Intro and a couple ??



Hey all: I am Bob (Bellybuster) from Wasaga Beach Ontario Canada. I have been reading this forum for quite some time and have decided to jump in with both feet.
The Uncle John's kit is on the way as we speak. I do however have a few questions.
I only plan on taping the seams for my first Pirogue, an ideas on how much tape and epoxy to order for a 15' boat?
Is Noahs the best prices in Ontario? And;
Has anyone ever mounted an electric trolling motor thru the hull on a pirogue??
Thanks Folks....I shall start a thread when I start cutting

1 more question...... has anyone ever put "an item" under the epoxy??? Being a Canuck, I'd like to place a real maple leaf under the epoxy. Do you think it would work?

a Bald Cypress

Well-Known Member
May 7, 2007
Northwest Louisiana

I agree with the square transom for the motor.

As far as the leaf. Be sure to encapsulate it. A layer of epoxy both under and over the leaf should preserve it for the life of the boat.

It may however try to fall [either through the bottom or, perhaps try to roll the boat over so it can fall out] in the fall trying to drop to the ground as maple leafs are known to do after the one day of summer up thar,


Well-Known Member
Dec 7, 2007
I ordered the 6qt kit of resin and hardener from RAKA. I would recommend you glass the inside and out, your boat will last a lot longer. Good luck wit your project!


Thanks guys
Good advice on the leaf falling there Baldy....I shall install it with at least a 6" spike to stop the falling


Sheetsrep....does RAKA have a distributer in Canada???
I have found another source for epoxy in

thinkin about it now, I have enough ply to build 2 pirogues, the square transom would give me a spare stem for the second one, would just have to build second set of ribs or maybe try stich and glue for the second one....Hmmmmm an animal has been officially created


Well-Known Member
Having built just a "short stack" of UJ pirogues, let me suggest this:

Build your pirogue as designed but add a frame where you want the square transom, and screw in some braces to hold it square, etc.....i'd put them on the INSIDE face.

then, after getting the gunwales and sides bent and in place with the stern member holding it all in the right shape.....and the outside glassed or the seams taped, THEN AND ONLY THEN cut the extra part off the stern, leaving you with the transom frame in place.

i think that trying to hold, bend, and keep accurate, the sides without the stern held in place will be trouble. Dry screw the sides to the pointed shape designed and you can pull the screws and use it all over again, there is always a place for scrap and the UJ rib connector/pointed transom is valuable.

Agree? ( )
Disagree? ( )

Don't know? ( )
Don't Care? ( )

Too early in the day to argue? ( )



Well-Known Member
Sep 11, 2007
That sounds like a good plan, especially the dry sew part. I always wondered how you wold make all that work.

Although the UJ skiff kit has a square transom but only uses one stem. So I guess there are different ways of doing things.


Well-Known Member
Jul 22, 2006
Denham Springs, LA
dunno about that piper,

if you can bend to a stem piece, why can't you bend to a transom and not cut and throw away plywood and epoxy.

maybe i missed something in your idea


I've been thinkin about it and I think I will dry screw (did I just say that???) to the second stem piece and add the transome, although, I think I will add the transome and cut the tail off prior to glassing so there is no tape/epoxy waste. That stuff is expensive. I will however fillet the hull and transom prior to cutting.
I think if I use the second stem at the rear prior to installing a transom piece, it will help with the shape of the boat. The second boat will not have the luxury of a second stem though but I should have it down pat after the first one.
Funny how I've just now decided to build 2 boats


Well-Known Member
you need width on the bottom in the back to hold your weight up. if your beam bottom is say 24 inches, make your transom botton about 20 or 22 inches and cut the transom sides at the angle you want the boat sides to be, say something around 20 degrees. try to give that UJ some shape. later Keith


Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
Central , Florida
I elongated one of the UJ Pirogues to 18 feet , then added the transom and sawed off the end. Made it flush and glassed it. The other option would to be to use a arm across the stern of the boat , Or near where you are going to sit like the folks in canoes do.

One person just attached ( clamped) the trolling motor to the side of the pirogue and used it that way. There are a lot of ways to do it.

The leaf will work being epoxied , I do it with my business cards and then epoxy them inside the boats I make to show ownership. I seal them in epoxy on the work bench ( plenty of plastic sheets under them) and when they are ready then into the boat. ( it is a great way to use the left over mixed epoxy)



thanks for all the advice folks....I'll start a new thread with pics as soon as I get started


Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2005
Queensland, Australia
G'day Bob and welcome aboard from this side of the drain. :D

I can't add to this discussion, I haven't yet built a square sterner, but I will tell you this. The pirogues are great boats mate. I just love mine.

The UJ is quick and very easy to build with only 2 sheets of ply. I would tape inside and out - at least and also apply at least two sealer coat of resin to all ply surfaces as a minimum. This will protect your timber and strengthen it.

I use West Systems 105 Resin with Special Purpose 207 hardener. - truly beautiful stuff to use and NO AMMINE BLUSH. There should be an agent in Canada. They are good people who know and believe in their product.

I would recommend you dry your leaf before epoxying it. :D


Active Member
Jul 8, 2007
Upstate New York

Welcome to the group (?) I would call RAKA or go to their website. They have everything you need for the UJ kit. They can tell you how much tape you will need. I taped my UJ kit on the inside chines and on the outside. I did not use cloth on the bottom or sides. It is very strong and has held up well.

Also, back in the fall, Martin in Fonthill also raised the question about resin being very expensive, but I don't remember how he solved the problem. Maybe if he sees this reply he can answer or you can search for his threads. It was back in the Fall of 07.

I live in Rochester, across the lake from Toronto, and if you get to the States maybe you can ship it here, and then pick it up, and avoid the high fees, although I don't know if that is practical.

I was in Midland last winter and don't know how humans live in that cold! Does the ice melt on your lake in the summer??????? or do you have iceburgs year round?




Well-Known Member
tick, for the value of a foot of plywood, i'd much prefer to install and fasten the transom with the side REALLY WANTING to hold on to it, rather than using it for an anchorage point, and HOPING that the sides would stay on it with the bending stress on them.

Much as I respect your opinions and far superior boatbuilding experience I'd still do it this way. Then, when the adhesives were cured out and the screws all set, then I'd trim back to the square transome.

Remember he is going to hang a trolling motor, not a Merc-50......he only needs a 8-9" of transom.



Well-Known Member
the width of the transom is also holding the floor, that is what you need, something to float 200 pounds in the back of the boat, not a 10 pound motor. I can tell you how to get to the water but cant make you drink it. later keith


Well-Known Member
With a vertical transom, placed so that the bottom is left whole, or nearly whole, and the trolling motor control pedal placed where a fellow would usually sit the bit of displacement lost by making the GUNWALES about one foot shorter cannot be a big issue. Personally, i'd build a battery box up by the first frame, and sit as usual forward of the third frame and go from there.

KISK (keep it simple, keith)