Day 28: Sunday 10-5
Really got cold last night! I fried the bass fillets early and made a pot of Ramen about 9 PM. When I reached for the spoon, it was frozen to a wet towel. Even while sitting by the fire, my feet got cold. Stayed up late, and had a few extra cocktails, so I could sleep later in the morning. This was the first night I wore my wool jacket to bed, and pulled the sleeping bag hood tight over my head. A wool cap would have been welcome.
Woke at 7:30 AM. The grass is covered with a thick coating of frost, and my water jug is frozen. Bright sunshine, but the thermometer reads 30 degrees; it must have dropped into the low 20's last night. Got a fire going for tea, and then made a pot of Lipton's noodle soup. My "sock-mittens" came in handy. By 10 AM, the sun had melted all of the frost and I broke camp. Must now make a decision, which route to travel back to my truck.
I laid out the 3 detailed maps covering the area between me and my truck; held them in place with rocks and used the "tailors tape" to measure distances (1.5" = 1 mile). The most direct route would be to follow the US-CAN border (WNW), which is a distance of about 30 miles and entails 6 portages, totaling 195R. Now, 30 miles is a long way to be able to paddle, up here, with so few portages, and I figured this route would be heavily traveled. The alternative was to head back north, deeper into Quetico, and go through a series of smaller lakes, for a total distance of 40 miles and have to traverse 18 portages, totaling 878R. Sun is shining, water is "reflection" calm, and I have enough food for 4 days. Would still like to see a bull moose, and maybe have one more walleye dinner: Decided to "take the path least traveled". Launched at 11 AM.
Paddled the first 4 miles along the border, during which time I saw 3 other paddlers, then carried over the 40R portage into Carp Lake; Followed Carp, north, for 4 more miles to the portage (15R) into Sheridan Lake: Sheridan for .5 mile to the portage (136R) into That Man Lake: 2.5 miles to the campsite. Total 11 miles paddle; 191 rods portage.
5 PM: Today was a paddlers dream come true!! Reflection calm water, bright (70 degree) sunshine and I did not see another paddler after turning north. The only sounds I heard all day were the shrill of loons, and the "swish" of my paddle. What a pleasure to glide the canoe through such beautiful country. Days like this make up for the raw, cold, windy ones that must be endured on a trip of this lenght. Would like to have seen a moose, or caught a walleye, but did neither: Still, a memorable day; Very glad I chose this route.
Day 29: Monday 10-6
Woke at 7:30 AM to bright sunshine, calm wind and a fine mist coming off the lake. Beautiful morning, with a 40 degree temperature. Started a fire and went about the business of breaking camp. When I went into my pack for tea bags, I noticed that every Zip-Loc bag had been chewed through. Mice must have entered through the same hole their buddies had made. No real damage done: My sugar, and Coffee Mate, are kept in hard plastic containers (used spice jars), and all other food (what's left of it) was stored in a separate bag, hung from a tree. Even so, I felt "violated". Had to completely empty the pack to get rid of the mouse shit. Also, while taking down the tent, I noticed a small hole in one corner. Those MF's chewed a hole right through my tent!! The eagles will be eating lots of mice next year, because I am bringing a few traps.
Launched at 9:30 AM. First portage (30R) is just across the lake: Short portage, but it went up, and up, and up. At the very top, there were 3 cedar trees growing very close together; no way to get around them, and the canoe was too wide to fit between them. So, I had to drop the canoe and drag it through on it's side. Was soaked with perspiration and my heart was pounding, so I took a tea break. This put me into a small "no-name" lake, that is very shallow and only about 1/2 mile long. Next portage (50R) is the exact opposite: Gradual decline for the first half, then a steep decline near the end. So, this must be a crater lake sitting atop a mountain?
Note: While walking this, and many other portages, I would often see a variety of mushrooms. I LOVE fried mushrooms, but am not able to identify them. That lack of knowledge cost me the opportunity for some fine dinning. Several of the mushrooms on this trail were quite large (14" across) and snow white in color? I need to do some research.
That portage put me into Emerald Lake, which is crystal clear. Had to paddle east, through a short finger, then turn west for 2.5 miles. Trolled the entire time and never had a hit. Map indicates that the portage into Plough Lake is located on the left side of the creek. Spent 15 minutes searching, with no luck. The map has been known to be wrong (several times) in the past, so I went over to the other side. Finally located the portage behind a huge, (newly) fallen cedar tree: bit of a hassle getting through the branches. Portage is only 50R, but VERY muddy. At one point, there were 6 huge logs, half sawn, lengthwise (with a chain saw), with the flat side up, placed end-to-end over the mud to form a "bridge". Each log was 8' long and 20-22" wide. That must have been one difficult project to complete! The logs were slippery, but a big help.
2:30 PM, I am really tired, those first two steep portages took a lot out of me, and this last one was not much fun either. Launched onto Plough, which is a long, narrow lake; only 40-60 yards wide. More like paddling a river then a lake. Slight breeze at my back, so I made the 2.25 miles in 45 minutes. Had I seen a campsite, I would have stopped for the day, that's how tired I am. But, I did not, so now I must carry this portage (150R) (1/2 mile) into Ottertrack Lake.
3:45 PM, That was not an easy portage!! Had everything: uphill, downhill, swamp, rocky creek bed, mud, a fallen tree, and moss covered slippery rocks. The temperature is an amazing 82 degrees, and I am soaked just wearing a T-shirt. I am stopping at the first thing that even looks like a campsite.
4:30 PM Paddled about a mile up Ottertrack, which is back on the US-Canadian border. There are no campsites on the Quetico side, so I came into the BWCA to a "charted" site. Technically, I should not be camping here, without a permit, but I am just too tired to go any further. I have not seen another paddler all day, so I doubt that I will be "infringing" on anyone. Will be able to cook on a cast iron grate tonight, and "sit my butt on a toilet" in the morning. AAH, the luxury of being back in America!
Set up camp and used the canoe to gather firewood. Everything in order by 6 PM, so I spent the last hour, before dark, fishing with the last live worm, and sipping cocktails. Didn't catch a fish, but the cocktails were great and the sunset magnificent.
All-in-all, not a bad day. I only covered 7 miles, but 1 mile of that was (tough) portage! I am only about 17 miles, and 2 portages (80R-5R) from my truck, and could probably make it in one day, with a favorable wind. But, I still have a 3 day ration of rum, so I will drink half tonight, camp one more night, and then have a short, easy paddle on the last day. It would be sacrilege to return with a ration of rum, and I do not want to offend any Voyageur gods.
Really got cold last night! I fried the bass fillets early and made a pot of Ramen about 9 PM. When I reached for the spoon, it was frozen to a wet towel. Even while sitting by the fire, my feet got cold. Stayed up late, and had a few extra cocktails, so I could sleep later in the morning. This was the first night I wore my wool jacket to bed, and pulled the sleeping bag hood tight over my head. A wool cap would have been welcome.
Woke at 7:30 AM. The grass is covered with a thick coating of frost, and my water jug is frozen. Bright sunshine, but the thermometer reads 30 degrees; it must have dropped into the low 20's last night. Got a fire going for tea, and then made a pot of Lipton's noodle soup. My "sock-mittens" came in handy. By 10 AM, the sun had melted all of the frost and I broke camp. Must now make a decision, which route to travel back to my truck.
I laid out the 3 detailed maps covering the area between me and my truck; held them in place with rocks and used the "tailors tape" to measure distances (1.5" = 1 mile). The most direct route would be to follow the US-CAN border (WNW), which is a distance of about 30 miles and entails 6 portages, totaling 195R. Now, 30 miles is a long way to be able to paddle, up here, with so few portages, and I figured this route would be heavily traveled. The alternative was to head back north, deeper into Quetico, and go through a series of smaller lakes, for a total distance of 40 miles and have to traverse 18 portages, totaling 878R. Sun is shining, water is "reflection" calm, and I have enough food for 4 days. Would still like to see a bull moose, and maybe have one more walleye dinner: Decided to "take the path least traveled". Launched at 11 AM.
Paddled the first 4 miles along the border, during which time I saw 3 other paddlers, then carried over the 40R portage into Carp Lake; Followed Carp, north, for 4 more miles to the portage (15R) into Sheridan Lake: Sheridan for .5 mile to the portage (136R) into That Man Lake: 2.5 miles to the campsite. Total 11 miles paddle; 191 rods portage.
5 PM: Today was a paddlers dream come true!! Reflection calm water, bright (70 degree) sunshine and I did not see another paddler after turning north. The only sounds I heard all day were the shrill of loons, and the "swish" of my paddle. What a pleasure to glide the canoe through such beautiful country. Days like this make up for the raw, cold, windy ones that must be endured on a trip of this lenght. Would like to have seen a moose, or caught a walleye, but did neither: Still, a memorable day; Very glad I chose this route.
Day 29: Monday 10-6
Woke at 7:30 AM to bright sunshine, calm wind and a fine mist coming off the lake. Beautiful morning, with a 40 degree temperature. Started a fire and went about the business of breaking camp. When I went into my pack for tea bags, I noticed that every Zip-Loc bag had been chewed through. Mice must have entered through the same hole their buddies had made. No real damage done: My sugar, and Coffee Mate, are kept in hard plastic containers (used spice jars), and all other food (what's left of it) was stored in a separate bag, hung from a tree. Even so, I felt "violated". Had to completely empty the pack to get rid of the mouse shit. Also, while taking down the tent, I noticed a small hole in one corner. Those MF's chewed a hole right through my tent!! The eagles will be eating lots of mice next year, because I am bringing a few traps.
Launched at 9:30 AM. First portage (30R) is just across the lake: Short portage, but it went up, and up, and up. At the very top, there were 3 cedar trees growing very close together; no way to get around them, and the canoe was too wide to fit between them. So, I had to drop the canoe and drag it through on it's side. Was soaked with perspiration and my heart was pounding, so I took a tea break. This put me into a small "no-name" lake, that is very shallow and only about 1/2 mile long. Next portage (50R) is the exact opposite: Gradual decline for the first half, then a steep decline near the end. So, this must be a crater lake sitting atop a mountain?
Note: While walking this, and many other portages, I would often see a variety of mushrooms. I LOVE fried mushrooms, but am not able to identify them. That lack of knowledge cost me the opportunity for some fine dinning. Several of the mushrooms on this trail were quite large (14" across) and snow white in color? I need to do some research.
That portage put me into Emerald Lake, which is crystal clear. Had to paddle east, through a short finger, then turn west for 2.5 miles. Trolled the entire time and never had a hit. Map indicates that the portage into Plough Lake is located on the left side of the creek. Spent 15 minutes searching, with no luck. The map has been known to be wrong (several times) in the past, so I went over to the other side. Finally located the portage behind a huge, (newly) fallen cedar tree: bit of a hassle getting through the branches. Portage is only 50R, but VERY muddy. At one point, there were 6 huge logs, half sawn, lengthwise (with a chain saw), with the flat side up, placed end-to-end over the mud to form a "bridge". Each log was 8' long and 20-22" wide. That must have been one difficult project to complete! The logs were slippery, but a big help.
2:30 PM, I am really tired, those first two steep portages took a lot out of me, and this last one was not much fun either. Launched onto Plough, which is a long, narrow lake; only 40-60 yards wide. More like paddling a river then a lake. Slight breeze at my back, so I made the 2.25 miles in 45 minutes. Had I seen a campsite, I would have stopped for the day, that's how tired I am. But, I did not, so now I must carry this portage (150R) (1/2 mile) into Ottertrack Lake.
3:45 PM, That was not an easy portage!! Had everything: uphill, downhill, swamp, rocky creek bed, mud, a fallen tree, and moss covered slippery rocks. The temperature is an amazing 82 degrees, and I am soaked just wearing a T-shirt. I am stopping at the first thing that even looks like a campsite.
4:30 PM Paddled about a mile up Ottertrack, which is back on the US-Canadian border. There are no campsites on the Quetico side, so I came into the BWCA to a "charted" site. Technically, I should not be camping here, without a permit, but I am just too tired to go any further. I have not seen another paddler all day, so I doubt that I will be "infringing" on anyone. Will be able to cook on a cast iron grate tonight, and "sit my butt on a toilet" in the morning. AAH, the luxury of being back in America!
Set up camp and used the canoe to gather firewood. Everything in order by 6 PM, so I spent the last hour, before dark, fishing with the last live worm, and sipping cocktails. Didn't catch a fish, but the cocktails were great and the sunset magnificent.
All-in-all, not a bad day. I only covered 7 miles, but 1 mile of that was (tough) portage! I am only about 17 miles, and 2 portages (80R-5R) from my truck, and could probably make it in one day, with a favorable wind. But, I still have a 3 day ration of rum, so I will drink half tonight, camp one more night, and then have a short, easy paddle on the last day. It would be sacrilege to return with a ration of rum, and I do not want to offend any Voyageur gods.