Day 22: Monday 9-22
Today was a rough one!! Quetico threw everything at me, in the way of natural adversity, that you can imagine. A heavy rain storm passed through at 5:30 AM. Stars were out when I went to bed, so I did not lay the inside "ground" cover, or hang the tarp - BIG MISTAKE! The tent floor flooded and I had to move everything (in the dark) and lay the inside cloth in order to keep my sleeping bag dry.
I NEED A BETTER TENT!
Didn't wake until 8 AM, and had to hang everything out to dry. Started a fire and went through my usual morning ritual, with my North-South Mush (grits and oatmeal) for breakfast. At 10 AM, my 2 buddies came down river and stopped in to say goodbye. Mentioned that a bear invaded their camp last night, but their food bag was hung high and no damage was done. We were both going down river, but after that, they were headed south and I would turn east. Just below my campsite, there is a small set of rapids, maybe Class I+ (?). I watched them portage around them. Now, I don't claim to be Mr. Whitewater, but I fish rapids tougher then that, in PA and NJ.
Finally launched at 10:30 AM (late start) and fished the rapids that those guys had portaged around. Not bragging, just want to point out the difference in personal choices. I mean, there was not even a white ripple! Continued on until I reached a "decision point" where the river splits. Do I take the short, fewer portage route, or do I take the "back country" route? Given that option, I will (almost) always elect to take "the path least traveled". Hey, I came up here to paddle a wilderness area.
River narrows before reaching Minn Lake, and has 5 portages (9-13-6-90-5R). First portage was easy, in fact, I did not even lift the canoe over my head, I just carried it on it's side. (9 rods is only 150'. Second portage was not that tough, but both the landing/launching sites were rocky and hard to negotiate. Hurt my back, just a bit, getting the gear out of the canoe. Third portage is around an old beaver dam: Carried my gear, but just dragged the canoe over it.
Had trouble finding the next portage. The river splits and makes a loop; tried both sections and wound up at the same big beaver dam. Just then, the sky got very dark, so I went back to the last portage (only 50 yards) and pulled the canoe up under a big pine tree. Rained heavy, wind got very gusty and then it started to hail; not "golf ball" size, but big enough to bounce off the ground. Only lasted a few minutes and changed back to rain: 5 minutes later, the sun was out. I know the weather changes quickly in Florida and Texas, but this was dramatic. This break gave me a chance to study the map and I decided that this big beaver dam must be a new, uncharted one: No other choice but to carry around it. Followed a (moose?) trail, off to the right and carried my gear down that (2 trips), then dragged the canoe. Process took over 1/2 hour.
Continued down river to a fork, where the current flow changed. Current went west, but I had to take the southern fork. So, from this point on I would be paddling against the current. Found the 4th portage, which is listed at 90R; It is more like 130R and has every adversity that a portage can pose - Slippery roots, large rocks, mud that was almost over my 12" boots, steep slopes, a fallen tree to climb over, and everything compounded by the recent rain and fallen leaves. Don't know how many portages I have done on this trip, but this was the toughest. Only 100 yards of open water to the 5th portage, which was steep, but short.That put me on Minn Lake.
Minn is a small lake and I paddled/trolled its 2 mile length with the wind at my back. It's about time I got a break. Reached the Darky River at 3 PM. I was not sure which direction the current flowed, bit I could have guessed - against me!! There is a nice campsite right where the river enters the lake. It has a large open area, carpeted with pine needles; a fire pit nestled back in the trees (most of them are located on an exposed rock), and plenty of firewood. Next campsite is located 2 miles, and 3 portages, away so I decided to stay here: It had been a tough day.
After camp was established, I fished the lake for an hour, but never had a hit. I guess that cold dain, and hail, has put these fish into hibernation. Dinner tonight will be Lipton's Chicken Fettuccini and a pot of Knorr vegetable soup. Can't wait to see what Quetico will throw at me tomorrow!
Day 23: Tuesday 9-30
Woke at 7:30 AM and was greeted with a real chill. My canoe hull was covered with ice beads and the wet towel that I had laid on it was stiff as a board. Underwear/socks that I rinsed-out were also frozen solid. Thin layer of ice in the water jug, too. Thermometer reads 35 degrees. First 4-5 days of this trip, I wore nothing but a T-shirt; Now, I am wearing everything I own (Thermal undershirt, flannel shirt, wool jacket and goose down vest). Got a fire going and enjoyed my morning tea, breakfast (last packet of Hungry Jack pancakes).
While making my morning "Nature call" walk, I happened across a good "find"; a bleached-out beaver scull. Toyed with it for awhile and found that the two top teeth could easily be removed. Each one forms a (almost) perfect half circle, and when placed end-to-end, form a circle of 2.5" diameter. Might make a unique necklace? Hey, if I can't see a live beaver, at least I know they exist (or did at one time) up here.
Note: Last trip up here, I saw (at least) 12-15 beaver. ??
Launched at 9 AM for the 10 mile, 5 portage, paddle "up" the narrow the Darky River. turned out the wind was at my back most of the day, so it negated the 1-2 MPH current. First portage (55R) was easy but the put-in was a steep, slippery rock. Took some doing to load the canoe without falling in the water. Second portage (11R) was a "walk in the park". I reached the "listed" campsite in 2 hours. Glad I did not paddle to it last night, because the site is very small. River is about 50 yards wide with marsh on both banks. I should be seeing wildlife!!
Next indication on the map is an "R", for rapids. Portage around that is short, but steep at both ends: About like climbing/descending a long flight of stairs without the benefit of the steps. Next portage is listed at 32R, but the beavers have constructed a dam which eliminates most of the rapids, so the walk is much shorter. River narrows, after that, and the banks are steep and rocky. Started to rain.
Next obstacle is an "uncharted" beaver dam - a BIG ONE! Below the dam, the current is very swift (almost rapids) and is difficult to paddle. In order to exit the canoe, I had to tie a line to a stump, get out and then pull the canoe back. Above the dam, the water has flooded up to the steep bank: Very difficult walking, and the water was almost over my boot tops. Had to make 4 separate trips over the 30 yards to clear water. Meantime, the rain became heavier then changed to snow - yes, SNOW!! Only lasted about 5 minutes, but was heavy and stuck to my gear.
Next portage (45R) is very steep; more like climbing a ladder then a flight of stairs. Got my gear over it and looked up river to see (what I thought was) another "uncharted" beaver dam. I yelled an expletive that could be heard on both sides of the border. Turned out to be a log jam that I was able to drag around. Smooth sailing for the next 2 miles, to Darky Lake. By the time I reached the lake, the rain had changed back to heavy snow; Visibility was down to 50 yards. No way I could paddle 1.5 miles across the lake. Fortunately, there are 3 campsites at this end of the lake. First 2 were located on high bluffs, exposed to the wind: Third one is on a small island and the tent site is on the leeward side. Dragged the canoe ashore and drank my last cup of tea. Snow changed back to rain, but it is still windy and cold. It's only 2 PM, but I have decided to spend the night here. Took advantage of a lull in the rain to set up the tarp and tent.
5 PM: Rain is now heavy and wind gusty. Will spend the rest of the night, in the tent, boiling water over tea-lite candles. Will the sun ever shine??
Today was a rough one!! Quetico threw everything at me, in the way of natural adversity, that you can imagine. A heavy rain storm passed through at 5:30 AM. Stars were out when I went to bed, so I did not lay the inside "ground" cover, or hang the tarp - BIG MISTAKE! The tent floor flooded and I had to move everything (in the dark) and lay the inside cloth in order to keep my sleeping bag dry.
I NEED A BETTER TENT!
Didn't wake until 8 AM, and had to hang everything out to dry. Started a fire and went through my usual morning ritual, with my North-South Mush (grits and oatmeal) for breakfast. At 10 AM, my 2 buddies came down river and stopped in to say goodbye. Mentioned that a bear invaded their camp last night, but their food bag was hung high and no damage was done. We were both going down river, but after that, they were headed south and I would turn east. Just below my campsite, there is a small set of rapids, maybe Class I+ (?). I watched them portage around them. Now, I don't claim to be Mr. Whitewater, but I fish rapids tougher then that, in PA and NJ.
Finally launched at 10:30 AM (late start) and fished the rapids that those guys had portaged around. Not bragging, just want to point out the difference in personal choices. I mean, there was not even a white ripple! Continued on until I reached a "decision point" where the river splits. Do I take the short, fewer portage route, or do I take the "back country" route? Given that option, I will (almost) always elect to take "the path least traveled". Hey, I came up here to paddle a wilderness area.
River narrows before reaching Minn Lake, and has 5 portages (9-13-6-90-5R). First portage was easy, in fact, I did not even lift the canoe over my head, I just carried it on it's side. (9 rods is only 150'. Second portage was not that tough, but both the landing/launching sites were rocky and hard to negotiate. Hurt my back, just a bit, getting the gear out of the canoe. Third portage is around an old beaver dam: Carried my gear, but just dragged the canoe over it.
Had trouble finding the next portage. The river splits and makes a loop; tried both sections and wound up at the same big beaver dam. Just then, the sky got very dark, so I went back to the last portage (only 50 yards) and pulled the canoe up under a big pine tree. Rained heavy, wind got very gusty and then it started to hail; not "golf ball" size, but big enough to bounce off the ground. Only lasted a few minutes and changed back to rain: 5 minutes later, the sun was out. I know the weather changes quickly in Florida and Texas, but this was dramatic. This break gave me a chance to study the map and I decided that this big beaver dam must be a new, uncharted one: No other choice but to carry around it. Followed a (moose?) trail, off to the right and carried my gear down that (2 trips), then dragged the canoe. Process took over 1/2 hour.
Continued down river to a fork, where the current flow changed. Current went west, but I had to take the southern fork. So, from this point on I would be paddling against the current. Found the 4th portage, which is listed at 90R; It is more like 130R and has every adversity that a portage can pose - Slippery roots, large rocks, mud that was almost over my 12" boots, steep slopes, a fallen tree to climb over, and everything compounded by the recent rain and fallen leaves. Don't know how many portages I have done on this trip, but this was the toughest. Only 100 yards of open water to the 5th portage, which was steep, but short.That put me on Minn Lake.
Minn is a small lake and I paddled/trolled its 2 mile length with the wind at my back. It's about time I got a break. Reached the Darky River at 3 PM. I was not sure which direction the current flowed, bit I could have guessed - against me!! There is a nice campsite right where the river enters the lake. It has a large open area, carpeted with pine needles; a fire pit nestled back in the trees (most of them are located on an exposed rock), and plenty of firewood. Next campsite is located 2 miles, and 3 portages, away so I decided to stay here: It had been a tough day.
After camp was established, I fished the lake for an hour, but never had a hit. I guess that cold dain, and hail, has put these fish into hibernation. Dinner tonight will be Lipton's Chicken Fettuccini and a pot of Knorr vegetable soup. Can't wait to see what Quetico will throw at me tomorrow!
Day 23: Tuesday 9-30
Woke at 7:30 AM and was greeted with a real chill. My canoe hull was covered with ice beads and the wet towel that I had laid on it was stiff as a board. Underwear/socks that I rinsed-out were also frozen solid. Thin layer of ice in the water jug, too. Thermometer reads 35 degrees. First 4-5 days of this trip, I wore nothing but a T-shirt; Now, I am wearing everything I own (Thermal undershirt, flannel shirt, wool jacket and goose down vest). Got a fire going and enjoyed my morning tea, breakfast (last packet of Hungry Jack pancakes).
While making my morning "Nature call" walk, I happened across a good "find"; a bleached-out beaver scull. Toyed with it for awhile and found that the two top teeth could easily be removed. Each one forms a (almost) perfect half circle, and when placed end-to-end, form a circle of 2.5" diameter. Might make a unique necklace? Hey, if I can't see a live beaver, at least I know they exist (or did at one time) up here.
Note: Last trip up here, I saw (at least) 12-15 beaver. ??
Launched at 9 AM for the 10 mile, 5 portage, paddle "up" the narrow the Darky River. turned out the wind was at my back most of the day, so it negated the 1-2 MPH current. First portage (55R) was easy but the put-in was a steep, slippery rock. Took some doing to load the canoe without falling in the water. Second portage (11R) was a "walk in the park". I reached the "listed" campsite in 2 hours. Glad I did not paddle to it last night, because the site is very small. River is about 50 yards wide with marsh on both banks. I should be seeing wildlife!!
Next indication on the map is an "R", for rapids. Portage around that is short, but steep at both ends: About like climbing/descending a long flight of stairs without the benefit of the steps. Next portage is listed at 32R, but the beavers have constructed a dam which eliminates most of the rapids, so the walk is much shorter. River narrows, after that, and the banks are steep and rocky. Started to rain.
Next obstacle is an "uncharted" beaver dam - a BIG ONE! Below the dam, the current is very swift (almost rapids) and is difficult to paddle. In order to exit the canoe, I had to tie a line to a stump, get out and then pull the canoe back. Above the dam, the water has flooded up to the steep bank: Very difficult walking, and the water was almost over my boot tops. Had to make 4 separate trips over the 30 yards to clear water. Meantime, the rain became heavier then changed to snow - yes, SNOW!! Only lasted about 5 minutes, but was heavy and stuck to my gear.
Next portage (45R) is very steep; more like climbing a ladder then a flight of stairs. Got my gear over it and looked up river to see (what I thought was) another "uncharted" beaver dam. I yelled an expletive that could be heard on both sides of the border. Turned out to be a log jam that I was able to drag around. Smooth sailing for the next 2 miles, to Darky Lake. By the time I reached the lake, the rain had changed back to heavy snow; Visibility was down to 50 yards. No way I could paddle 1.5 miles across the lake. Fortunately, there are 3 campsites at this end of the lake. First 2 were located on high bluffs, exposed to the wind: Third one is on a small island and the tent site is on the leeward side. Dragged the canoe ashore and drank my last cup of tea. Snow changed back to rain, but it is still windy and cold. It's only 2 PM, but I have decided to spend the night here. Took advantage of a lull in the rain to set up the tarp and tent.
5 PM: Rain is now heavy and wind gusty. Will spend the rest of the night, in the tent, boiling water over tea-lite candles. Will the sun ever shine??
The purple area is the vestibule I was telling you about, outside the living area of the tent.