UJ Pirogue update

[VTFogg]

Hello all,

Here's an update and a couple of pictures. We dry fitted everything, and last night I epoxied the stem and stern on.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283 ... ils002.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283 ... ied001.jpg

Hopefully I can get the ribs epoxied to the sides tonight, and then epoxy the outer rub rails on. As Chuck suggested, I am using one piece,16' x 1 3/8 x 1/4" trim for the rails. I understand that 2" or 3" sections are used as spacers on the inside. Can you tell me if I should cut the inner rail into sections and butt them up to the ribs, or is there a way to clear the ribs and use a one piece inner rub rail?

Thanks - VTFogg

 

[stevesteve]

Hi VTFogg,

Looks like you're catching me up (not actually as I have done som lassing and you've got that to come (he he).

Here is an earlier post while I was planning and scheming:
http://www.neilbank.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2901&highlight=
I am now planning to move the spacers (compared to the pics in that post) by cutting a notch out of the lower edge of the blue block and then set it over the rib end so that they match up and don't spoil the pattern of the spacers. I guess that's boat vanity!

 

[oldsparkey]

I have done it several ways. Butting them against the ribs , trimming the ribs so the side rails go over them and even sanding the top part of the ribs down so they are below the rail but just touching it.

It just depends on how you want them on the boat.

If you cut the spacers on an angle \___/ \___/ \___/ With the narrower part towards the bottom of the boat , you will save a little weight and make it quicker to dump any water out of the boat when it gets in there , like Rain water while out camping. If the spacer is cut at 2 1/2 inches then I space them about that far apart from top side to top side.

The last one I made I did the cuts at 45 degrees. Jack told me he does the same but then he cuts ( drills) out part of the center in each one to even save more weight. It would create a series of minor air pockets all along the top of the boat since they are sealed on both sides by the side boards and then the inside rail.

Chuck.

 

[Kayak Jack]

Geometrical shape of the spacers is more to satisfy the pernicious thinking of the builder than anything else. Spacers can vary from triangles to rectangles to circles. You are constructing a box beam with the spacers in the middle, an inwale (or out wale if you screw up) on one side, and the boat hull completing the sandwich on the other surface of the spacers. This beam is STRONG.

The ventilated gunnel provides:
1. a good strength to weight ratio;
2. side drains for excess rain water (in case you ever camp with Chuck);
3. a good way to drain swamp water (in case you ever paddle with Chuck);
4. and a good place to tie in camp gear (in case you ever camp with an adult).

I didn't do a good job of sanding mine nice and smooth before installing them. That was a mistake. Get them smooth as a school ma'rm's leg before you glue them in.

 

[VTFogg]

Hi there Steve, Chuck, and Jack,

Steve, I think I'm quite a bit behind you, and I know you have a much more complex project than since you made your own stems. A nice piece of work. Thanks for showing us all.

My middle son just removed all the screws from the stem and stern a bit ago. She's still together! I used 1x#8 wood screws which have a fairly thick shank. I don't like the large holes they leave. I 'll certainly be able to fill them, but I sure wish I had just used drywall screws instead.

A good idea to use spacers with a 45 degree angle. I had planned to use the same 1/4" thick trim for spacers, but now I am planning to cut the ribs back as Steve showed to reduce their thickness to the same as the spacers. It will in effect make a "shelf" out of the ribs on which the inner rail will rest. Do you see any problem using such a thin piece for spacers, and cutting out so much of the rib? - VTFogg

 

[hairymick]

Hi Foggy,
Nice job mate .

I can't see any problem with what you suggest.

 

[Kayak Jack]

Foggy,

I cut 45-45-90 degree triangles, and put the 90 degree corner in. I alternated one pointing up with the hypotenuse even with the bottom of the inwale, then next one reversed with 90 degree corner pointing down and hypotenuse even with top of the gunnel.

Only thing I see about 1/8" is trying to pass a rope through there to lash in camp gear. I don't think you'll retain very much sanity trying that. Strength wise and drain wise, 1/8" is OK.

 

[Scooter]

Lookin' good VT. 8)

I'm unsure whether I'll install inner rub rails. Afraid the weight on this thing will keep adding up to where cartopping is a chore. Guess they can be added later if desired. Luv the way they look.

 

[VTFogg]

Tonight I cut the 45 degree ends on the outer rails and did my final dry fitting. I also cut out the section of the ribs to fit the inner rails. I epoxied one side on and thought I had enough clamps (29) to do both sides at once. No way! I needed them all to get a nice even pressure. Oh well, I used the rest of the epoxy to seal the rest of the inside. I used a plastic wall scraper for this, and it seems to work quite well although I will probably use a low nap roller when I start using cloth. Here's some pictures:

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283 ... -17-07.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283 ... -07004.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283 ... rrails.jpg

I'll be epoxying the outer rail on the other side in the morning. My question to you is, should I then install the inner rails with spacers? Or, should the inner rail be installed after clothing the inside?

Thanks - VTFogg

 

[hairymick]

Mate, I would cloth the inside first but I don't think it matters much.
your boat is looking good mate.

 

[oldsparkey]

It is easier to do the glassing of the inside before the inside rails are put on. This way you don't have to work around them , or should I say they are not in the way.

Chuck.

 

[VTFogg]

Thanks Mick and Chuck,

I epoxyied the outer rail on the other side this morning.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283 ... -16-07.jpg

As you can see, it's all clamped and with 18 inches of fresh snow out there, I'm headed out to snowblow the driveway for an hour then up to the mountain to ski with the boys for the day.

What's next? I think that if installing the spacers and inner rails is best done after clothing the inside, then I am now ready to flip it and to start cutting the bottom. Before I do that, I'm going to read up on some of the posts you have all made regarding the tricks and details to doing that well.

I've got to say, that this is a really enjoyable project so far. I really enjoy the change of pace after coming home from the office. We're already planning the next one!

VTFogg

 

[bearridge]

As you can see, it's all clamped and with 18 inches of fresh snow out there, I'm headed out to snowblow the driveway for an hour

Dang that Global Coolin'. It iz Bush's fault. :wink:

regards
bearridge
bodine center fer climate studies

I knew I'd been living in Berkeley too long when I saw a sign that said “Free Firewoodâ€Â

 

[keith]

On seedticks post in trip Report / History Lesson, We cut the top of the side ribs off to install the inside top rail ( no spacers ) but we do add a seat rail that is used as a tie down also.

I think you boats look better without the rib stocking through, another option / more work,looking good. Later Keith