Day 18: Thursday 9-25
Woke at 7 AM to another raw, cold windy day. Even with the tarp set, a lot of water got between the tent floor and my inside "ground cloth". Decided it would take too long to get a fire going with this wet wood, so I will have to skip my morning tea. I hate doing that because I really enjoy a hot cup in the morning, and on portages. I NEED A STOVE.
Note: I have received many suggestions and have looked at them, on the Campmor website. The little Esbit Pocket Stove looks ideal for cooking in the tent. I am sure it would work with a tea-lite candle. After I experiment, again, with the Whisperlite, I will take a ride up to the Campmor store and look over everything: tents, LED lights and stoves.
Launched at 8:30 AM into a westerly (10-15 MPH) wind. Reached the first portage into Jean Lake at 9 AM and had no problem with the 2 "hops" (20R - 30R). Once into Jean, I was paddling east, with the wind - YEA!!. Did the first 3.5 miles in one hour and then turned south, along the protected shore, for another 2 miles before reaching the portage (80R) into Burntside Lake. Took my time, and even stopped to fish a few times. Caught one small bass and 3 pike (one measured 31"). Passed by several decent looking campsites, but decided to put on some miles. Lake really narrows for the last mile and a current develops (going in my direction) before running into Rouge Lake. Only campsite shown on Rouge is located just across from the portage into Jean Creek. The site was in a "burn area", so there was plenty of firewood; Did not look like it had been used much.
It was 3 PM, decision time: Next listed site was located 5 miles, and 5 portages away, on the far side of BIG Sturgeon Lake. I could probably make it before dark, but it was still cold and windy, and I had not eaten all day. Decided to spend the night here. A bit tricky unloading the gear up a steep rock, but I had camp established by 4 PM. Even remembered to tie the canoe for the night. Started a fire at 5 PM, and a pair of tandem paddlers came by. I invited them to share the site, but they insisted on continuing. How in the hell did they expect to make it to the next campsite before dark?
Finished dinner and spent the next hour fishing from shore; Only caught 2 pike. Sun poked through at 6:30 PM and the wind died down. Only wildlife I saw today were 2 eagles and a few loons. However, I did make a total of 9 miles paddling and 130R portaging, so it was not too bad a day. Had a nice fire to go with my cocktails.
Day 19: Friday 9-26
Despite a bit of nasty weather, today was one of my best days (EVER) paddling.
Woke at 7 AM to another cloudy morning. Rained last night (again) so I took my time breaking camp to allow the gear to dry. Plenty of firewood, so I treated myself to 3 pots of boiling water and some Hungry Jack pancakes. Launched at 9:30 AM and paddled the 50 yards over to the portage (20R) into Jean Creek.
Jean is 1.7 miles long and empties into Sturgeon Lake. Really a beautiful creek that averages about 20-40 feet in width, with crystal clear water and "angel hair" growing from the bottom. Reminds me of some of the springs in Florida. Only drawback is that it contains 5 portages (20-19-20-21-40R) totaling 120R. In addition, I had to drag around 2 "unlisted" beaver dams. But this is a low lying marsh area so all portages were easy. Current is "brisk" and I barely had to paddle. Saw lots of beaver huts, but no beaver. Only wildlife were a few flocks of puddle ducks and 2 otters, who stayed just ahead of me for a few hundred yards. Whenever I got too close, they would snort, slap their tails and dive. really a pleasurable paddle, despite the portages. 2 hours later, I arrived at Sturgeon Lake.
This section of the lake is about 12 miles west of where I had crossed it (8-9 days ago) on my way north. My route took me due south through 3.5 miles of open water. Naturally, the wind was out of the south, in my face! Not really that bad though, maybe 10-12 MPH. Trolled the entire time and only caught 1 dink bass. Entered the headwaters of the Maligne River 1 hour and 45 minutes later.
Maligne runs for about 12-13 miles before emptying into Minn Lake. Current is swift and the first 1.5 miles has 3 portages (52-64-42R) totaling 158R. All 3 of the portages are around Class III rapids. First portage is around 2 sets of rapids (upper Class III and lower Class II). Upon reaching the end, I found a real mess of litter: 2 large Zip-Loc bags, a fishing lure package and 9 cigarette butts at the base of a large rock. I added all of it to my "burnable" bag, to be disposed of that night in my campfire. Now, who would leave such a mess; and who would smoke 9 cigarettes at the end of a portage?
Note: In 19 days, and some 150 miles, the amount of litter that I have seen would fit in the palm of your hand. Biggest thing I have found is the thermometer, and I am sure that was dropped accidentally. Even though there are no toilets (like in the BWCA) in Quetico, I have seen very few "white spots" of paper. I would have to conclude that there exists a code of ethics, among paddlers who venture into this area, that does not exist among those who travel the "yuppie" canoe trails.
Fished below the rapids and caught a decent (14") bass for dinner. When I walked around the point, to fillet the fish, I saw a "beached" canoe on the opposite side, between the first and second set of rapids: Really got me curious. Determined that I could easily run that lower set, in an empty canoe, so I carried above them and paddled over to the stranded canoe. Turned out to be a Grumman, aluminum tandem, badly dented and with several gapping holes. They must have tried to run that upper set of rapids! There was no gear inside and they had made an attempt (feeble) to patch the holes with black electrical tape (not Duct tape).
Here is my theory:
They bashed into the rocks and tried to repair the canoe. When that failed, they swam all of their gear (it may have been during July/August) over to the portage and just waited there for another party to arrive. Must have been quite some time, because one guy smoked 9 cigarettes and they ate 2 large bags of food. Then, "hitched a ride" with the next group of paddlers.
Put on my PFD and ran the smaller rapids back to my gear. Few "bumps" and took on a little water, but it was really fun.
Note: I would not have run those rapids if I thought there was even the slightest chance of peril, especially paddling solo. I know my own skill level and the capabilities/limitations of this canoe. Besides, even if I did swamp, all of my gear was dry and within easy reach.
Paddled down to the next portage and carried my gear all the way to the end, beyond another 2 sets of rapids. However, I noticed a trail that led down to a spot between the 2 sets, so I only carried the canoe to that point and then ran the second (Class II) set. Was starting to rain, so I made haste around the last portage to a campsite indicated on the map. Saw a partridge on the trail; First one! Last time I was here I saw at least a dozen. Campsite is a real beauty, with a large grassy area. I am surprised that the fire pit seems little used. Pitched my tent, hung the tarp, secured the canoe for the night and walked the portage to gather firewood. Rained stopped by 6 PM and I had a great dinner of fried bass fillets and Liptons "White Cheddar and Broccoli Pasta". Stayed up until 10 PM tending the fire, drinking cocktails and listening to the roar of the rapids. If this ain't heaven, I don't know what is!
Woke at 7 AM to another raw, cold windy day. Even with the tarp set, a lot of water got between the tent floor and my inside "ground cloth". Decided it would take too long to get a fire going with this wet wood, so I will have to skip my morning tea. I hate doing that because I really enjoy a hot cup in the morning, and on portages. I NEED A STOVE.
Note: I have received many suggestions and have looked at them, on the Campmor website. The little Esbit Pocket Stove looks ideal for cooking in the tent. I am sure it would work with a tea-lite candle. After I experiment, again, with the Whisperlite, I will take a ride up to the Campmor store and look over everything: tents, LED lights and stoves.
Launched at 8:30 AM into a westerly (10-15 MPH) wind. Reached the first portage into Jean Lake at 9 AM and had no problem with the 2 "hops" (20R - 30R). Once into Jean, I was paddling east, with the wind - YEA!!. Did the first 3.5 miles in one hour and then turned south, along the protected shore, for another 2 miles before reaching the portage (80R) into Burntside Lake. Took my time, and even stopped to fish a few times. Caught one small bass and 3 pike (one measured 31"). Passed by several decent looking campsites, but decided to put on some miles. Lake really narrows for the last mile and a current develops (going in my direction) before running into Rouge Lake. Only campsite shown on Rouge is located just across from the portage into Jean Creek. The site was in a "burn area", so there was plenty of firewood; Did not look like it had been used much.
It was 3 PM, decision time: Next listed site was located 5 miles, and 5 portages away, on the far side of BIG Sturgeon Lake. I could probably make it before dark, but it was still cold and windy, and I had not eaten all day. Decided to spend the night here. A bit tricky unloading the gear up a steep rock, but I had camp established by 4 PM. Even remembered to tie the canoe for the night. Started a fire at 5 PM, and a pair of tandem paddlers came by. I invited them to share the site, but they insisted on continuing. How in the hell did they expect to make it to the next campsite before dark?
Finished dinner and spent the next hour fishing from shore; Only caught 2 pike. Sun poked through at 6:30 PM and the wind died down. Only wildlife I saw today were 2 eagles and a few loons. However, I did make a total of 9 miles paddling and 130R portaging, so it was not too bad a day. Had a nice fire to go with my cocktails.
Day 19: Friday 9-26
Despite a bit of nasty weather, today was one of my best days (EVER) paddling.
Woke at 7 AM to another cloudy morning. Rained last night (again) so I took my time breaking camp to allow the gear to dry. Plenty of firewood, so I treated myself to 3 pots of boiling water and some Hungry Jack pancakes. Launched at 9:30 AM and paddled the 50 yards over to the portage (20R) into Jean Creek.
Jean is 1.7 miles long and empties into Sturgeon Lake. Really a beautiful creek that averages about 20-40 feet in width, with crystal clear water and "angel hair" growing from the bottom. Reminds me of some of the springs in Florida. Only drawback is that it contains 5 portages (20-19-20-21-40R) totaling 120R. In addition, I had to drag around 2 "unlisted" beaver dams. But this is a low lying marsh area so all portages were easy. Current is "brisk" and I barely had to paddle. Saw lots of beaver huts, but no beaver. Only wildlife were a few flocks of puddle ducks and 2 otters, who stayed just ahead of me for a few hundred yards. Whenever I got too close, they would snort, slap their tails and dive. really a pleasurable paddle, despite the portages. 2 hours later, I arrived at Sturgeon Lake.
This section of the lake is about 12 miles west of where I had crossed it (8-9 days ago) on my way north. My route took me due south through 3.5 miles of open water. Naturally, the wind was out of the south, in my face! Not really that bad though, maybe 10-12 MPH. Trolled the entire time and only caught 1 dink bass. Entered the headwaters of the Maligne River 1 hour and 45 minutes later.
Maligne runs for about 12-13 miles before emptying into Minn Lake. Current is swift and the first 1.5 miles has 3 portages (52-64-42R) totaling 158R. All 3 of the portages are around Class III rapids. First portage is around 2 sets of rapids (upper Class III and lower Class II). Upon reaching the end, I found a real mess of litter: 2 large Zip-Loc bags, a fishing lure package and 9 cigarette butts at the base of a large rock. I added all of it to my "burnable" bag, to be disposed of that night in my campfire. Now, who would leave such a mess; and who would smoke 9 cigarettes at the end of a portage?
Note: In 19 days, and some 150 miles, the amount of litter that I have seen would fit in the palm of your hand. Biggest thing I have found is the thermometer, and I am sure that was dropped accidentally. Even though there are no toilets (like in the BWCA) in Quetico, I have seen very few "white spots" of paper. I would have to conclude that there exists a code of ethics, among paddlers who venture into this area, that does not exist among those who travel the "yuppie" canoe trails.
Fished below the rapids and caught a decent (14") bass for dinner. When I walked around the point, to fillet the fish, I saw a "beached" canoe on the opposite side, between the first and second set of rapids: Really got me curious. Determined that I could easily run that lower set, in an empty canoe, so I carried above them and paddled over to the stranded canoe. Turned out to be a Grumman, aluminum tandem, badly dented and with several gapping holes. They must have tried to run that upper set of rapids! There was no gear inside and they had made an attempt (feeble) to patch the holes with black electrical tape (not Duct tape).
Here is my theory:
They bashed into the rocks and tried to repair the canoe. When that failed, they swam all of their gear (it may have been during July/August) over to the portage and just waited there for another party to arrive. Must have been quite some time, because one guy smoked 9 cigarettes and they ate 2 large bags of food. Then, "hitched a ride" with the next group of paddlers.
Put on my PFD and ran the smaller rapids back to my gear. Few "bumps" and took on a little water, but it was really fun.
Note: I would not have run those rapids if I thought there was even the slightest chance of peril, especially paddling solo. I know my own skill level and the capabilities/limitations of this canoe. Besides, even if I did swamp, all of my gear was dry and within easy reach.
Paddled down to the next portage and carried my gear all the way to the end, beyond another 2 sets of rapids. However, I noticed a trail that led down to a spot between the 2 sets, so I only carried the canoe to that point and then ran the second (Class II) set. Was starting to rain, so I made haste around the last portage to a campsite indicated on the map. Saw a partridge on the trail; First one! Last time I was here I saw at least a dozen. Campsite is a real beauty, with a large grassy area. I am surprised that the fire pit seems little used. Pitched my tent, hung the tarp, secured the canoe for the night and walked the portage to gather firewood. Rained stopped by 6 PM and I had a great dinner of fried bass fillets and Liptons "White Cheddar and Broccoli Pasta". Stayed up until 10 PM tending the fire, drinking cocktails and listening to the roar of the rapids. If this ain't heaven, I don't know what is!