Apostle Islands, Northern Wisconsin | SouthernPaddler.com

Apostle Islands, Northern Wisconsin

nobucks

Well-Known Member
I just got back Friday night from the Apostle Islands in Northern Wisconsin. We spent four days paddling the islands on Lake Superior and put over forty miles under our keels. You can see the complete route that we took on the map below.

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Day 1:

After checking in at the Apostle Island's Visitor's Center in Bayfield, Wisconsin, to pick up our camping permits, we drove up to Sand Point, where we broke out the tools in the parking lot and finished the deck rigging on Mark K.'s kayak.
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We finally put in between 3:30 and 4pm for the long paddle to Rocky Island, which was our first campsite for the week. Here are Mark H. and Mark K. on Sand Pt. Beach getting ready to leave.
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Mark H. paddles out of Sand Bay, rounding Sand Point. Since he wasn't able to get his kayak skinned in time for the trip, he borrowed a fiberglass Pintail kayak from Don G. The fit was a bit tight and, as a result made for a little unsteady ride for most of the trip. He handled some rough water, though, and never capsized.
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An immature bald eagle on the rocks on Sand Point. This was one of six that we saw total for the trip.
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Mark and Mark on the crossing to Bear Island, where we took our rest stop on the way to Rocky Island.
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The famous Raspberry Island Lighthouse. Had we left in th emorning as planned, this would have been our first rest stop. This is the closest we came to it.
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Is that a ghost ship? No, it's the Pride of Baltimore, a tall ship that was sailing the area.
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During the corssing, Mark H. began to cramp up and became nauseous due to dehydration. We rafted up and I gave him the last of my water and he was able to make it to Bear Island, where we pumped some water through the water filter and rehydrated.

Here, the sun beams shine down on Mark as he closes in on his rest stop.
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Our rest stop on the southern tip of Bear Island. Originally we had wanted to camp here, but when we called for reservations the week before, there was no room for us there.
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Rested up, we made the crossing from Bear Island to Rocky Island. We had also planned to visit Devil's Island, but this was as close as we came to it.
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This is me with Devil's Island in the background.
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The sun sets behind Mark H. as we draw closer to Rocky Island. We arrived at the island just at dusk, with very little idea of where to go to find our campsite. As you can see from the map, we went up and down th ebeach a couple of times looking for Campsite #7. We finally found it, right next to #6.
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After paddling up and down the beach a couple of times, we finally left two of the kayaks at the dock. After we found our site, I hiked back to the kayaks and hooked the towline to Mark K.'s and paddled back with both kayaks, while he stayed at camp and started a campfire.

Mark H. cooked up the first of a number of great, hot meals for us. He gets my vote for permanent camp cook.

I'll post more pics tomorrow.

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Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
86
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
Nice maps and nice pics, Joel. Looks like you guys had a good time. What was water temp?


"The legend lives on from the Chippewa down,
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumi.
And the big lake, it's said, never gives up her dead,
When the skies of November grow gloomy."
 

bearridge

Well-Known Member
Mar 9, 2005
3,092
4
way down yonder
Good goin' Joel,

What a way ta start the day! How hot wuz it? Hammocks? Sorry Mark H. fergot ta waterlog hizself before he set out. Besides grits, what did he fix? How much water did ya'll tote? Did it taste good after the filter? Did ya'll stay out frum the islands on purpose? So one of the islands wuz booked solid. How many folks wuz on it? Women? Gymnasts? Gilligan?

Sorry fer the pop quiz. :wink:

regards
bearridge

ps The water musta warmed up a heap. Ya didnt wear yer stylish space suit.
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
Good Friends , Good Weather, Great Boats , a Beautiful Sunset , Ideal Camping and delicious meals plus the time to do it. As they say , "It doesn't get any better then that". :D

Then to top it off the Pride of Baltimore sure looked like a ghost ship the way it was floating above the water , I know an optical illusion but still spooky. After a beverage or two you could think it was the Flying Dutchman. :wink:

Chuck.
 

nobucks

Well-Known Member
People tell me that I'm getting old, I just don't feel it. :wink:

We would have been sipping cocktails in camp well before evening had we started on time. But, we had to lit. finish building Mark K.'s kayak before we could go. That set the tone for the rest of our week, as we made camp in the dark at least one more time and came back late to camp most of the time.

Meals were mostly foil packets of chicken, tuna, or salmon, in some variety of Lipton rice or soup creations. A couple of packets of meat with two or three packets of rice or noodles filled our hungry bellies, washed down with wine or bourbon.

The other guys had bottles of water on their deck and I had a CamelBack. Mark H. just drank too much coffee before we left and not enough water. Other than the filter and what we had on deck, we carried no water. The filter is the way to go, esp. with a Lake as clean as Superior. It tasted better than any tap water I've ever had.

No gymnasts, but on Day 2 there were some bikini women on Rocky Island. Each island has ten or so campsites on it, each with a firepit, a tent pad, a picnic table, and an outhouse. Bear Island is a wilderness camping zone, so none of the above, but apparently they limit how many are allowed there.

We touched only a few islands on purpose, planning a rest break every three to four miles. Otherwise, the shortest distance between two points is a straight line, so that was our rational there.

Water temp was about 65*F most days, so I wore my shorty wetsuit.
 

nobucks

Well-Known Member
Tuesday, Day 2:

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With just a quick one mile crossing from Rocky Island to South Twin Island, the second day was an easy one. Mark K. had only slept forty minutes in the last twenty four hours, so we decided to let him sleep in. He had done a marathon drive from St. Louis to his home in Chicago to pick up his kayak and gear, then up to Eau Claire, Wisconsin, to Mark H.'s house, then up to Bayfield to paddle fourteen miles.

Here's 2/3's of our camp. I was the first up, rekindled the fire, then jumped in the Lake to wash off and wake up. Breakfast was two packets of oatmeal and some tuna.
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Here, Mark K., also known as "Capt. Caveman," emerges from his sleep.
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Here's the entire camp. There was an outhouse behind the camera, shared by our camp and the next site, which was vacant.
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Mark H., aka, "Hambo," on the one mile crossing.
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Caveman on the crossing. The water was a little bit lively and became moreso the closer we got to South Twin Island. By the time we got there small breakers were hitting the shore. Caveman and I played in the waves a little bit on the other side while Hambo scouted out the campsite. We were right up from the island dock, where Maxi the Black Lab and her owners were camped in their powerboat.
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As noted, we had some time on Tuesday, so we went rock picking, looking for agates, ate lunch, then headed around the island to look for more rocks. Here I am headed for the north side of the island. I let Hambo try out the Greenland paddle, so I used his Euro blade.
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Caveman and I in our Madeline 16's on a mirror calm early evening headed around the island. Note how shallow it was there. Little did I know...
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Headed back to camp. We went most of the way around the island, then turned around and paddled all the way back. Had we been paying attention to the map, it would have been shorter to finish circumnavigating the island.
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Paddling off into the sunset.
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Caveman after doing some rolling practice. I stood by for a bow rescue, but he didn't need it. He did three rolls, two on one side and one on the other. I'll post some video of that later.
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What a peaceful scene, until...I hit a submerged rock right after this pic was taken, and high centered my kayak on a huge boulder. After frantically trying to avoid falling sideways off of it, I was able to spin the kayak around and slid off, leaving a lot of white vinyl on the rock. There were no holes, though, just jangled nerves.
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See how many faces you can find in the smoke.
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The firepit.
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tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
Joel
Great report and photos. I am amazed at how different the food is on the trips posted from north to south on this and other forums.
Ron
 

bearridge

Well-Known Member
Mar 9, 2005
3,092
4
way down yonder
That wuz a mitey fine trip report, with all the pichurs 'n maps. Thanks fer takin' the time 'n truble ta give us hope that cooler days will come callin' agin.
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
tx river rat said:
Joel
Great report and photos. I am amazed at how different the food is on the trips posted from north to south on this and other forums.
Ron

" Meals were mostly foil packets of chicken, tuna, or salmon, in some variety of Lipton rice or soup creations. A couple of packets of meat with two or three packets of rice or noodles filled our hungry bellies, washed down with wine or bourbon. "


Whats the difference ?????? , we always have some Bourbon with us on any of the southern rivers , it is a must. Heck we double the amount for a Yankee River and cut back on the Vienna's. :lol:

Chuck.
 

tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
Joel
Hey that wasn't a criticism just an observation . I notice the same thing about foods as you travel around this country.
Ron
 

nobucks

Well-Known Member
Oh, I know, I didn't take it as criticism. I've noticed the same thing.

Wednesday, Day 3:

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The day started out a little breezy, with a bit of chop on the Lake. NOAA predicted that the waves would die down later in the day, so we decided to wait a couple of hours before we launched. Hambo acquired a new pet while we were waiting. The night before and that day, whenever he would go down by the Lake, a goose would swim in and follow him around. We named it George.
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We visited with Wes and his wife and Maxi the dog, as they prepared to motor back to Bayfield to pick up some ice. After a cigar, we packed up and hit the water. We planned to go for Stockton Island by way of Ironwood as our rest stop.
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It turns out that this worked out very well. By the time we go to Ironwood Island, a thunderstorm had come up behind us.
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After we landed on the beach, Caveman decided to try his hand at rolling the fiberglass kayak, tried once, missed, went down, tried again, missed again. He pulled his head out of the water and said, "Help me!" We would have been glad to, but we were on shore and he was in ten feet of water. He wet exited and I hopped in my kayak and paddled out and towed him in.
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By that time there was some lightning flashing, so we grabbed the cookpot, some coffee, and a tent and prepared to wait out the storm. We didn't need the tent, but we did build a fire, made some coffee, and smoked another stogie.
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The clouds and lightning passed, but the waves stayed up for another hour, then it calmed down and we paddled out again, this time for a four mile crossing to Stockton Island.
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Leaving after taking a break on Stockton Island.
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After we left the beach on the north side of Stockton Island, we headed for the east side of the island, with its sea caves and sea stacks.
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The sea caves and stacks were amazing, but, at the time we had other things to worry about. There was a BIG thunderstorm headed our way, moving very rapidly, according to the radio, with high winds, brief showers, and dangerous lightning. We had to get off the water. The problem was, this is a three mile section of cliffs, with no beaches.

It didn't make us any more comfortable when a nasty cloud, two shades from turning green, rolled over the top of the cliff.
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I prayed, "Lord, give us a place to get off the water!" Then I turned a corner and saw this beach. There was no shelter, but at least there were no overhanging rocks. We pulled up on the beach and broke out our rain gear.
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We were weighing our options for camping here on the beach or making a run for Julian Bay when a rainbow appeared. Hambo said, "There must be sun somewhere back there!" Sure enough, patches of blue sky began to appear to the north as the storm headed south and east.
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The rainbow turned to a double rainbow, then was flirting with a triple and quadruple rainbow, although they never fully materialized.
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When we got back on the water the rainbow stayed with us for most of the rest of evening, until the sun began to set. We thought about marking the location on the GPS so we could come back for the pot of gold on Michigan Island, but we weren't able to key in the coordinates in time.
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The remnants of a storm. Cool clouds.
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Paddling into the sunset, yet again.
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We made camp at 10pm, in the dark.
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Enjoying a supper of wine, bourbon, and chicken jambalaya after dark.
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nobucks

Well-Known Member
Thursday, Day 4:

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Camp on Stockton Island. I was sleeping in the eight foot Eureka yellow sarcophagus. It wasnt' too bad, except that you couldn't sit up inside it.
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The four mile crossing to Madeline was the roughtest of any of the days we had paddled. Currents and waves funnel between the various islands and meet in the middle, making for a very confused sea with one to two foot waves. Throw some wakes from powerboats in the mix and you have a fun ride!
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Our host on Madeline Island, Jay, showed up a little ways down the beach, so I decided to paddle over sit-on-top style.
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Transportation for three kayak from the landing site on the north side of the island back to Jay's property near LaPointe.
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Does it look like I got a little bit of sun this week?
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We washed up and then hit the pub for some steak and beer and ended the evening at Tom's Twice Burned Down Cafe for live music and more beer.

Pics later, plus, the ferry ride back across to Bayfield.
 

bearridge

Well-Known Member
Mar 9, 2005
3,092
4
way down yonder
Gee.....each one haz been better'n the one before. I loved them rock pichurs....rocks 'n water, water 'n rocks.....dont git no better. But Joel.......tell Hambo ta ditch that do rag. Git him a stylish hat 'er a cap with a farm machine company name on it. It dont have ta be a sombrero 'er a rice paddy hat like mine......how bout a straw cowboy hat? :wink:

regards
bearridge

ps Thanks ta you, Ron 'n a cloudy day with a inch of rain, I had a swell time.

Pokemon (n), a Rastafarian proctologist.