Day 16: Tuesday 9-23
Woke at 8 AM. Wind blew all night (I could hear the tent "flapping") and it is still raw, cold and gusty, with a west wind. What happened to the 80 degree, sunny days? My thermometer reads 48 (feels more like 38).
My trip up here, to Atakokin, was listed as 55 miles, straight through, but I know I traveled WELL OVER 100 miles with my fishing side trips. Hey, I came up here to paddle! Was told by the ranger, Jean, at Cache Lake that any return route, heading west, would be at least 135 miles. No big deal, I just have to get my ass in gear.
Note: I forgot to mention that, while in Atakokin, I called the outfitter, Voyageurs, just to let them know I was okay. They were nice enough to give me an 800 number, even though I did not use any of their services, other than the shuttle and parking. I thought that was very thoughtful of them, and Marilyn seemed pleased to hear from me. I will avail myself of their services on any future trips in that part of Quetico.
Went through my usual morning ritual and launched at 10 AM. Most of my course is west, so I will have to buck this wind all day. Can't really complain (too much) because I had the wind at my back for the first 10 days.
Now had to paddle down the west side of Jesse Lake (3.5 miles) to the portage (133R) into Oriana Lake. Took 2 hours, against a 15-20 MPH wind!! If I were traveling in the opposite direction, I could have done it in 40 minutes.Reached the portage at noon. It was not an easy one! After 20 yards, I had to crawl under a fallen tree. After that (my notes read) "very rocky and slippery". Now, by this time, a 1/2 mile portage is not that big of a deal for me. I really am getting into shape. However, I am once again fully loaded and this was a slippery route. Wet, fallen leaves compound the problem. Took very short steps and made it in just over an hour.
Oriana Lake also runs (basically) east/west: Another 4 miles of fighting the wind! I trolled one fishing rod in the hopes of catching something for dinner. Hooked a small (26") pike; He was barely hooked in the jaw flesh, so I grabbed the lure in an effort to jerk him loose. Instead, he flipped into the canoe and thrashed around for what seemed an eternity. Finally was able to get a grip and release him. During the process, I lost a lot of real estate to the wind. Decided to quit fishing.
Entry into Quetico Lake is through a short (1/2 mile) stream with a portage around rapids (20R - 32R) at both ends. Both portages were easy and the paddle down the protected creek a real pleasure. Arrived Quetico Lake at 5 PM to look out at a vast expanse of open, white capped water. First campsite is less then 1/2 mile, so I set up there. Sun was poking through and by 7 PM the wind had completely died down. Maybe this cold front has passed and I will get better weather tomorrow. It's about time, has been raw, windy and cold for 3 days.
Total distance: 7.5 miles paddling 185R portaging.
Day 17: Wednesday 9-24
Woke to a raw, cold, gusty wind out of the WSW: The lake is "white" (caps). Since the wind has shifted a bit, my campsite is no longer protected. Made a fire larger then normal for heat and to make a Thermos of tea: Also had 3 cups of instant mashed potatoes. No let up by 9:30 AM, so I decided to paddle to the opposite (southern) shore for "some" protection. Was tough loading/entering the canoe because of the rough water pounding it into the rocks. Took almost an hour to paddle 1 mile to a sheltered cove. Next mile is SW through open water, so I just have to "sit it out". Sky is darkening.
Map indicates a narrow strip of land dividing two sections of the lake. Thought maybe I could carry over that into some calmer water, so I checked it out. Paddled through shallow marsh until the canoe "bottomed out" and then walked a moose trail to the woods. Only a short stretch of woods, but then a LONG expanse of marsh out to open water. The lake did not look much calmer out there, so I scrapped that idea. However, I did find a sheltered area where I could make camp should I be wind bound all day. Paddled back to the sheltered spot behind the cliff. Water is still to rough to attempt a crossing.
Noon: I have been sitting in this cove for quite a while, with no apparent easing of the wind. I saw 2 tandem canoes" fly" up the lake, with the wind.They were hugging the far shore, which is a bit calmer, and did not see me. I was getting frustrated, so I decided to "give it a try"! Poked the canoe around the point and into "sea of white water". Tried to make some headway for 10 minutes, (gained maybe 50 yards) but when I took on some water I did an abrupt about face back to the cove. Hey, if I swamp here, I will get beaten against the rocks!
1 PM: Wind has shifted just a bit, and now the south shore is calmer. Could not paddle directly across, with the wind hitting me broadside, so I lost about 1/4 mile; But at least I could make some headway on this side. Hugged the bank (I mean, the paddle was "push-polling") until the water got shallow enough for me to "line" the canoe with a 50' rope. Would just push it out as far as I could and then scurry up the bank, as far as I could, before it was blown back to shore; Would gain maybe 10 yards at-a-pop. Eventually reached a point where I had to turn due west (for 1/2 mile) INTO THE WIND to reach the next portage. Noticed a sheltered spot that looked like it could be a campsite, but did not stop. Once around that last point, I was head-on into the wind, not making much progress, and it started to rain. SCREW THIS!! I turned around and went back to the sheltered spot that I had seen.
I would have to describe this campsite as "limited", at best. Really nothing more then a large, flat rock (maybe 25 yds X 50 yds) that ended under a huge white pine tree. There was just enough room to pitch a tent under the tree. No one had ever used this site, so I made a fire ring and began collecting wood, which was easy to do, since this was a virgin site. I even found 2 large pieces of cedar "tar knot" that I knew would burn in the heaviest of rains. Got a fire going (I was wet and cold) and started to set up the tent. Since this site is on a rock, there is no way to use tent stakes. Wind would "gust" around the point, every so often, and hamper my progress. Finally got the tent erected, and was putting in the gear, when I heard a loud banging noise: It was my canoe tumbling across the rock, and into the bushes. I figure it took 3 "rolls" before coming to rest against a fallen birch tree. No damage done. Thank God it did not blow in the other direction. Talk about being "up a creek without a paddle"; What about being up there without a canoe?
Note: I always overturn the canoe for the night. From that point on, I also always tied it to a tree. Doesn't take that long, and it could save your life.
In the meantime, the tent had also blown into the bushes. Gathered some rocks (10 pound?) and used them to secure the tent. Rain was getting heavier, so I hung the tarp over the tent. Would not have been able to keep the fire going without that "tar knot" cedar, but was glad I did. By 6:30 PM, the wind died down, rain ended, and I was able to cook a hot meal of Summer sausage and mashed potatoes, followed by a few cocktails.
Note: I drank cold cocktails (while freezing my butt off) this entire trip. There must be something "hot" that you can make with rum? Help me out here, unless it involves grits! Actually, that would not be a bad idea: Rum-n-grits would taste a lot better than just grits!
Was treated by the visit of an otter, who swam around the cove until dark. I think this was his spot, because I saw some "scat" (they have a different name for it down south - "grits"?) under the pine tree. Every time he got close, he would smell the fire (or me), snort and then dive. Made for a pleasant ending to a not-so-pleasant day.
Total mileage: A HARD EARNED 2 miles!! Hey, "Some days you get the bear, and some days the bear gets you". As bad as today was, I would still rather be here then at home, watching the boob-tube!
Woke at 8 AM. Wind blew all night (I could hear the tent "flapping") and it is still raw, cold and gusty, with a west wind. What happened to the 80 degree, sunny days? My thermometer reads 48 (feels more like 38).
My trip up here, to Atakokin, was listed as 55 miles, straight through, but I know I traveled WELL OVER 100 miles with my fishing side trips. Hey, I came up here to paddle! Was told by the ranger, Jean, at Cache Lake that any return route, heading west, would be at least 135 miles. No big deal, I just have to get my ass in gear.
Note: I forgot to mention that, while in Atakokin, I called the outfitter, Voyageurs, just to let them know I was okay. They were nice enough to give me an 800 number, even though I did not use any of their services, other than the shuttle and parking. I thought that was very thoughtful of them, and Marilyn seemed pleased to hear from me. I will avail myself of their services on any future trips in that part of Quetico.
Went through my usual morning ritual and launched at 10 AM. Most of my course is west, so I will have to buck this wind all day. Can't really complain (too much) because I had the wind at my back for the first 10 days.
Now had to paddle down the west side of Jesse Lake (3.5 miles) to the portage (133R) into Oriana Lake. Took 2 hours, against a 15-20 MPH wind!! If I were traveling in the opposite direction, I could have done it in 40 minutes.Reached the portage at noon. It was not an easy one! After 20 yards, I had to crawl under a fallen tree. After that (my notes read) "very rocky and slippery". Now, by this time, a 1/2 mile portage is not that big of a deal for me. I really am getting into shape. However, I am once again fully loaded and this was a slippery route. Wet, fallen leaves compound the problem. Took very short steps and made it in just over an hour.
Oriana Lake also runs (basically) east/west: Another 4 miles of fighting the wind! I trolled one fishing rod in the hopes of catching something for dinner. Hooked a small (26") pike; He was barely hooked in the jaw flesh, so I grabbed the lure in an effort to jerk him loose. Instead, he flipped into the canoe and thrashed around for what seemed an eternity. Finally was able to get a grip and release him. During the process, I lost a lot of real estate to the wind. Decided to quit fishing.
Entry into Quetico Lake is through a short (1/2 mile) stream with a portage around rapids (20R - 32R) at both ends. Both portages were easy and the paddle down the protected creek a real pleasure. Arrived Quetico Lake at 5 PM to look out at a vast expanse of open, white capped water. First campsite is less then 1/2 mile, so I set up there. Sun was poking through and by 7 PM the wind had completely died down. Maybe this cold front has passed and I will get better weather tomorrow. It's about time, has been raw, windy and cold for 3 days.
Total distance: 7.5 miles paddling 185R portaging.
Day 17: Wednesday 9-24
Woke to a raw, cold, gusty wind out of the WSW: The lake is "white" (caps). Since the wind has shifted a bit, my campsite is no longer protected. Made a fire larger then normal for heat and to make a Thermos of tea: Also had 3 cups of instant mashed potatoes. No let up by 9:30 AM, so I decided to paddle to the opposite (southern) shore for "some" protection. Was tough loading/entering the canoe because of the rough water pounding it into the rocks. Took almost an hour to paddle 1 mile to a sheltered cove. Next mile is SW through open water, so I just have to "sit it out". Sky is darkening.
Map indicates a narrow strip of land dividing two sections of the lake. Thought maybe I could carry over that into some calmer water, so I checked it out. Paddled through shallow marsh until the canoe "bottomed out" and then walked a moose trail to the woods. Only a short stretch of woods, but then a LONG expanse of marsh out to open water. The lake did not look much calmer out there, so I scrapped that idea. However, I did find a sheltered area where I could make camp should I be wind bound all day. Paddled back to the sheltered spot behind the cliff. Water is still to rough to attempt a crossing.
Noon: I have been sitting in this cove for quite a while, with no apparent easing of the wind. I saw 2 tandem canoes" fly" up the lake, with the wind.They were hugging the far shore, which is a bit calmer, and did not see me. I was getting frustrated, so I decided to "give it a try"! Poked the canoe around the point and into "sea of white water". Tried to make some headway for 10 minutes, (gained maybe 50 yards) but when I took on some water I did an abrupt about face back to the cove. Hey, if I swamp here, I will get beaten against the rocks!
1 PM: Wind has shifted just a bit, and now the south shore is calmer. Could not paddle directly across, with the wind hitting me broadside, so I lost about 1/4 mile; But at least I could make some headway on this side. Hugged the bank (I mean, the paddle was "push-polling") until the water got shallow enough for me to "line" the canoe with a 50' rope. Would just push it out as far as I could and then scurry up the bank, as far as I could, before it was blown back to shore; Would gain maybe 10 yards at-a-pop. Eventually reached a point where I had to turn due west (for 1/2 mile) INTO THE WIND to reach the next portage. Noticed a sheltered spot that looked like it could be a campsite, but did not stop. Once around that last point, I was head-on into the wind, not making much progress, and it started to rain. SCREW THIS!! I turned around and went back to the sheltered spot that I had seen.
I would have to describe this campsite as "limited", at best. Really nothing more then a large, flat rock (maybe 25 yds X 50 yds) that ended under a huge white pine tree. There was just enough room to pitch a tent under the tree. No one had ever used this site, so I made a fire ring and began collecting wood, which was easy to do, since this was a virgin site. I even found 2 large pieces of cedar "tar knot" that I knew would burn in the heaviest of rains. Got a fire going (I was wet and cold) and started to set up the tent. Since this site is on a rock, there is no way to use tent stakes. Wind would "gust" around the point, every so often, and hamper my progress. Finally got the tent erected, and was putting in the gear, when I heard a loud banging noise: It was my canoe tumbling across the rock, and into the bushes. I figure it took 3 "rolls" before coming to rest against a fallen birch tree. No damage done. Thank God it did not blow in the other direction. Talk about being "up a creek without a paddle"; What about being up there without a canoe?
Note: I always overturn the canoe for the night. From that point on, I also always tied it to a tree. Doesn't take that long, and it could save your life.
In the meantime, the tent had also blown into the bushes. Gathered some rocks (10 pound?) and used them to secure the tent. Rain was getting heavier, so I hung the tarp over the tent. Would not have been able to keep the fire going without that "tar knot" cedar, but was glad I did. By 6:30 PM, the wind died down, rain ended, and I was able to cook a hot meal of Summer sausage and mashed potatoes, followed by a few cocktails.
Note: I drank cold cocktails (while freezing my butt off) this entire trip. There must be something "hot" that you can make with rum? Help me out here, unless it involves grits! Actually, that would not be a bad idea: Rum-n-grits would taste a lot better than just grits!
Was treated by the visit of an otter, who swam around the cove until dark. I think this was his spot, because I saw some "scat" (they have a different name for it down south - "grits"?) under the pine tree. Every time he got close, he would smell the fire (or me), snort and then dive. Made for a pleasant ending to a not-so-pleasant day.
Total mileage: A HARD EARNED 2 miles!! Hey, "Some days you get the bear, and some days the bear gets you". As bad as today was, I would still rather be here then at home, watching the boob-tube!