Beckson plate install

[Obie]

I'd like to install a Beckson screw-in access plate to a wood bulkhead in my boat and not have the plastic show---the bulkhead is 1/8" luan plywood and has 1/4" strips on top of it. But how do i mount the plate to the back of the plywood? Can i just use epoxy--will that be strong enuf? I don't wish to have screws showing either, if possible. I've looked at a lot of entries on this board about the plates, but it doesn't show how to mount the plate.
Thanks !

 

[oldsparkey]

The epoxy will not .. I repeat ... will not stick to the plastic no matter how hard you try.

You could make your own from wood ......... Just cutout two of everything. Like I did with this hatch in the bulkhead.

Then use the thinner one as a lip behind the main one.

Then you have it done....... The one at the top of the picture is the one for the forward area being epoxy saturtaed.

From CLC Shop tips........ For the plastic ones.
http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/shoptips_dayhatch.php

I sure hope someone come up with a better idea for you to do..........Especially on the way you want to do it. :wink:

Chuck.

 

[JEM]

I'm not sure about what you mean by not having screws show. Or did you mean to mount it using no screws?

It could be done but before I sketch up a bunch of stuff, I'm hoping you'll expand on your idea a little.

 

[Obie]

i'll try and describe it a little better.
after seeing a few pics of such a mount i wanted to do the same thing and ordered the access plates and, to put the cart before the horse, now i have to figure out how to mount the plates.
I am building a canoe--- a lot like the piroques. i wanted to put an air chamber/storage bin at each end of the boat.
and i don't want the plastic to show---i want to put strips over it.
the way i saw it mounted was that the base of the plate was mounted to 1/8" ply which had strips glued over it(on the other side)
then the hole was cut out(the size of the hole in the base of the plate)and the round wood strip cut-out was then glued/screwed to the plastic hatch cover.
so it goes from the end of the boat
bow/stern---hatch base and screw-in access plate---1/8" plywood piece--wood strips--and a handle was glued/screwed to the outside of the round plate(that was covered with strips).
does that make sense.
i'd rather not use screws, just mount the base onto the ply---ii thought i could use glue/epoxy, but apparently not.
i'm going to put a deck over the ends too.
i've tried to contact the person that posted the pics(on the kayak forum) but no reply as yet.
thanks for the help !

 

[Obie]

addendum

please look at this site for a pic of the plate i want to mount
http://www.karkauai.com/outrigger_canoe.html

thanks !

 

[JEM]

oh ok.

I have no earthly idea how to do that short of making you're own hatches. Plastic and epoxy don't stick together very well.

 

[oldsparkey]

I see what you are talking about ..... My guess is that he will have to let you know how it was done.

He might of used what I call a quarter turn method on that ... put in place and then give it a quarter turn to lock in.
I am just guessing at that.

Chuck.

 

[JEM]

Looks like I see a couple screws in that picture. Maybe he made that face plate and screwed it to the actual plastic cover.

 

[Obie]

you were right Matt. he used screws in addition to epoxy.
He used a Beckson deckplate in each of the bulkheads. Instead of mounting the flange on the outside of the bulkhead, he glued-epoxied/screwed it on the back of the bulkhead and glued-epoxied/screwed the cutout(from the opening cut for the hatch) to the plate so that the grain lines up when closed. That way you will be able to make the screw lid (with the cutout attached) flush with the deck.
hope that helps anyone interested. seems like a nice way to do a flat hatch.

Obie

 

[JEM]

It does look mighty spiffy.

Is this the same boat that was built and shipped to Hawaii and was to be blessed by some Chief in a ceremony?

 

[Obie]

Matt,
it's the one, but it didn't make it out of the states before it(named "Ke Kalakupua--"The Magic") was damaged by shippers(see his site for pics) ouch !----i don't know the outcome.
thank you for your help.

Obie

 

[Windyaker]

Beckson deck plates installation

Obie

I installed two Beckson deck plates back in 2000 on plywood. As I remember Beckson used two kinds of plastic to make their plates. The plates I had with the screw on clear see through lids couldn’t be used with epoxy. I used silicone to fasten mine on with out screws or bolts and they have held up fine now for 6 years.

John

 

[sheena's dad]

Obie,

Correct me if I'm wrong.... what you're thinking of is a bulkhead with a hatch cover, right?

JEM,

what I think he's describing, if I'm correct, would be hatch way, cut somewhat like Sparkey's photos show, with a plywood hatch maybe held in place by inside cabinet catches... an enclosed hinge something like what is used on a jewelry box (just a bit heavier duty) should work...

I'd use a bit think would for the hatch, rabbeting the edges to fit inside the opening....

Dad

 

[JEM]

the method sounds feasable. Question is will the seal stay sealed?

 

[sheena's dad]

JEM,

Been playin' with the idea a little bit... the seal was something I got to thinking about...

Right, now, I'm playing with a two drawer lock trying to work out maintaining a seal.... Do you know what I'm tryin' to do? Trying to work up a sketch, now, so I can work it out.... Pretty basic sketch stuff, right now... usually about all I go with when I'm building or workin' things out.
Right now, it looks like it should hold a seal....

Main thing I'd worry about, though, is heat build-up inside the airspace when not in use... know what I mean?

Dad

 

[Kayak Jack]

I'm not a proponent of trying to build an airtight space in a wooden boat. In fact, I'm an opponent of it. Several reasons.

First off, I think it folly to think that we can seal up all the approaches and cracks and seams in a space, and KEEP them sealed up.

Second, if a space does get sealed off, it will expand and shrink in warm-cool cycles, and in daily air pressure changes. This natural flexing alone will soon or eventually undo the airtight seal we think we have achieved.

A minor leak, the very kind you can expect and ther very kind that will go undetected, will allow a chamber to breathe air in and out. MOISTURE WILL COLLECT during this process. ROT WILL DEVELOP after that process.

I believe it much wiser to construct a chamber with a drain down along the keel line where water can drain from the chamber should it ever enter. I think it much smarter to accomodate Nature than to try thwarting her.

Just my thoughts.

 

[sheena's dad]

Jack...

I'm in total agreement with you, there.

I worked up a couple of ways of doing it: one (an idea I got from Sparkey) that is a quarter-turn hatch and the other, which I still have to work the bugs out of, my "2-drawer lock" idea in my last post. Still, both seal up too well for my comfort to install them in a wooden boat of any kind... at least until I can work out a way for the compartment to be water tight but still be able to "breathe".

Obie's question sounded like an interesting puzzle to figure out while I wait for Sheena to come home this weekend so we can build on the 'noe.
Just the kind of thing I like doin' in my spare time...

Dad