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Hi! New Builder

What adhesive to use in a pirogue?


  • Total voters
    3
#1
Well I'm about to try my hand at building the LSU pirogue design as my first boat project. I got all the wood to do the job. I've read a number of threads where some people say you don't even need any adhesives if you do the joints right. Well, I'm not there yet.

I am looking at using this: https://www.fgci.com/item/137704/KIT-Laminating-Epoxy-Resin-1-2-Gallon-Curing-Agent-2-1-Ratio-/

But I'm wondering if I can use something else for all the joints like gorilla glue, liquid nails or something else that's water proof.

I know I'm opening this up but what are your thoughts?

Guillaume
a displaced Cajun in the Beautiful Lake of the Ozarks.
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,394
13
#3
Welcome!
I think the L.S.U. pirogue has chine logs and will not "require" fiberglass. I like Titebond 3.
If you chose to fiberglass the boat or if it is used to tape the seams then you may as well use epoxy.
I would guess your survey will indicate epoxy as the most used because most boats built today incorporate fiberglass.
I used Gorilla glue once, but didn't like the clean up issues. I believe the Liquid Nails was the glue that failed when I was laminating hardwood strips for a batter board. May not be an issue for you.
 
Likes: Guillaume
#6
Welcome!
I think the L.S.U. pirogue has chine logs and will not "require" fiberglass. I like Titebond 3.
If you chose to fiberglass the boat or if it is used to tape the seams then you may as well use epoxy.
I would guess your survey will indicate epoxy as the most used because most boats built today incorporate fiberglass.
I used Gorilla glue once, but didn't like the clean up issues. I believe the Liquid Nails was the glue that failed when I was laminating hardwood strips for a batter board. May not be an issue for you.
I wasn't thinking of using fiberglass unless it starts to sink after I throw it in the water. :)

Thanks for the welcome.
 
#8
Well, it's a start. Wanted to get everything cut and fit together before I epoxy and it looks like I'm going to have to use some fiberglass to fill it out. On fella said to cut the batons at 20 degrees and then "The angle slop will point towards the center. That is a must!." But I must have put in the wrong direction because it is shooting above the bottom so I may have to turn it around. Well I order epoxy next week and I need to go buy some fiberglass. :)
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNLwsj_E-FQYCeVlZ2c8LLozHPuAjxCoePLC_O7
 
Last edited:

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
9,763
29
74
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
#12
It depends on the air temperature , the hotter it is the quicker it cures. Not sure what you mean about harden ????
The rule of thumb I worked by.........
If it is to apply a 2nd coat , usually 24 hours.
If it's over 48 hours then it needs a light sanding before applying more epoxy.
I have test paddled a boat only three days after glassing it. Then sanded and varnished it.
If you are asking about 100 cured , it takes about a month for it to completely set up.
 
Likes: Guillaume
#13
I'm thinking about how long before I can start putting the sides and the bottom together without breaking the bonds between the boards I'm fiberglassing together.

That is to say each side of the hull consist of two boards epoxied and fiberglassed together and the two parts of the bottom epoxied and fiberglassed together.

We're supposed to be in the mid-50's at night to upper 70's for the next few days.
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
9,763
29
74
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
#14
Mid 50's at night and 70's during the day , Here in Florida we call that winter.
It sames the speed of the epoxy you are using would determine the time needed. Slow , Medium or fast epoxy all have different time limits. It's not scientific but one way to find out is to lightly touch the epoxy with your finger and see if it's not sticky.
I used Medium because of the heat we have most of the year so that is what I am use to.
I used butt joints and glassed each one on both sides with a piece of glass about 5 inches wide and the length on the butt joint. I waited 24 hours before moving the sides or any pieces which were epoxied and joined.
 
Likes: Guillaume

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,394
13
#16
Well, it's a start. Wanted to get everything cut and fit together before I epoxy and it looks like I'm going to have to use some fiberglass to fill it out. On fella said to cut the batons at 20 degrees and then "The angle slop will point towards the center. That is a must!." But I must have put in the wrong direction because it is shooting above the bottom so I may have to turn it around. Well I order epoxy next week and I need to go buy some fiberglass. :)
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNLwsj_E-FQYCeVlZ2c8LLozHPuAjxCoePLC_O7
Question
I thought I responded to this several days ago. I don't see it here. Did it not post or was it removed for some reason?

beekeeper