Question on painting technique. (For Dummies like me.)

[FlaMike]

I paint landscapes and still lifes with oil paint. I make my own panels to paint on and use only the best artist paints, some of them "hand made." They are quite expensive and the brushes I use for this are rather "pricey" as well.

But when it comes to painting other stuff, such as walls, boats, furniture, well. . . I suck at it. :shock:

So, here's an "idiot-level" question about painting.

The boat is now upside down on the saw horses. To paint the sides without sags and runs, should I use the rather thick paint "as is," or should I thin it out a bit?

I'm thinking it needs to be thinned, but with my track record, I'd rather hear from someone who knows what they are doing.

The paint I have is a marine paint, for fiberglass, wood, and metal. Says it can be thinned with mineral spirits (got some,) and is an oil-based, modified alkyd.

Before I start, I've got to return the "not-really-varnish" stuff to Home Depot and go by another place to get some Z-Spar "real varnish." I'll check back here before I touch that paint can.

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL

 

[JEM]

Even if it's thick, you can spread it thin. I'd use a foam roller or at least something with a very short nap.

You'll probably start to get some bubbles forming on the surface as it starts to cure. Lightly drag the tips of a dry paint brush accross the bubbles to "pop" them. You'll make some drag makes in the paint but because the paint is thick, it should self-level.

You can a web search for "roll and tip" painting and you'll find lots of helpful tutorials.

 

[oldsparkey]

If you don't put it on as thick as you would with some Gesso on a canvas and paint from the wet to the dry it should work good for you right out of the can. The wet to dry works really good for me when I varnish a boat so I got into the habit of doing it while painting.
(Wet to Dry = Starting the brush stroke on the wet paint ( varnish) and going to the dry ( non varnished) area. )

As Matt suggested , if you would get a bubble (I don't think you will , that usually happens when epoxy saturating ) one of the throw away sponge varnish brushes makes a good light touch dry brush.

A couple of coats with a short napped roller will apply lighter coats and have less chance of runs , drips and errors.

Chuck.

 

[FlaMike]

Thanks for the reply, Matt!

I keep forgetting the most people are not at home on week days, this time of day, unless home is also the job site.

I forgot that I do have a small foam roller with some spare rollers! I was going to use it on the epoxy, but lost it as soon as I set it down. Once was lost, now is found. :lol:

Thick paint, spread thinly. Didn't think of that one. I understand the "roll & tip) thing, guess I'll give it a try. It's not a large area, just the outside hull of a 15'10" Pirogue. And part of that is already covered with the epoxy/graphite goo.

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL

 

[JEM]

Nothing teaches better like experience! That's a good thing and bad thing.

Wether it will bubble or not depends on the paint. System Three LPU paint bubbles.

 

[FlaMike]

Thanks, Chuck!

You must have posted yours while I was replying to Matt.

I see you can speak my language, too. That helps.

I sometimes paint on canvas, but I much prefer making my own gesso panels, at least up to 11"X14" anyway. Although I've dabbled with other forms, I mostly paint alla prima, with Richard Schmid and Larry Seiler being my primary inspiration.

One of these days, I hope to take my paint box out into the back-country and record something of what keeps pulling me out there. You know what I mean. (Not a question, rather a statement of fact.) :wink:

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL

 

[oldsparkey]

I studied art in junior collage and at the Orlando Institute of Art under Ralph Bagley , worked at it as a commercial artist for over 10 years ( J.C.Penneys and free lance on off hours ) taught both daughters how to draw and paint. The oldest does it for a hobby and the youngest is a digital artist making some good bucks.

Gesso saved many a canvas for me , those things cost to much to toss. Plus I enjoyed building some high lights with it for the painting , sort of minor 3-D

Mike keep it as a hobby , don't make a business out of it , that is one fast track at wrecking all the fun of painting (pictures not boats) now pictures of boats , that is different. :lol:

Chuck.

 

[tx river rat]

Chuck
My girlfriend Sondra is one of those lucky people She is a fantastic artist
has made a living out of art for the last twenty five years and loves doing it. Now she isn't a purist she might be painting walls in a nursery one day
all kinds of characters she did several ocean scense in state prisions 21 by 140 ft wall for a historical organization I can go on and on but the most notworthy I think is if shes not painting shes not happy she hasn't made huge bucks but a decent living doing what she loves
Ron
I tease her saying if you stand still to long she will paint you
Just to make this oficail she is painting my hot air boat emblem on my boat :lol:

 

[BEARS BUDDY]

Once upon a time I painted for a marina. We used mostly Z-Spar products. The paint was thinned about 10% with mineral spirits.

After sanding and wiping down the surface, "cut in" any edges or areas the roller cannot do. Apply the paint with a thin foam roller, spreading the paint as far as it will go. Do a small area, then lightly brush the surface with a brush that has been wet about 1/2" up the bristles and then wiped as dry as possible on the can or roller pan edge.
Always stroke from the last rolled area into the previously brushed area.
Keep the strokes light and even and brush the long direction of the panel. Do not attempt to cover in one coat; you will only produce runs and sags. Once the paint has dried thoroughly you can HAND sand with 220 grit to scuff the surface for an additional coat if necessary. Done right the surface will be almost as smooth as a quality spray paint job.

For varnishing we did not brush the surface except to cut in edges and narrow spots. Roll on the varnish, then lightly stroke from the fresh to the previously applied areas. After you reach the end of the panel very lightly stroke the entire panel in one direction with the roller, overlapping the strokes. The bubbles from the roller will flash out of thinned varnish. It is imperative that the finish be applied in thin coats. Spread it out as far as possible and still cover. This method produced results better than spraying the varnish because there was no chance of any runs.

If an insect should land on the wet finish once it has started to set, just leave him be until the next day. Usually wiping with a soft cloth would remove the rascal with no visible marks left in the finish.

 

[FlaMike]

Buddy BEARS BUDDY!

Appreciate the Master Class! Just got back from a mad shopping spree and I came back with a quart of Z-Spar 1015 Captain's Varnish. I'll be able to roll the inside sides of the hull with it, but most of the rest will be brushwork, since that will be the rails & frames.

And I'll keep your tutorial in mind when I do it.

As for the rest, I painted quite a bit for a couple of years, about 20 years back. mostly landscapes as I said, a fair amount of still lifes, and the occasional portrait.

I occasionally sold a few, usually just to get more painting supplies, not looking to make anything on it. No way would I want to turn such a joy into a job! Besides, that takes more talent than I have on-hand. I've made the mistake of making money from various hobbies in the past, learned my lesson.

I'm going to keep it FUN! 8)

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL

 

[oldsparkey]

I'm going to keep it FUN! 8)

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL

Like in building more wood boats, Really sharp inquiring minds want to know and then all the rest of us on here are just wondering about that. :lol:

Chuck.

 

[Kayak Jack]

I have a kayak with Minwax peeling off all over it. Tomorrow, I need to start sanding it off. Looks turrible.

Once that is done, I plan to mark it out for converting the kayak (Pygmy Osprey Standard) into a decked canoe with a longer cockpit. Will use Matt's recommendations for coaming designs.

 

[tx river rat]

Jack
Is that the only change you are making on it
Ron

 

[Kayak Jack]

That's a pretty major change. All I contemplate for now. But, I'm interested in any ideas, suggestions, and questions you have.

 

[tx river rat]

Jack
I was just curious
I think you will love the big cockpit the one on my Freedom is soooooooooooo comfortable and easy entry and exit.
Why don't you put pic of your yak on here
Ron

 

[Kayak Jack]

Well, I'm the worst at posting pictures. Not digitized here. My Brownie Hawkeye is still running on 620 black & white film. The flash unit is kerosene powered.

I like the kayak, best one I've ever seen or paddled. Hull design will handle rough water that pours sideways over the foredeck without a skid or shudder.

But, as you observed, a roomier cockpit is easier. I don't need or use a boat in "rough sea" conditions. Even after modification, it will withstand much more wind and wave than a common open canoe. I could easily build in a mast step for sailing. I'd still carry most of the cargo - particularly heavy gear - near the center of the boat. But being able to load & unload quicker, and portage easier will be handy.