The day started out right when I found this in my mailbox:
I'm using ash for the shaft. I had milled one large board into two halves that I will hollow out to save a little on weight, then glue together. Luckily for me, I was able to get three halves out of that board because the first one didn't come out so good. As I said earlier, I'm a little rusty and it showed.
I marked out the area I wanted to hollow and set up my router. First one when well:
Then I started on the second half...
It didn't get any better after that:
When the router bit, it must have nudged my fence. I didn't think to re-check it. Having that hollowed out section off center will make the wall thickness too thin (if not non-existent).
Needless to say I was a little peeved. After an hour bike ride through the neighborhood, I've calmed down a little. Guess I will be heading back to Houston Hardwoods before I can finish this job.
If you have a table saw you could make a birds mouth shaft. Come to think about it I think Ron did one here while back. There is a formula you can use to size the strips with. You can even make a tapered shaft for a sail mast or whatever. I will try to find that. It's squrrelled away somewhere.
Thats the calculator I use to, have now made a number of birdsmouth items from paddle shafts to 25' main mast. 1st attempt was somewhatt frustrating, but with practice it's become almost fun (sadistic).
I went' back to the lumber yard and got two pieces of milled ash, 3/4"x1-1/2"x10'. In the aftermath of my earlier screw-up, I recalled that I had built a router mortise jig for a "future" project. It would be perfect for this application. So, consciously trying NOT to rush myself, I laid out my lines on the new boards and prepped for the router. It went very well today.
Not a great pic of the jig:
And the result:
The plan is to trim down about 1/8" on either side of the wall thickness you see there. The paddle shaft will be about 1-1/4" diameter. I left 20" at each end un-routed for the paddle faces, as well as about 2" - 4" (depending on the final length) in the middle for when I attach the paddle ferrule.
Russ, if this is to be a kayak paddle, consider not making the shaft round. A slightly egg shaped shaft feels a lot better in the hands, and is self-centering for blade angle in practical use. Aim the egg shape to lie "flat" in your hands. The long axis of the egg lies at a 90 degree angle to the vertical of the blades.
Trying this again. After typing up an update, my 6 yo came over and closed my browser window before I could hit submit. :evil:
Anyway... slow progress. I glued up the paddle face laminations. That's maple, cherry, mahogany, and cherry again. Second pic is with mineral spirits.
After you've glued up the material and it's setting in clamps is not the ideal time to start thinking about how you are going to cut up the wood. I don't have a bandsaw. The block of wood is about 4" thick. Problem. After thinking about it a while, I realized I have three things I could utilize to get the job done. 1. A pull saw. 2. A sanding station. 3. Time.
Here's the block, with the paddle face profiles marked up and some progress with the pull saw.
One piece cut and sanded.
Two pieces sanded and placed along side the paddle shaft.