A question for the strippers out there... | SouthernPaddler.com

A question for the strippers out there...

rpecot

Well-Known Member
Nov 10, 2006
406
0
Katy, TX
This weekend is already booked, but the following weekend I will probably start ripping the strips for my canoe. So tonight I did a test run with some pine I had laying around the garage. The ripping part was easy enough.

My question is around milling the bead and cove. My first pass on the bead, I realized I was removing too much material. That was easy enough to correct. When I routed the cove, the edges where paper thin. You can see them here:

I suspect I'm routing too deep into the strip. I could probably nudge my fence back a fraction and get the edge to be a little more stout. Comments? Experience? Tips?

I cut one of the strips into short pieces and glued it up (in the picture). The strips fit well; it sanded nicely. Is this really a concern or am I worrying about nothing?

Russell

P.S. Sorry about the "stripper" joke in the subject line. I guess that part of my life is not so far behind me that it still makes me laugh. Pardon my regression :twisted:

P.P.S. Don't tell my wife. :shock: :lol:
 

islandpiper

Well-Known Member
rpecot: chuck will probably bounce this, but WIRE STRIPPERS reading this forum anyway? (....why are strippers..)


Wire%20Stripper.jpg


Piper
 

Kurt Loup

Well-Known Member
Sep 10, 2003
110
0
Baton Rouge, LA
www.loup-garou.net
Cutting too deep is the problem. Try starting your fence adjustments with it too far away. Cutting too shallow should leave two flats on each edge of the cove. Advance the fence until the flats just disappear. That will leave you with the most meat on the edges. Hope that helps.

Kurt
 

Wannabe

Well-Known Member
Apr 5, 2007
2,645
2
on the bank of Trinity Bay
Russell,
Paper thin edges tell me that you are cutting your strips at 1/4 inch. Those paper thin edges will get damaged and that will not make you a happy boy. Cut your strips at slightly over 1/4 inch and when you cove the strip there will be a little thicker edge that will not be as easly damaged. As you glue the strips together the thicker edges will create little ridges which will dissapear really fast when you start sanding the hull. Work out how much thicker the strips need to be cut with the pine. Won't take much. When it is where you want it lock your fence down and don't try to reset it. Saw all your strips at one sitting so all of them are identical. Different thickness strips will play havoc in fairing the hull.
Have fun and good luck.
Bob
 

JEM

Well-Known Member
oldsparkey said:
:lol: :lol: :lol: Ya sure know how to get a persons attention. YES.. We have links to other sites on here all the time , it is called sharing information. Especially if you find that site has lots of good info about building boats.

Chuck.

It's on my site that I don't allow sharing certain links. It's mostly because of a couple companies that I don't think a reputable. Also don't want direct links to my competetion.
 

hairymick

Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2005
2,107
2
Queensland, Australia
G'day Russell,

You probably know this mate, but I would also recommend installing feather boards to your router table fence - to hold your strips firmly down in place while cutting the bead & cove.
 

rpecot

Well-Known Member
Nov 10, 2006
406
0
Katy, TX
hairymick said:
G'day Russell,

You probably know this mate, but I would also recommend installing feather boards to your router table fence - to hold your strips firmly down in place while cutting the bead & cove.

Look in the background of the image above :wink:
 

Too Busy

Well-Known Member
Apr 1, 2008
68
0
Summerville, SC
I never went the bead and cove route. It just seemed lik too much time at the router table to me.
when I built several strip built boats I found a lumber yard that sold western red cedar that was S4S (sanded 4 sides) I ripped my strips to 1/4 inch and when I was setting strips in place just one or 2 swipes with the block plane yielded a nice fit.

You've all seen pics of my boats.