I would have to "flip a coin" on this one: Both are excellent table fare!! I look forward to enjoying many more meals of both.
Day 11 , Thursday
Woke up to a beautiful morning of bright sunshine and a nice breeze out of the south (which is good for me). Decided to make some headway and perhaps be in Atakokin in two days. Went through my usual morning ritual and launched by 9:30 AM. Made the 76R portage into Russell Lake by 10:30 AM.
Russell is a large, sprawling lake with lots of fingers, coves and islands. My northerly route only covers about 3 miles of it. Wind had picked-up a bit (15-20 MPH) and the last mile is open water. Swells were only 1', with a few minor whitecaps, but I did get bounced around a bit. Glad I was paddling north, with the wind. I doubt that I could have made much headway against it. Exit from the lake is a narrow stretch of fast moving water. The map indicates an "R" (for rapids) but it was just a few rocks, no big deal. Quiet pool around the first bend so I stopped for a tea-break and to try a few casts. Caught a dink bass on the first cast and then hooked into a decent northern pike. I am not using steel leaders so it was a bit tricky landing him (I have lost at least 5 jigs to cut-offs by pike). Worked as quickly as I could to get a picture, measure and then release him. Fish was 32"+. By no means the largest pike I caught on this trip, but at least I caught it from shore so I could get a photo. One negative aspect of paddling solo is that you (myself) are never in the photo.
That short stretch of fast water leads into Sturgeon Lake, one of the largest in Quetico: It could be measured in square miles rather then acres. It is really 3 large bodies of water connected by "narrows". My shortest route would be to paddle north, 4 miles up a large section of the lake that is 1.5 miles wide with no protection from the wind. NO WAY, not in this wind! Instead, I charted a course that would take me 3 miles down the Sturgeon Narrows, then 1/2 mile west through open water, then turn NW into protected waters again.
Note: I had paddled that open section of the lake 2 years ago (in the opposite direction) and got "caught" out there in a strong wind. I can't think of any time I have ever been more "concerned" in a canoe. You can see the waves pounding against the rocky shore and have no choice but go on, knowing that if you "swamp" it means almost certain death from hypothermia. I was not about to repeat that experience.
I hugged the southern shoreline of the Narrows, so only had to paddle head-on into the wind a few times. Made the 3 miles in 1.5 hours and ducked into the last protected cove before being exposed to open water: Time for a tea break anyway. Secured the canoe and climbed up the hill (mountain?) to assess my situation. From that vantage point I could see for (10-15 miles?); Water looks more like the ocean then a lake. It is only 1/2 mile across that open water, but that is a LONG 1/2 mile against a gusting wind and whitecaps. Looked across the expanse, to the point I had to reach, and noticed 2 canoes beached there. I guess they were doing the same thing as me, waiting for the wind to die down. Sat up there for 1/2 hour and ate a bag of (store bought) trail mix. Climbed back down to the canoe and tried a few casts - no hits. Climbed back up again and sat there for another 1/2 hour. The canoes on the far point were gone. I guess they gave up and paddled back the way they came. All I need is a 20 minute "let-up" from the wind. Waited another 1/2 hour and the wind seemed to die down, just a bit: Still swells, but the whitecaps were diminished. I decided to give it a shot. Since I am still alive, you can guess that I made it. One of the toughest 1/2 hour paddles of my life: No "J" strokes here, I paddled both sides as hard as I could; Even remembered to lift the paddle horizontal to the water to prevent it from becoming a "sail". Sure was relieved to round that point into calmer water. If ever I needed a drink, it was then. But a rule is a rule and I still had a lot of paddling to do. This is no place to get "tipsy"!! dipped my cup into the water and had a drink of that.
Three miles, 1 hour, later I reached Lonely Creek, which empties from (note: the water is now flowing south, instead of north) Lonely Lake. Had hard time finding the portage (20R) into the creek, because the map indicates it as being on the left, while in reality it is on the right. Paddle up the creek was great, even though against a gentle current. Marsh grass reminded me of a section of Rock Springs, FL. Seemed like a perfect place to spot a moose, but I didn't, only 2 otters and another bald eagle. The creek is only about .75 miles long, so I reached the portage (24R) into the lake in 20 minutes.
Lonely is an "L" shaped lake and the portage put me into the bottom leg. Had to paddle west for 1 mile, then NE for 2 more miles. Wind had really died down and it was a pleasure to paddle. Trolled both rods but only caught 3 small bass. However, I did see 2 more eagles (they are common up here). Map reads P(24R) - pond - P(7R). Turned out there was a new beaver dam between me and the first potage. No big deal, I just dragged around it and found the portage. My notes read," VERY STEEP and ROCKY! After that it is just a "push" (3 paddle strokes) to the second portage. That one is flat, but muddy.
Entered Walter Lake and paddled its 2 mile length in 40 minutes. Wind has died down and paddling is a pleasure. This canoe can really glide through calm water. Portage (48R) into Elizabeth Lake is an easy one (by Quetico standards). I only had to paddle across a narrow leg (3/4 mile) of that lake to the next portage (165R) into Jesse Lake. This is a long "Mamma" ( well over 1/2 mile) and it's been a long, hard day, so I decided to "hop-scotch" this one: Carry the first load half-way, walk back for the canoe and carry that halfway, then switch loads and complete the trip: Same total distance (1.5 miles), it just gives different muscles a rest, which at my age I need.
By the time I finished that portage (over 1 1/2 hours) the wind was dead calm and the sky was getting dark.
(One high note was that I found a little thermometer and the portage: Now I can tell how hot/cold it really is, without guessing.) I could just feel that I was in for "something"? I had camped on Jesse 2 years ago and really liked it. Caught some decent walleye, nice bass and the biggest pike of my life (that I have measured) 38". So, I headed for that Island, which was less than 1 mile away. Felt a light sprinkle, so I put on my Gortex rain jacket (why not the pants, too?). Got to within 200 yards of the island when "all hell broke loose", I watched the rain coming across the lake but there was nothing I could do. Rained so hard, and heavy, that I could no longer see the island; In fact, I could barely see the bow of the canoe. Had to stop paddling and use my bailer to empty out water, that's how heavy a downpour it was. (Only time I have ever experienced rain that heavy was down in the Everglades.) Heavy rain only lasted 10 minutes, although it seemed like hours to me, and I made landfall on the island. Wind REALLY picked up (out of the north) and I determined that this site was too exposed, so I paddled to the next island, which had a campsite on the leeward side. Beached the canoe and the rain started coming down in buckets again, and the temperature was dropping. My pants were soaking wet, and boots filled with water: I need shelter, FAST. Started to set-up the tent but soon realized that was a mistake. The open door, window and vent allowed water to enter the tent. So, I retrieved my day pack, which is not waterproof (the one I have next year will be: any suggestions?) and wrapped that in the over-turned tent. Got out the tarp and set that up ( I can really do it quickly since it is pre-tied and I have done it so many times). Then set-up the tent under the protection of the tarp (time number ?? that this tarp has saved my ass!). Sopped out the water on the floor of the tent, laid the "inside" ground cloth and got inside to change into something dry, from the waist down. Pants, socks and boots were soaked, so I just put on the bottoms of my Gortex gear and got inside the sleeping bag. Within 20 minutes, I was "snug as a bug in a rug". Light a tea-lite candle ( I would NEVER, EVER be without one), had a handful of trail-mix for "dinner" and made a batch of cocktails.
Long, hard day with a crappy (wet) ending but I still love Quetico.
(The ole sparkey curse got John & I was in Florida.... :lol: Chuck.)