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paddle protection

catfish

Well-Known Member
Feb 7, 2007
984
0
jesup, ga.
#1
got a question for you paddle exsperts. i bought a home made light weight paddle from one of our bait stores where one of our localles builds them now (retired) . i believe it is out of white pine or cypress. it is of one piece i just want to proctect it before i put it in the water. whats the best eposy or varnish?
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
12,845
52
80
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
#2
Catfish, to answer a question you haven't asked yet- when my paddles aren't in the water, I protect them in a holster. These (expensive) holsters are made of pants legs I cut off of worn out Levi's. Only the BEST!

Turn one inside out, and sew up the freshly cut edge. The cuff is already sewn; use it as is. Dental floss is handy and strong; use it as thread. Punch or cut some holes around next to that pre-sewn cuff, run an old shoe string through, and you have a handy drawstring.

Or, you could spend $25 and buy one.
 

catfish

Well-Known Member
Feb 7, 2007
984
0
jesup, ga.
#3
jack i guess i should have made my self more clearer? i,m more concernced i guess about rot or decay of the wood from the water than dents or nicks? :?:
 

buckisland1950

Well-Known Member
Aug 15, 2007
191
0
Savannah, GA
#7
Catfish: If the paddle is raw wood, then a few coats of epoxy followed by several coats of varnish is good protection. Seems like overkill but the epoxy will make it waterproof while the varnish will protect it from UV rays. Hope this helps.
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
12,845
52
80
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
#8
Another thought I had is this. If you think the tip end off the blade would profit from additional protection from, say, rocks or logs, try this. Make a small batch of epoxy, and thicken it with wood flour. Get it to the consistency of thick peanut butter.

Then lay a 1/8" bead along the edge of the tip. It should be an extension of the existing blade shape, making the blade 1/8" longer. To help provide a first general shape, you could sandwich it in waxed paper, and shape it with your fingers. Don't try to streamline it now, just get it fully across the blade and straight.

After it is fully cured and rock hard, shape it with sandpaper. This will provide a tough, replaceable tip along the bottom end. When it wears or breaks in rough use age, repair it like you built it.
 
Feb 13, 2011
19
0
houma, la.
#9
I use "several" coats of tongue oil orignally then two coats of liquid plastic or a good oil base paint for hunting paddles. I make my paddles out of 2"x6"x6' ash boards. They are much easier to work wet with a hatchet and draw knife. If not fully dried before sealing it will rot from the inside/out. Here in south la. we have no rocks or such to crack the finish coating.