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paddle protection

Discussion in 'Making your Own paddles' started by catfish, Jan 18, 2013.

  1. catfish

    catfish Well-Known Member

    got a question for you paddle exsperts. i bought a home made light weight paddle from one of our bait stores where one of our localles builds them now (retired) . i believe it is out of white pine or cypress. it is of one piece i just want to proctect it before i put it in the water. whats the best eposy or varnish?
  2. Kayak Jack

    Kayak Jack Well-Known Member

    Catfish, to answer a question you haven't asked yet- when my paddles aren't in the water, I protect them in a holster. These (expensive) holsters are made of pants legs I cut off of worn out Levi's. Only the BEST!

    Turn one inside out, and sew up the freshly cut edge. The cuff is already sewn; use it as is. Dental floss is handy and strong; use it as thread. Punch or cut some holes around next to that pre-sewn cuff, run an old shoe string through, and you have a handy drawstring.

    Or, you could spend $25 and buy one.
  3. catfish

    catfish Well-Known Member

    jack i guess i should have made my self more clearer? i,m more concernced i guess about rot or decay of the wood from the water than dents or nicks? :?:
  4. Kayak Jack

    Kayak Jack Well-Known Member

    I understood that. Just adding a bit of info. Paddles are to be protected - and used as needed. Mine get used as a tool. And protected the rest of the time.
  5. tx river rat

    tx river rat Well-Known Member

    Epoxy will protect it the best'
  6. catfish

    catfish Well-Known Member

    thanks kj anf tr may do both.
  7. buckisland1950

    buckisland1950 Well-Known Member

    Catfish: If the paddle is raw wood, then a few coats of epoxy followed by several coats of varnish is good protection. Seems like overkill but the epoxy will make it waterproof while the varnish will protect it from UV rays. Hope this helps.
  8. Kayak Jack

    Kayak Jack Well-Known Member

    Another thought I had is this. If you think the tip end off the blade would profit from additional protection from, say, rocks or logs, try this. Make a small batch of epoxy, and thicken it with wood flour. Get it to the consistency of thick peanut butter.

    Then lay a 1/8" bead along the edge of the tip. It should be an extension of the existing blade shape, making the blade 1/8" longer. To help provide a first general shape, you could sandwich it in waxed paper, and shape it with your fingers. Don't try to streamline it now, just get it fully across the blade and straight.

    After it is fully cured and rock hard, shape it with sandpaper. This will provide a tough, replaceable tip along the bottom end. When it wears or breaks in rough use age, repair it like you built it.
  9. olecajun

    olecajun Member

    I use "several" coats of tongue oil orignally then two coats of liquid plastic or a good oil base paint for hunting paddles. I make my paddles out of 2"x6"x6' ash boards. They are much easier to work wet with a hatchet and draw knife. If not fully dried before sealing it will rot from the inside/out. Here in south la. we have no rocks or such to crack the finish coating.

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