Went to an outdoor show today. Boats and bikes were here. Some of your trikes were there. A couple of old fat women were trying them out. They liked the trikes.
Laid back , relaxing , and going down the road.
- Thread starter oldsparkey
- Start date
Kayak Jack said:
So did you try a few of the trikes ????? How about folding ones , quite a few companies make folding trikes and they are nice. Just like a regular trike when assembled but fold into a smaller package for storage when traveling. TerraTrike makes one and Trident Trikes make a whole line of them , competitive priced.
I have to tell a good one on myself.
The wife and I went for a ride , she was on her trike and I was on mine. About half way threw the ride I heard this thumping sound and thought it was from the rear tire on her trike , I would peddle up and along side the the rear of her's and listen then back off and finally realized it was from my left front side and not the rear wheel of her trike.
According to the speed I was peddling I could control the speed of the rubbing sound . Slow down and it slowed down , speed up and it would speed up. When I squeezed the lever for the left side disk brake it would stop. Release the brake and it stopped till I would make a turn ......
Now for the confusing part , turn right and it would go away , turn to the left and here it goes making that sound again.
I checked the disk brake and they were OK , Lifting the left side up and spinning the wheel , here is that sound again. "O" Crap better not ride it for now , park it and take it over to the guy's on Monday This is on a Friday afternoon when all this is going on. No trike to ride over the weekend so it is on the 21 speed two wheeler for those days.
When we got home I called the bike shop and told Mike what was going on and that I figured the left side brake needed a slight adjustment like he did to the right side a few weeks earlier when it was making a whisking sound except the left side was a lot louder . Yep , been down the road with this very thing earlier. There is always a few bugs to work out on a new bike and I guess this is just a part of it. It took him about 2 minutes to correct the problem last time , just a slight brake adjustment.
Put the trike rack on the back of the Jeep and loaded the trike on it and off to the shop on Monday , a hour later I am at the shop. Unload the trike and walk it in the shop. Jason took a look and spun the tire , no sound of any kind...... He went to get a tool to check everything for tightness on the brake assembly when I lifted the left side and turned the tire as if making a left hand turn and spun the tire........
THUNK - THUNK - THUNK as the tire spun around. Big grin on my face ...That's the sound it was making.
Mike was back of the counter and Jason was just starting to walk over with the tool to check everything when Mike smiled and told me.......... It's the brake cable hitting the spokes of the wheel when you turn to the left. When you make a sharp turn at times the cable will get pulled thru the holder on the lower handle bar more then it should and rub against the outside spokes of the wheel.
Before I thought I let out a SOB , then stood there with egg on my face.
They just laughed and told me I was not the 1st person to make that mistake. Yesterday when the wife and I were out for a ride her trike was making the same sound and I asked her to check the left front brake on hers........ she tried the brake and it still made that sound. All she could say was Chit , it will have to go to the shop. I told her to check the break cable and see if it was hitting the spokes and it was , she pulled it back a little and no more sound.
A sharp turn can pull the cable a little thru it's fastener ( zip tie ) so when you turn that little extra amount of cable will hit the inside spokes as they move from the center line in to the trikes side.
Cable routing, security, lubrication, and connections are easy to not get right. I've:
1. Forgotten to reconnect a front brake cable after reinstalling a frontbwheel.
2. Had the handle bars turned one time around, wrapping brske and shift cables around the fork head.
3. Had brake cables out of the little sockets at their end, thus making a brake drag.
4. Let cables get rusty. No repair here - only replacement.
Now, lubing cables and chains is easier for me than it used to be. Street wisdom used to say, "Boil the chain in oil. Wipe off excess oil." Hey, chains aren't french fries. The ONLY part of a chain that needs lubrication is the pin inside each roller. Oil not only reduces friction and wear, it is also a hydraulic cushion as each link first comes into contact with the sprocket.
Now, that lubrication and cushion should be thicker, and high viscosity. But- to get it inside thr roller, and around the pin, it has to be thin and low viscosity. Additionally, we sometimes delay lubing a chain too,long. And, water from puddles or rain can wash away oil. So some residual lubricant is a benefit. Years ago, "Dirt Biker" magazine published an article that solved it all.
An ideal lubrication inside chain rollers is 90 weight oil with powdered graphite blended into it. The oil provides both a hydraulic cushion, and long-lasting lubrication. The powdered graphite extends thst life even further. That's the thick of it, and here's the thin of it. Mix in a bit of gasoline. CAUTION: this is flammable, keep away from heat sources
Get one of those little plastic bottles with a small tube type cap. One that a screw on cap can cover the little, protuding tube. Get a small bearing ball, or a small, clean stone. The ball/stone has to go into the bottle. It will serve as an agitator to keep the grapite mixed into suspension with the oil and gasoline. Into the bottle put: agitator ball, 1/2 teaspoon powdered graphite, 90 weight gear oil to half full, and gasoline to full. Reread the cautionary note above.
You can lube an entire chain while it is installed. Vigorously shake the bottle to thoroughly mix oil and graphite. Apply just one drop to both ends of each roller. Move the chain along so a dry part moves into easy reach. Every few links, reshake the bottle and rattle that agitator to keep the graphite in suspension. When complete, rotate the chain through a few revolutions to help oil get distributed. Even this parsiminous method will apply a bit of excess oil. So use a couple paper towels to wipe the chain full length.
Lube cables by pulling the upper most end back a bit, and dripping oil into the cable sheathing. Oil will run down into the cable,
The secret of this method is that the gasoline thins out the 90 weight oil so it will quickly travel inside tight slaces and disperse. Later, the gasoline evapoarates, leaving that rich, thick 90 weight oil and graphite to do their job. Two cautions. First, remember that gasoline burns, so keep flames snd heat away. Second, store the bottle inside a plastic bag. Oil will somehow always find its way out and make a mess.
1. Forgotten to reconnect a front brake cable after reinstalling a frontbwheel.
2. Had the handle bars turned one time around, wrapping brske and shift cables around the fork head.
3. Had brake cables out of the little sockets at their end, thus making a brake drag.
4. Let cables get rusty. No repair here - only replacement.
Now, lubing cables and chains is easier for me than it used to be. Street wisdom used to say, "Boil the chain in oil. Wipe off excess oil." Hey, chains aren't french fries. The ONLY part of a chain that needs lubrication is the pin inside each roller. Oil not only reduces friction and wear, it is also a hydraulic cushion as each link first comes into contact with the sprocket.
Now, that lubrication and cushion should be thicker, and high viscosity. But- to get it inside thr roller, and around the pin, it has to be thin and low viscosity. Additionally, we sometimes delay lubing a chain too,long. And, water from puddles or rain can wash away oil. So some residual lubricant is a benefit. Years ago, "Dirt Biker" magazine published an article that solved it all.
An ideal lubrication inside chain rollers is 90 weight oil with powdered graphite blended into it. The oil provides both a hydraulic cushion, and long-lasting lubrication. The powdered graphite extends thst life even further. That's the thick of it, and here's the thin of it. Mix in a bit of gasoline. CAUTION: this is flammable, keep away from heat sources
Get one of those little plastic bottles with a small tube type cap. One that a screw on cap can cover the little, protuding tube. Get a small bearing ball, or a small, clean stone. The ball/stone has to go into the bottle. It will serve as an agitator to keep the grapite mixed into suspension with the oil and gasoline. Into the bottle put: agitator ball, 1/2 teaspoon powdered graphite, 90 weight gear oil to half full, and gasoline to full. Reread the cautionary note above.
You can lube an entire chain while it is installed. Vigorously shake the bottle to thoroughly mix oil and graphite. Apply just one drop to both ends of each roller. Move the chain along so a dry part moves into easy reach. Every few links, reshake the bottle and rattle that agitator to keep the graphite in suspension. When complete, rotate the chain through a few revolutions to help oil get distributed. Even this parsiminous method will apply a bit of excess oil. So use a couple paper towels to wipe the chain full length.
Lube cables by pulling the upper most end back a bit, and dripping oil into the cable sheathing. Oil will run down into the cable,
The secret of this method is that the gasoline thins out the 90 weight oil so it will quickly travel inside tight slaces and disperse. Later, the gasoline evapoarates, leaving that rich, thick 90 weight oil and graphite to do their job. Two cautions. First, remember that gasoline burns, so keep flames snd heat away. Second, store the bottle inside a plastic bag. Oil will somehow always find its way out and make a mess.
Ha Ha Ha ..........
Do I remember ( You can bet I do ) boiling a chain in a bucket of grease. I had a 1957 Speed Twin ( Triumph ) motorcycle that I use to do that to as a yearly maintenance routine.
I have done your trick on lubing a chain and today they have a dry lube that works really well. The benefit of the dry lube is that dirt does not stick to it and I don't have that greasy mess to contend with like I did with the Motorcycle's chain back in the dark ages. :lol:
I use a Chain Scrubber like this one on the bikes...... It gets the top , bottom , in between and the sides of the chain.
If you do not want to read the next paragraph then watch this movie about it. :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnffqNrHdAg
That scrubber really cleans a chain when you run it threw there. The scrubber comes apart in the middle and you run the chain between the rollers which have bristles on them. Fill it with water and some Simple Green to the fill line. Close it up with the chain sandwiched in there between the rollers and using the crank run the chain threw it , I do several revolutions of the chain and if it is really dirty then a couple fill ups of the Simple Green and water mix. Then hose the chain off and let it dry , now use the dry lube and you are set. The dry lube is in a liquid which gets it down inside everything and then the liquid evaporates.
This is the one that I like.
http://bikes.progoldmfr.com/products/
Do I remember ( You can bet I do ) boiling a chain in a bucket of grease. I had a 1957 Speed Twin ( Triumph ) motorcycle that I use to do that to as a yearly maintenance routine.
I have done your trick on lubing a chain and today they have a dry lube that works really well. The benefit of the dry lube is that dirt does not stick to it and I don't have that greasy mess to contend with like I did with the Motorcycle's chain back in the dark ages. :lol:
I use a Chain Scrubber like this one on the bikes...... It gets the top , bottom , in between and the sides of the chain.
If you do not want to read the next paragraph then watch this movie about it. :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnffqNrHdAg
That scrubber really cleans a chain when you run it threw there. The scrubber comes apart in the middle and you run the chain between the rollers which have bristles on them. Fill it with water and some Simple Green to the fill line. Close it up with the chain sandwiched in there between the rollers and using the crank run the chain threw it , I do several revolutions of the chain and if it is really dirty then a couple fill ups of the Simple Green and water mix. Then hose the chain off and let it dry , now use the dry lube and you are set. The dry lube is in a liquid which gets it down inside everything and then the liquid evaporates.
This is the one that I like.
http://bikes.progoldmfr.com/products/
I like the chain cleaner, but will not knowingly let any soapy water near a roller chain. I'm going to buy one of the cleaners, but will use a hydrocarbon solvent (gasoline) to clean the chain. Even gasoline will take an hour oe two to completely evaporate out, but is not a problem if it doesn't.
If you put soapy water on a roller chain, it will penetrate into the roller-pin assembly. That won't dry in 15-20 minutes. Soap of any kind is a wetting agent, and lowers surface tension of the water. Most soaps are corrosive; probably the gallon of stuff he used isn't.
Thanks for the idea of the chain cleaner. That's a brand new idea for me. I'm ordering one.
All this bekng said, the best lubed chain I ever saw (pedal bikes, lawn & garden equipment, motorcycles, agricultural and construction equipment) was on a 1959 Honda 50cc motor bike. It was an enclosed chain, with a full chainguard all around it. AND, the crankcase breather exhausted in between two teeth of the drive sprocket. So, as the engine ran, warmed, oily fumes were constantly being pumped into the chain.
I rode that little motorcycle for two years, on dirt roads about 75% of the time, winter (1-5 feet of snow all winter long) and summer, around ocean beaches, rice paddies, and a stream or two. Anytime I checked the chain, it was lightly oiled and perfectly clean. Perfect.
If you put soapy water on a roller chain, it will penetrate into the roller-pin assembly. That won't dry in 15-20 minutes. Soap of any kind is a wetting agent, and lowers surface tension of the water. Most soaps are corrosive; probably the gallon of stuff he used isn't.
Thanks for the idea of the chain cleaner. That's a brand new idea for me. I'm ordering one.
All this bekng said, the best lubed chain I ever saw (pedal bikes, lawn & garden equipment, motorcycles, agricultural and construction equipment) was on a 1959 Honda 50cc motor bike. It was an enclosed chain, with a full chainguard all around it. AND, the crankcase breather exhausted in between two teeth of the drive sprocket. So, as the engine ran, warmed, oily fumes were constantly being pumped into the chain.
I rode that little motorcycle for two years, on dirt roads about 75% of the time, winter (1-5 feet of snow all winter long) and summer, around ocean beaches, rice paddies, and a stream or two. Anytime I checked the chain, it was lightly oiled and perfectly clean. Perfect.
Good idea. Oleum would work too, I suppose.
On an actve chain, the pin & roller assembly will be polished, and susceptible to corrosion. Metal plus water plus oxygen = corrosion. The definition of the corrosive process is: metal, returning to its natural state. IE: metal WILL corrode. We can slow it diwn, but not stop it.
On an actve chain, the pin & roller assembly will be polished, and susceptible to corrosion. Metal plus water plus oxygen = corrosion. The definition of the corrosive process is: metal, returning to its natural state. IE: metal WILL corrode. We can slow it diwn, but not stop it.
Jack .. I agree corrosion ( or rust ) on a chain is not good and it is something a person does not want. It's best to avoid it or slow it since slower or none is better.
No matter which cleaner you use you will like that Chain Scrubber , it is easy to use and does a great job of cleaning the chain.
It is an on going age old debate about chain cleaners for bicycles on the bike forums. The argument's cover everything from Simple Green ( appears to be the most popular cleaner ) to commercial Chain cleaners with Citrus based solvents , then the harsher chemical cleaners = , Gas , Kerosene , Brake cleaners , WD 40 , Transmission fluid ,Alcohol and on and on.
I like to finish the cleaning process with a liberal application of the Gold Link Lube. Here is one of the reasons as they say... " Does not build up or become tacky; sheds dirt, mud, and abrasives. Also repels moisture and prevents corrosion. "
I run the chain threw a couple application of it per side ( The inside ( left ) side of the chain and then the out side ( right ) by slowly back turning the peddles.
No matter which cleaner you use you will like that Chain Scrubber , it is easy to use and does a great job of cleaning the chain.
It is an on going age old debate about chain cleaners for bicycles on the bike forums. The argument's cover everything from Simple Green ( appears to be the most popular cleaner ) to commercial Chain cleaners with Citrus based solvents , then the harsher chemical cleaners = , Gas , Kerosene , Brake cleaners , WD 40 , Transmission fluid ,Alcohol and on and on.
I like to finish the cleaning process with a liberal application of the Gold Link Lube. Here is one of the reasons as they say... " Does not build up or become tacky; sheds dirt, mud, and abrasives. Also repels moisture and prevents corrosion. "
I run the chain threw a couple application of it per side ( The inside ( left ) side of the chain and then the out side ( right ) by slowly back turning the peddles.
Have a chain cleaner on the way. Never had one as a kid, and rode a few thousand miles. Probably, my chain doesn't need it, but I'll log "chain maintenance" as exercize. ;-)
Kayak Jack said:
Jack , you should know this but as a reminder.........
Back in the dark ages when we were kids they made things to Last and Last and Last.
It was not a throw away society like today. It was a use it and keep it forever. If something did not work right or last forever then it was not on the market very long because word spread that it was a pile of junk.
Hell , I don't even remember anything called a bicycle chain scrubber except , maybe for an old worn out toothbrush. :lol:
Jack
I went to a meeting of a local bike club , there were some gals there that sure made me wish I was twenty again ,trikes fit them pretty good.
I made a sideline business out of cleaning and lubing chains. It all started back when I was riding bikes alot and I hated the hassle of lubing those ole chain .
You know me thinking outside the box.
I had a couple foot of 12 inch pipe and some end caps and flanges left of a pipe job I did. Stood it up on end welded a pipe cap on the bottom and a flange on top , the mounted the whole thing on some coil springs. Took a 1/2 horse motor and mounted on the side ,welded a bolt to the shaft so it would vibrate.
I would put in a few chains and then fill it on up with naphtha and 50 weight oil ,seal it up with a blind flange . I had air hooked up to the pipe and would put 10 lbs of pressure on it and hold it for an hour with the motor vibrating the heck out of it. The 10 lbs of pressure would force the naphtha and oil into the inside of the links , the vibration and the chains rubbing together cleaned them pretty good.
After an hour take the chains out and wipe off and let drip dry,you have chains lubed and cleaned inside and out with this rig.
In a steel shop you have equipment that have chains , and the bike riders started bringing them to me and the farmers would bring in all kind of chains that had been sitting outside for a year.
It made a pretty good little side line business. Maybe I need to build me another one.
Ron
I went to a meeting of a local bike club , there were some gals there that sure made me wish I was twenty again ,trikes fit them pretty good.
I made a sideline business out of cleaning and lubing chains. It all started back when I was riding bikes alot and I hated the hassle of lubing those ole chain .
You know me thinking outside the box.
I had a couple foot of 12 inch pipe and some end caps and flanges left of a pipe job I did. Stood it up on end welded a pipe cap on the bottom and a flange on top , the mounted the whole thing on some coil springs. Took a 1/2 horse motor and mounted on the side ,welded a bolt to the shaft so it would vibrate.
I would put in a few chains and then fill it on up with naphtha and 50 weight oil ,seal it up with a blind flange . I had air hooked up to the pipe and would put 10 lbs of pressure on it and hold it for an hour with the motor vibrating the heck out of it. The 10 lbs of pressure would force the naphtha and oil into the inside of the links , the vibration and the chains rubbing together cleaned them pretty good.
After an hour take the chains out and wipe off and let drip dry,you have chains lubed and cleaned inside and out with this rig.
In a steel shop you have equipment that have chains , and the bike riders started bringing them to me and the farmers would bring in all kind of chains that had been sitting outside for a year.
It made a pretty good little side line business. Maybe I need to build me another one.
Ron
Ron.....
I was letting Jack think that only old , fat , women rode trikes and then you came along and told him about the greater majority of trike riders. :lol:
Now you will have him thinking about getting one so he can join a trike club and meet those gal's.
I have found there are a lot of folks out there that will wave when I use the trike , both joggers , bikers and even folks driving. If I'm on the regular bike they just sort of grin and pass on by.
I was letting Jack think that only old , fat , women rode trikes and then you came along and told him about the greater majority of trike riders. :lol:
Now you will have him thinking about getting one so he can join a trike club and meet those gal's.
I have found there are a lot of folks out there that will wave when I use the trike , both joggers , bikers and even folks driving. If I'm on the regular bike they just sort of grin and pass on by.
A Bit Surprised
I cleaned the chains on both bikes. Lots of graphite came off. But, the surprise to me was how many iron filings! I had to poke around in the bottom of the gidget-gadget, and in my memory oo, to figure out what the heck that "fuzzy" little button was down knside the tank. I never in god's world, would have expected that many filings.
The gasoline is all evaporated out of the pin-and-roller assemblies now, I'll lube them up, and go for a ride.
Stand by for a Mach wave!
I cleaned the chains on both bikes. Lots of graphite came off. But, the surprise to me was how many iron filings! I had to poke around in the bottom of the gidget-gadget, and in my memory oo, to figure out what the heck that "fuzzy" little button was down knside the tank. I never in god's world, would have expected that many filings.
The gasoline is all evaporated out of the pin-and-roller assemblies now, I'll lube them up, and go for a ride.
Stand by for a Mach wave!