I noticed Home Depot is carrying some rough sawn Red Cedar so I picked up a 2x4x8 the other day and planed down the 4 inch sides. It looks pretty nice so that got me wondering how wide a strip would be advisable to use for building a stripped canoe? I know most use a 3/4 strip but would an inch or inch and half be too wide? Hope to start my first project next spring. Also just picked up some 2 inch C clamps and some 1/2 inch plastic clamps at Harbor Freight while they are having their dollar sale. Saved quite a bit at 50 to 75 percent off. Stock piling them before I need them and have to pay full price....
Not being a boat builder yet but.....
- Thread starter buckisland1950
- Start date
G'day Frankie,
Mate, I am probably the last one who should be advising you. I have made one attempt at a stipper and I am too ashamed of my work to post much about it here. Also, I know nothing about the bend properties of your cedar.
however, I will have a shot at it and let you know what I learned from my experience.
Depending on the amount of edge bend in the boat you want to build, 1 1/2" is probably too wide. The experts use 3/4' strips for very good reason. I tried to use 1" strips on a boat that required very little edge bend in the strips and still had no end of trouble getting them to conform to shape.
With the benefiet of hind sight, Now, I probably would use 3/4" or even 5/8" strips. If you have access to professionally cut bead and cove cedar strips, it becomes much easier and well worth the expense IMHO.
Mate, there is an aweful lot of work in building a stripper. Sure, a very well made one is a true thing of beauty and I guess, a lot depends on what you want to do with your boat.
There are some magnificent plans available now for stitch and glue, plywood boats (both canoes and kayaks) that are way easier and quicker to build. I believe their performnce is about on a par with the best of the strippers and they can be build it way less than half the time. Just a thought.
What-ever you decide to build, please post here, so that we may all enjoy the experience.
Mate, I am probably the last one who should be advising you. I have made one attempt at a stipper and I am too ashamed of my work to post much about it here. Also, I know nothing about the bend properties of your cedar.
however, I will have a shot at it and let you know what I learned from my experience.
Depending on the amount of edge bend in the boat you want to build, 1 1/2" is probably too wide. The experts use 3/4' strips for very good reason. I tried to use 1" strips on a boat that required very little edge bend in the strips and still had no end of trouble getting them to conform to shape.
With the benefiet of hind sight, Now, I probably would use 3/4" or even 5/8" strips. If you have access to professionally cut bead and cove cedar strips, it becomes much easier and well worth the expense IMHO.
Mate, there is an aweful lot of work in building a stripper. Sure, a very well made one is a true thing of beauty and I guess, a lot depends on what you want to do with your boat.
There are some magnificent plans available now for stitch and glue, plywood boats (both canoes and kayaks) that are way easier and quicker to build. I believe their performnce is about on a par with the best of the strippers and they can be build it way less than half the time. Just a thought.
What-ever you decide to build, please post here, so that we may all enjoy the experience.
A friend here haunted the lumber yards seeking old, cracked, split, warped cedar. He had a lot of fun on a few Saturdays, and got some cheap wood. He said that about half of it made very cheery fires, and the other half made a very pretty boat. He bought the dadoes to put on bead & cove edges.
But, I fully agree with what Mick says. Strippers make beautiful boats, but only after a long time. Plywood makes a beautiful boat a lot quicker. And, a bit stronger to boot.
But, I fully agree with what Mick says. Strippers make beautiful boats, but only after a long time. Plywood makes a beautiful boat a lot quicker. And, a bit stronger to boot.
Jack, the man wants a canoe......fully rounded bottom and pleasant shape overall ( Geez, brings to mind Mrs. Andersen, the cook at my Jr. High....) not a yak.
Yes, 3/4" is plenty to edge-set and not as liable to split then OR LATER. Lots of work in a stripper, and not a cheap way to build..
Reduce your 1 1/2 's to 3/4" or thereabouts.....and be happy.
Coving is not necessary, you can hand plane every single joint to get them close together and then glue them. Hmm....lets see......about 50" around the beam, divided by .75" times 17' in length......that's just about 2,266 linear feet of planing, not counting the end-joints/splines.
I think you'll find that in order to build one stripper, you need to build 3'4 strippers, to learn the system and turn out a GOOD boat.
But, carry on......you won't be happy till you try it.......best advice is this: find someone who is actually doing it, and hang around their shop for a while,keep your eyes open, take notes, sweep up.
Piper
Yes, 3/4" is plenty to edge-set and not as liable to split then OR LATER. Lots of work in a stripper, and not a cheap way to build..
Reduce your 1 1/2 's to 3/4" or thereabouts.....and be happy.
Coving is not necessary, you can hand plane every single joint to get them close together and then glue them. Hmm....lets see......about 50" around the beam, divided by .75" times 17' in length......that's just about 2,266 linear feet of planing, not counting the end-joints/splines.
I think you'll find that in order to build one stripper, you need to build 3'4 strippers, to learn the system and turn out a GOOD boat.
But, carry on......you won't be happy till you try it.......best advice is this: find someone who is actually doing it, and hang around their shop for a while,keep your eyes open, take notes, sweep up.
Piper
strip
Amazingly enough, those who have written prior to myself have [ for once] offered good advice.
There are just too many twists at the bow and stern to use strips over 3/4 ".
Now, don't accept that as gospel as I'm sure someone has made a boat with strips much wider than 3/4". I just would'nt want to try it.
Not the best I assure you. But not bad for a [GIT] I'm only 64 and not really a geezer yet.
Amazingly enough, those who have written prior to myself have [ for once] offered good advice.
There are just too many twists at the bow and stern to use strips over 3/4 ".
Now, don't accept that as gospel as I'm sure someone has made a boat with strips much wider than 3/4". I just would'nt want to try it.
Not the best I assure you. But not bad for a [GIT] I'm only 64 and not really a geezer yet.
Love the Boats
Hope one day to be able to show off one that I have built. Looking to do a 14 footer, solo with some traditional look to it. Really like the looks of the red bird. Will cut some test strips soon and see what they look like..... Thanks for the advice.
Hope one day to be able to show off one that I have built. Looking to do a 14 footer, solo with some traditional look to it. Really like the looks of the red bird. Will cut some test strips soon and see what they look like..... Thanks for the advice.
rpecot said:
Most kits and plans call for 1/4" strips. Both my tandem and kayak are that thickness.
For my solo, I cut the strips to 3/16". There is a noticable difference in the boats. The 3/16 sounds different when droped but, droping hasn't hurt it "yet".
The 1/4 inch tandem weighs right at 52 lbs. it is a Bear Mountain Champlain 16 ft by 31 in at the widest point. I used 6 oz cloth inside and outside. I also built it out of cypress which is a bit heavier than cedar.
Thje 3/16 solo is a modified design I made myself. It is 14'3" and 31 at the widest. It weighs about 36 lbs. It is made of cedar. I do not believe there is any problem with the thinner strips. Extremly hard use,ie. rocks and slamming it around are not recommended.
I use it in rotation and just drag it or carry it and thump it around with no apperant damage.
1/4" to be sure. After some work inside and out with spokeshave, hand planer, scraper and a fair amount of sanding, for the fairing, you can easily end up at 3/16" and maybe even 1/8" once done.
P.S. Hi, guys... Been awhile... :roll:
P.S. Hi, guys... Been awhile... :roll:
Jack, Am doin' rather well. The Dr. let me go back to work so I've done that, only in supervision this time around. So, there's not been a lot of time to stop by.....although one time I did and signed in only to find myself banned! :shock: .....thought maybe my feelings 'bout Sheena movin' to AZ got on folks nerves.... :roll:
A glitch?
Anyway, all's good here, though I sure do miss her...... Last I talked to her, though, she was happy and that's what counts....... Anyway this ain't the thread this belongs in...... (Sorry, Chuck....)
Ya'll chime in on the thickness thing here, now, ya'll hear....
Good to have time to stop in.
A glitch?
Anyway, all's good here, though I sure do miss her...... Last I talked to her, though, she was happy and that's what counts....... Anyway this ain't the thread this belongs in...... (Sorry, Chuck....)
Ya'll chime in on the thickness thing here, now, ya'll hear....
Good to have time to stop in.
sheena's dad said:
Yep.... A Glitch.
We had some problems with unwanted posters on here , they were sneaking in so the security was upgraded and several folks had the same problem , good folks not spammers.
When we found out what was happening the problem was corrected.
Chuck.