Reloading questions

[islandpiper]

Here I am, amonst the smartest, cleverest and perhaps Oldest guys online. I figure somebody must know how to get started reloading.....for now just .38 Spl and .32 S&W.......maybe one of you even have some equipment in the closet you could part with for a fair price. any info will be appreciated.

I know how to reload beer bottles........38 spl carts are a new thing.

thanks, Piper

 

[bearridge]

Friend piper,

Remember when Private Ryan wuz in that barn....hiz brother wuz bout ta "marry" the gal who fell outta the ugly tree...hittin' ever limb on the way down? Well, dont do it. I dont know nobody who sez it saves dough ta load yer own. Ya jest shoot more. If ya want some places ta order frum, yell out.

What do ya aim ta shoot with those rounds.....nutria? :wink:

regards
bearridge

In the United States the majority undertakes to supply a multitude of ready-made opinions for the use of individuals, who are thus relieved from the necessity of forming opinions of their own. Alexis de Tocqueville

 

[Kayak Jack]

RCBS has premier equipment. Equipment includes:

Reloading manual
Note cards for recording each load & its performance. I numbered each different load by date. A load today, on 25 August 2007 would be . If I slightly modify that load, the new one would then be 070825A. Etc. KEEP TRACK OF what brass you use, how many times it has been reloaded, powder type & amount, bullet type and weight, AND how the load performs under various circumstances and usages.
Loading bench (local manufacture)
Press
Dies for each caliber (.38 & .357 same dies)
Scales
Powder measure
Bullet blocks (local manufacture - more on these later)
Case trimmer
Case lube
Primers
Powder
Bullets (store bought)

Molds (for low speed balls you can mold your own)
Lead pot & heat source (Coleman stove)
Ladle

I've probably forgotten something.

Bullet blocks: I use a piece of wood about 3" wide X 9" long X 3/4" thick. I drilled holes in 11 rows of five wide. These holes do not go all the way through, but are about 1/2" deep. As you work the cases and load the bullets, you use these blocks. I think I have two of them.

I start with placing 50 empty cases in the block, open end down, spent primer up. Empty row is furthest from me. Starting with cases in the row next to the empty row, clean & trim each case, and advance it to the empty row in front of it. Run through all 50.

Turn the block around so the empty row is again out away from you, and one by one, install primers in each case. As you prime a case, move it ahead a row, and turn it right side up with the open end showing.

Turn the block around, and one by one load each casing with measured powder. Advance the cases as before.

Turn the block around, and, placing the primed and powdered case into the die, press a bullet into each case, advancing each case as before.

This methodology provides a handy rack to work with, and lets you know where you are in the process. Even if interrupted, it is easy to return and pick up where you left off.

 

[islandpiper]

Jack, just more proof that I have to come and visit you. I'll bring my sleeping bag and a bottle of Glen GhunPaadaire

Piper

 

[Kayak Jack]

Drop in, Piper San; we'll open up a keg of nails.

 

[tx river rat]

Piper
I got in to competion shooting (pistols ) a few years ago and here is what I found worked the best for me. i bought a lee progresive loader load up to 500 rounds per hour more like three hundred if you not in to big a hurry. after you load the stations all you do is put the bullet over the mouth of the case.
Using Bullseye and casting my own bullets I could load a box of 38 or 45 acp for less than a dollar a box.50 rounds I am sure it is higher now.
I was shooting a three pistol match 22 and 38 and 45 I practiced 4 days a week so that was at least 4 boxes of each caliber so 45 and 38 was 8 dollars store bought would have been at least 70.00 big difference
I have some acurate loads for 45 and 38 so if you get into it email me.
Ron

 

[Wannabe]

Piper
Got me one of those Lee Loadmasters like TXRR. For something like forty something dollars you can even git a gizmo that puts the bullets in the case for you. In any case it is worth spending the money for one of those Lee machines if for nothing else, just to watch it work. Rube Goldberg don't have anything on old man Lee. That machine is amazing to watch.
Bob

 

[dawallace45]

My reloading equipment is still packed away but I wouldn't part with any of it any way , what sort of shooting weekly or monthly are you planing on doing ? if your only going to be shooing 50 or so rounds a month they you can get away with a single stage press and with them my preference is for RCBS or Lyman but if your going to be shooting a lot then a progressive is the way to go , I have A Lee Loadmaster and for the price they can't be beat , I've had mine for over 10 years and up until 3 years ago I used to load about 400 rounds a week , I used to go through 300 rounds a week my self and I used to reload for a mate as well but back when my wife used to shoot IPSC with me I used to have to reload about 600 rounds a week , the reloading with the Loadmaster didn't take up much time but the casting and lubing of the projectiles did , I used to use the Lee 6 cavity moulds and I love them , they may not stand up to abuse as much as the iron or brass moulds but with care they last for many years , what ever press you use the Lee dies are excellent , I've owned pretty much every brand of die over the years and I prefer Lee , don't much like Dillon dies , the few sets I've had seemed to size the cases down too much and that shortens case life

As far a bullet lube the very best I've ever used is this stuff
Felix World Famous Lube

Felix Lube formula

2 Tablespoons mineral oil
1 Tablespoon castor oil
1 Tablespoon Ivory, or homemade soap (grated)
1 Tablespoon Lanolin
Beeswax - Piece approximately 3 1/2" X 3 1/2" X 1 "

Heat mineral (baby) oil until it starts to smoke.

Add castor oil, and stir continuously for 1/2 hour.

Sliver the soap, and stir into the mixture a little at a time, until melted.

Add the beeswax before the lanolin, and then when that is melted, reduce or remove the heat and add the lanolin, thus not running any risk of burning or scorching the lanolin.

1 teaspoon of carnauba wax can be added to give a shiny bore. This can be found on the seal of Makers Mark whiskey, or the red wax on cheese from the supermarket.

Once made, let cool. This can be re-melted in a microwave, and poured into the lubrisizer.



If you wan to know more about this lube go here http://www.castpics.net/index.htm and look under the research and data tab , if you want to make it you will really need to read the whole lot to be successful , this stuff is great I use it in every thing from my 38 loads to my 35/303 and that is pushing a 300 gn cast lead projectile at 2000 fps and no leading



David