Day 8: Monday 9-15
A bit chilly this AM, would guess about 40 degrees: I always forget to buy one of those little thermometers. Fire felt good, so I kept it going long enough to make a batch of Hungry Jack pancakes for breakfast: Not as good as those Chuck makes, but I am cooking on an open fire, not a Coleman stove. Good excuse?? decided to put on a few miles today. My original plan was to reach Atakokin in (about) 10 days and I am only halfway there. Next stop will be Keats Lake, a distance of about 5 miles, with 3 short portages around rapids and one 60R portage, named "Have a Smoke Portage" around Snake Falls.
Slowly paddled/trolled my way to the first set of rapids and determined I could not run them. They were not that rough, just no way to get the canoe through the large rocks. Portage is only a short one, but it's time consuming to load/unload the gear at each end. Second set of rapids turned out to be nothing more than a swift current. Third set was maybe Class II, so I opted to run them: 2 little bumps, 2 skipped heartbeats and I was home free. The direct route to Keats Lake was about 1 mile, but since I saved so much time avoiding 2 of the rapids portages, I decided to take a 3 mile detour through Shelly Lake in the hopes of seeing some wildlife "off the beaten path". I am surprised at how many other paddlers I have seen this time of year: Saw 4 more today. Shelly turned out to be a disappointment; only wildlife was a flock of mergansers and only fish a dink bass. However, it was still a nice lake to paddle.
Portage around the falls was not too tough (or, I am just getting into better shape). Fished below the falls for 1/2 hour and never had a hit. Lower (east) end of Keats is shallow, with a perceptible current flow. Trolled the 1 mile to the campsite but only caught 2 dink bass and 1 small pike. Nice campsite, but a long walk from the canoe. Had firewood gathered and camp set by 2 PM, so I decided to "take the plunge" - a much needed bath. It is a NO-NO to use soap in the lake; After all, everybody up here drinks the water, unfiltered. So, I use the "gallon-jug" method. Fill the jug and then boil 1 quart; pour that quart back into the jug and then refill the pot to boil another quart. The result is a gallon of (almost) hot water, which is enough to lather-up and rinse off 99.9% of the soap suds. Then walk back down to the lake for that final (very cold) rinse. Spent the next hour basking in the sun to dry off, while sipping a few cocktails. Boiled more water and washed dirty socks and underwear (again, away from the lake). Fished from the shore for aver an hour but never had a hit, even tried the salted minnows. Dinner tonight will be Lipton's noodles!
Day 9: Tuesday 9-16
Got up early, 7 AM, but wanted to give my laundry a chance to dry, so I treated myself to a long morning fire and ate another batch of pancakes for breakfast. Spent the morning hiking/fishing: Didn't launch until noon, and my clothes were still not dry. Paddled/trolled the 1/2 mile to the next portage, "Split Rock Falls" (72R) and entered Chatterton Lake. Portage was average difficulty: I am getting accustomed to climbing steep slopes, trudging through mud and then descending steep slopes.
Note: I might mention a product that has really helped me on portages. It is an adjustable, aluminum yoke made by Wenonah to fit their Prism canoe (or at least so I was told). I bought it while in the Adirondacks, NY 2 years ago. Cost about $100 but I would buy another should ever lose this one. It is adjustable to fit almost any canoe, locks into the gunnels, and the padded shoulder rests are also adjustable. Once set-up to fit your canoe, it takes less than 10 seconds to install (one clip-on strap). Last time I was up here, I used a "makeshift" yoke using a Thule tie-down strap run through a piece of foam rubber (they call it a "tubbie" that kids use for swimming): Then wrapped the tie-down around the outside of the canoe hull. That system worked (somewhat) but I would often have to stop for adjustments. I have tried several other yoke systems that attach to the seat, but found them to be less comfortable than this one. With the total mileage of portages on this trip (guesstimate about 10 miles) I feel the $ expense was justified.
Chatterton Lake is only about 4 miles long and varies in width from a few hundred yards to a mile, but it has some interesting fingers. The map indicated 3 "red dot" campsites, 2 at the southern end and one located just before the portage around Chatterton Falls. Checked out the first 2 campsites and found them to be unsuitable (am I getting picky?) - poor landing locations and up very steep hills; Plus, they were devoid of firewood. Paddled/trolled about a mile up the lake and came upon a small island with telltale signs (tree stumps cut off with a saw) that it had been used as a campsite. Sure enough, it had a nice little fire pit, level ground for the tent and firewood galore. No way was I going to pass up this opportunity, even though I had only traveled 2 miles toward Atakokin. Set up camp and even hung a clothesline to allow my (still damp) underwear, and yellow towel to dry. spent the next few hours fishing from the canoe.
About 7 PM, I decided to check out the portage around the falls. The map indicated that it was just across from a campsite, on the right hand side of the falls. checked out the campsite and it was obviously used often, not a stick of firewood to be found. I tried 3 different "possibilities" and could still not find the portage. Finally went back to the first one, beached the canoe and climbed the mountain. There was a trail but I would not define it as a portage, even by Quetico standards. I followed it for 10 minutes, up and down ravines and over large boulders. It did follow the river, but even if this was the portage, there was no way that I could carry my gear over it. I had walked further then I thought and noticed the sun was setting. By the time I got back to the canoe it was almost dark. Once the sun dips below the mountain ridge, that's it, almost instant darkness. To say the least, I was "concerned".
I wear prescription, tri-focal glasses and bring two pairs with me; one clear and the other polarized sun glasses. Naturally, I was wearing the sun glasses, which made it seem even darker. Took one last look at the map and determined that I had to paddle south for about a mile, then turn SE, into a cove to reach my island campsite. There was no moon, no stars, no light whatsoever: like paddling in a very, very dense fog. While wearing my sun glasses, I could not even see the bow of the canoe. Checked my watch and figured it should take me 45 minutes to paddle (slowly) to the point where I had to turn SE. I was in a real predicament: While wearing my sun glasses, I could not see anything, but I could not read the map, or compass without them. Would strike my lighter, put on the glasses, take a quick look at the map/compass, remove the glasses and paddle on (in what I thought was the right direction). By 8:45 PM I was totally lost, had no idea where I was. I could hear the sound of rushing water in the distance, but at this point I didn't know whether it was the falls entering the lake, or the falls exiting the lake; that's how lost I was. Either way, at least I would know my location, so I paddled toward the sound. At 9:30 PM I arrived right back where I had started! It was getting colder, and I knew there was no firewood at this last campsite, so I had no choice but to try again to return to my site. The thought of spending a long, cold night was becoming a reality. Put on my PFD for warmth and smoked my last cigarette (now things are really getting dire). During my last look at the map, and compass, my lighter "died". I only uttered one word (not printable), but it was loud enough to be heard from Thunder Bay to NYC.
Now, here is my situation: No glasses (that I can use), no lighter, no cigarettes and I am 1.5 miles from my camp (tent, sleeping bag, fire and cocktails). I must say, I was more than "concerned'at this point. Then, by the Grace of God, or the natural lunar orbit, a faint glow of light emerged in the east. The moon was rising!! Waited until it rose above the mountain before launching again. Now I had the 2 elements I needed to navigate; A source of direction (in this case, east) and enough light to see my compass. This time I decided to hug the eastern shoreline, no "short-cuts" (even though it was an extra mile) and just look for the yellow towel I had hung out to dry. Hit a few submerged rocks (since I was following the shoreline so close) but eventually saw my little yellow towel at 11 PM. I have never been so glad to see a clothesline in my life!! Quickly started a fire (which was pre-laid), got a new lighter, opened a fresh pack of cigarettes, and me and "Captain Morgan" went head-to-head for a few rounds while warming up by the fire. I had 2 bass fillets but it was too late to fry them, so I just diced, and boiled them in a pot of Ramen.
What did I learn from this "escapade"? I don't really know. Do I automatically carry both pair of eye glasses (what if I "tip" and lose both pairs), an extra lighter, a flashlight, an extra pack of cigarettes, a piece of birch bark (to start a fire) and a wool jacket? After all, this was only a "day trip" that went on too long. However, I really have to re-think survival gear, even on "day trips". My initial thought is a water-proof bag, secured to the underside of the canoe seat that would contain a few essentials: Lighter, birch bark, band-aids, 4 ounces of rum and a pack of cigarettes. Now, keep in mind, anything thus attached would add to the weight of the canoe on each portage. Any suggestions?
A bit chilly this AM, would guess about 40 degrees: I always forget to buy one of those little thermometers. Fire felt good, so I kept it going long enough to make a batch of Hungry Jack pancakes for breakfast: Not as good as those Chuck makes, but I am cooking on an open fire, not a Coleman stove. Good excuse?? decided to put on a few miles today. My original plan was to reach Atakokin in (about) 10 days and I am only halfway there. Next stop will be Keats Lake, a distance of about 5 miles, with 3 short portages around rapids and one 60R portage, named "Have a Smoke Portage" around Snake Falls.
Slowly paddled/trolled my way to the first set of rapids and determined I could not run them. They were not that rough, just no way to get the canoe through the large rocks. Portage is only a short one, but it's time consuming to load/unload the gear at each end. Second set of rapids turned out to be nothing more than a swift current. Third set was maybe Class II, so I opted to run them: 2 little bumps, 2 skipped heartbeats and I was home free. The direct route to Keats Lake was about 1 mile, but since I saved so much time avoiding 2 of the rapids portages, I decided to take a 3 mile detour through Shelly Lake in the hopes of seeing some wildlife "off the beaten path". I am surprised at how many other paddlers I have seen this time of year: Saw 4 more today. Shelly turned out to be a disappointment; only wildlife was a flock of mergansers and only fish a dink bass. However, it was still a nice lake to paddle.
Portage around the falls was not too tough (or, I am just getting into better shape). Fished below the falls for 1/2 hour and never had a hit. Lower (east) end of Keats is shallow, with a perceptible current flow. Trolled the 1 mile to the campsite but only caught 2 dink bass and 1 small pike. Nice campsite, but a long walk from the canoe. Had firewood gathered and camp set by 2 PM, so I decided to "take the plunge" - a much needed bath. It is a NO-NO to use soap in the lake; After all, everybody up here drinks the water, unfiltered. So, I use the "gallon-jug" method. Fill the jug and then boil 1 quart; pour that quart back into the jug and then refill the pot to boil another quart. The result is a gallon of (almost) hot water, which is enough to lather-up and rinse off 99.9% of the soap suds. Then walk back down to the lake for that final (very cold) rinse. Spent the next hour basking in the sun to dry off, while sipping a few cocktails. Boiled more water and washed dirty socks and underwear (again, away from the lake). Fished from the shore for aver an hour but never had a hit, even tried the salted minnows. Dinner tonight will be Lipton's noodles!
Day 9: Tuesday 9-16
Got up early, 7 AM, but wanted to give my laundry a chance to dry, so I treated myself to a long morning fire and ate another batch of pancakes for breakfast. Spent the morning hiking/fishing: Didn't launch until noon, and my clothes were still not dry. Paddled/trolled the 1/2 mile to the next portage, "Split Rock Falls" (72R) and entered Chatterton Lake. Portage was average difficulty: I am getting accustomed to climbing steep slopes, trudging through mud and then descending steep slopes.
Note: I might mention a product that has really helped me on portages. It is an adjustable, aluminum yoke made by Wenonah to fit their Prism canoe (or at least so I was told). I bought it while in the Adirondacks, NY 2 years ago. Cost about $100 but I would buy another should ever lose this one. It is adjustable to fit almost any canoe, locks into the gunnels, and the padded shoulder rests are also adjustable. Once set-up to fit your canoe, it takes less than 10 seconds to install (one clip-on strap). Last time I was up here, I used a "makeshift" yoke using a Thule tie-down strap run through a piece of foam rubber (they call it a "tubbie" that kids use for swimming): Then wrapped the tie-down around the outside of the canoe hull. That system worked (somewhat) but I would often have to stop for adjustments. I have tried several other yoke systems that attach to the seat, but found them to be less comfortable than this one. With the total mileage of portages on this trip (guesstimate about 10 miles) I feel the $ expense was justified.
Chatterton Lake is only about 4 miles long and varies in width from a few hundred yards to a mile, but it has some interesting fingers. The map indicated 3 "red dot" campsites, 2 at the southern end and one located just before the portage around Chatterton Falls. Checked out the first 2 campsites and found them to be unsuitable (am I getting picky?) - poor landing locations and up very steep hills; Plus, they were devoid of firewood. Paddled/trolled about a mile up the lake and came upon a small island with telltale signs (tree stumps cut off with a saw) that it had been used as a campsite. Sure enough, it had a nice little fire pit, level ground for the tent and firewood galore. No way was I going to pass up this opportunity, even though I had only traveled 2 miles toward Atakokin. Set up camp and even hung a clothesline to allow my (still damp) underwear, and yellow towel to dry. spent the next few hours fishing from the canoe.
About 7 PM, I decided to check out the portage around the falls. The map indicated that it was just across from a campsite, on the right hand side of the falls. checked out the campsite and it was obviously used often, not a stick of firewood to be found. I tried 3 different "possibilities" and could still not find the portage. Finally went back to the first one, beached the canoe and climbed the mountain. There was a trail but I would not define it as a portage, even by Quetico standards. I followed it for 10 minutes, up and down ravines and over large boulders. It did follow the river, but even if this was the portage, there was no way that I could carry my gear over it. I had walked further then I thought and noticed the sun was setting. By the time I got back to the canoe it was almost dark. Once the sun dips below the mountain ridge, that's it, almost instant darkness. To say the least, I was "concerned".
I wear prescription, tri-focal glasses and bring two pairs with me; one clear and the other polarized sun glasses. Naturally, I was wearing the sun glasses, which made it seem even darker. Took one last look at the map and determined that I had to paddle south for about a mile, then turn SE, into a cove to reach my island campsite. There was no moon, no stars, no light whatsoever: like paddling in a very, very dense fog. While wearing my sun glasses, I could not even see the bow of the canoe. Checked my watch and figured it should take me 45 minutes to paddle (slowly) to the point where I had to turn SE. I was in a real predicament: While wearing my sun glasses, I could not see anything, but I could not read the map, or compass without them. Would strike my lighter, put on the glasses, take a quick look at the map/compass, remove the glasses and paddle on (in what I thought was the right direction). By 8:45 PM I was totally lost, had no idea where I was. I could hear the sound of rushing water in the distance, but at this point I didn't know whether it was the falls entering the lake, or the falls exiting the lake; that's how lost I was. Either way, at least I would know my location, so I paddled toward the sound. At 9:30 PM I arrived right back where I had started! It was getting colder, and I knew there was no firewood at this last campsite, so I had no choice but to try again to return to my site. The thought of spending a long, cold night was becoming a reality. Put on my PFD for warmth and smoked my last cigarette (now things are really getting dire). During my last look at the map, and compass, my lighter "died". I only uttered one word (not printable), but it was loud enough to be heard from Thunder Bay to NYC.
Now, here is my situation: No glasses (that I can use), no lighter, no cigarettes and I am 1.5 miles from my camp (tent, sleeping bag, fire and cocktails). I must say, I was more than "concerned'at this point. Then, by the Grace of God, or the natural lunar orbit, a faint glow of light emerged in the east. The moon was rising!! Waited until it rose above the mountain before launching again. Now I had the 2 elements I needed to navigate; A source of direction (in this case, east) and enough light to see my compass. This time I decided to hug the eastern shoreline, no "short-cuts" (even though it was an extra mile) and just look for the yellow towel I had hung out to dry. Hit a few submerged rocks (since I was following the shoreline so close) but eventually saw my little yellow towel at 11 PM. I have never been so glad to see a clothesline in my life!! Quickly started a fire (which was pre-laid), got a new lighter, opened a fresh pack of cigarettes, and me and "Captain Morgan" went head-to-head for a few rounds while warming up by the fire. I had 2 bass fillets but it was too late to fry them, so I just diced, and boiled them in a pot of Ramen.
What did I learn from this "escapade"? I don't really know. Do I automatically carry both pair of eye glasses (what if I "tip" and lose both pairs), an extra lighter, a flashlight, an extra pack of cigarettes, a piece of birch bark (to start a fire) and a wool jacket? After all, this was only a "day trip" that went on too long. However, I really have to re-think survival gear, even on "day trips". My initial thought is a water-proof bag, secured to the underside of the canoe seat that would contain a few essentials: Lighter, birch bark, band-aids, 4 ounces of rum and a pack of cigarettes. Now, keep in mind, anything thus attached would add to the weight of the canoe on each portage. Any suggestions?