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1st time - fairing question

Discussion in 'Pirogues' started by ben_mc, Dec 8, 2017.

  1. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    first off, kudos to all the craftsmen posting their work here. I decided to dive in and start my 1st build, Uncle John's plans.

    my question... what methods/tools do you guys use to 'fair' the bottom to the sides. I have that 1/4" overhang to cut back and wondering what would work best. Surform? belt sander? any suggestions appreciated.
    thanks
    Ben Mc.
     
  2. oldsparkey

    oldsparkey Well-Known Member

    I use a pull saw ( Hand Powered ) and then a sander to fair everything. You have to be careful and take your time with it but it does a good job.

    Chuck.
     
    ben_mc likes this.
  3. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    thanks Chuck.

    followup question, will TitebondIII cure in the SNOW?!?!?! :) crazy fat snow for south LA today!
     
  4. oldsparkey

    oldsparkey Well-Known Member

    Have no idea about the Titebond curing in snow. Saw on the news this morning about the crazy weather everyone is having. It was snowing on the beaches in Texas this morning and some guy made a 6 ft snowman.
    The cold will hit here ( Florida ) Sunday Morning or so the weather heads are telling us. Right now the AC is running.
    Was planning on camping tonight for my birthday but we are suppose to have heavy rain and winds up to 55 mph tonight and up till noon Saturday. My camping will be here at the house with weather like this.
     
  5. oldbuffpilot

    oldbuffpilot Well-Known Member

    Ben, welcome to this crazy world. The pull saw works fine. I now use a harbor freight multi tool with the flat offset blade for any overhang cut off. Bottoms, decks and such.
    Looks like I'll be visiting kids in La shortly.
    Andy
     
  6. oldbuffpilot

    oldbuffpilot Well-Known Member

  7. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    thanks everyone, i ended up using my oscilating tool with a wood blade. i think exactly what oldbuffpilot suggested. works pretty well to match the angle of the sideboards. now some sanding and waiting for it to warm up to start epoxy...
     
  8. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    oh, and to answer my own question from earlier... NO, titebondIII does not cure correctly in cold temps... had to re-glue the bottom. also used some 18ga. finishing nails to help keep things tight while the glue sets... and stacked some boxes of ceramic tile on top!
     
  9. beekeeper

    beekeeper Well-Known Member

    Welcome to the board. Hope you post some pictures of your build.
    I like Titebond 3. Like most other glues I have used, lower temps = longer drying times. I believe the directions say bonds in 30 min. but wait 24 hrs. before stressing the joint. How long did you wait?
    I'm sure under normal south La. temps. you won't have a problem.

    beekeeper
     
  10. seedtick

    seedtick Well-Known Member

    label on the container says 45 degrees minimum. I'm too old to build boats in 45 degree weather, I prefer closer to 60
     
  11. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    yeah, it was in the low 40s i think when i applied the glue, stacked some weight on top. i think it dipped into the 20s that night. took the weight off next morning(maybe 12 hours later) and the seams gapped pretty much instantly. one of my problems is that the plywood for the floor has a bit of a warp in it, causing it to want to separate from the sideboards. second go round with finishing nails and more weight seems to be handling the warp much better. I'm pretty much done with the structure. just need to do some sanding and then start on the epoxy/glass. I wonder if the wife would mind a 14ft pirogue in the kitchen for a couple days.... never thought i'd have to wait for it to warm up to do anything around here.
    I've got some build pics, i'll try and post.
     
  12. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    scarfing
    [​IMG]

    stems and ribs in... a boat-shaped object!
    [​IMG]

    bottom on, glue and stack!
    [​IMG]

    rub rails... my favorite pic, notice the 3-day-old snow still on the ground in So. Louisiana!
    [​IMG]
     
  13. beekeeper

    beekeeper Well-Known Member

    Without chine logs there may not be enough gluing surface to get a bond without some filler or a perfect joint. Some sloppy fit may be acceptable, as the outside fiberglass and epoxy will connect the sides to the bottom. The filet on the inside will fill in any gaps and allow the inside cloth to seal the joint. UJ builders should know and could advise for sure.
    What kind of plywood?

    beekeeper
     
  14. seedtick

    seedtick Well-Known Member

    whereabouts in south LA are you? close to baton rouge?
     
  15. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    seektick - i live in Denham Springs, work in Baton Rouge.
    beekeeper - it's 1/4" exterior BC. i took the weight off last night and the finishing nails/glue seems to be holding. like you say, just needs to hold till fillet/epoxy/glassing is done.
     
  16. swampwood

    swampwood Well-Known Member

    Why didn't you use thickened epoxy instead of wood glue?

    Swampwood here:
     
  17. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    i didn't have any epoxy on hand yet. and scarfing and gluing the stems and ribs with titebondIII was no problem. It works great, used as directed (i.e. don't try to glue in subfreezing temps ;))
     
  18. oldbuffpilot

    oldbuffpilot Well-Known Member

    Ben, After using wood glue on the bottom of our first uncle johns type of pirogue we decided that epoxy was better suited for the bottom to sides joint. The tight bond worked ok, the epoxy just worked better filling gaps for the 4H kids. Just something to think about for the next one. Thanks for the pictures looks like fun.



    Andy
     
  19. ben_mc

    ben_mc Member

    i'll keep that in mind for the next time, and i'm sure there'll be a next time. I mean, i have to do a chine log design next to compare them, right?
     
  20. swampwood

    swampwood Well-Known Member

    It is all a preference! I like fairing with thickened epoxy. I just like the smooth look. Some like chine logs.
     

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