Guy's this will be in some installments due to the length of it. John (Depa) wanted me to do them as an e-mail to you but then a lot of you would not have the pleasure of reading his trip report.
Besides ...... When in the He## have I ever done or listened to what anyone wants. :roll: John is a good friend and paddling buddy of mine and he has paddled more water then I know I ever will. He did the 100 miles thru the glades and then turned around and did the 100 miles back.
1st time I actually meet John was at Mohawk Canoes when he came down here to purchase a solo canoe from them for the Glades paddle. He asked me to join him at Mohawk , for some reason beyond me. :?
Before then we were e-mail buddies and I was sending him info about the Glades which he wanted to paddle , and I have done several times.
He got the canoe and spent a couple of weeks in Ocala paddling, camping and fishing to get the feel of the canoe before hitting the glades.
Since then we have paddled together and he has done the St.Johns from Sawgrass to Lake Harney and most of the rivers in Florida, Texas and the rest between here and his home in New Jersey.That should give you an idea about him but for now here is his Canada trip.
Chuck.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since this series of emails will (might) be "forwarded" to people not familiar with me, I will give a brief background of who I am.
Name is John Depa, I am a retired school teacher, age 61, weight 150 pounds, very good looking? I was introduced to paddling about 4-5 years ago through Bill Logan's book/video on paddling the Suwannee River. That was my first extended trip: Crossed the swamp (Okefenokee) 30-40 miles and then went "over the sill" (earthen dam) into the Suwannee and down the next 210 miles to reach the Gulf. I was in no rush (never am when there might be the possibility of a fresh fish dinner) so the trip took 21 days. After that, I was "hooked on paddling" and have since done (maybe) another 3,000 - 4,000 (5,000?) miles. It has become a way of life for me, six months of the year (and getting longer).
I always paddle a solo canoe, but often go "out of my way" to meet up with friends that I have made over the years: Bill, Chuck and Mac (all Floridian's) being my closest, but have also met-up with others from 3 different states. Paddling is, in and of itself, the greatest pastime/life-style one could imagine, but the added bonus of meeting some of the nicest people on the face of the earth is a BIG plus. "I have never met a paddler that I did not like"!
During the course of this report, I will relate the gear I used, what went right and what went wrong, and what I would do differently next time. Would also appreciate feedback from other paddlers to aid me on future trips.
About the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, Minnesota - Quetico, Ontario, Canada. Robert Beymer, author of several books on the area, describes them as...
BWCA - "...a paradise for the wilderness canoeist. Stretching for 200 miles along the Canadian border of NE Minnesota, this magnificent wilderness offers over 1,200 miles of canoe routes through some of the most beautiful country in the world. At over a million acres, it is the second largest unit of our National Wilderness Preservation system."
Quetico- ".. Provincial Park is among the finest canoe country in the world. Spanning a region of almost 1,800 square miles in western Ontario, Quetico is laced with hundreds of miles of interconnected waterways through some of the most beautiful canoe country in the world."
There are some major differences in the way each country manages its section of the wilderness area:
Camping: In the BWCA you must camp at a designated site, each of which is equipped with a fire grate and outdoor toilet. In Quetico there are no "improvements" and camping is permitted anywhere you can find level ground. However, there are many sites that have been used over the centuries and one would be foolish not to take advantage of them.
Permits: BWCA issues over 250,000 (quarter million) permits each year. Quetico issues 20,000.
Fees: BWCA permits cost $10 and is valid for as long as you wish to stay. Quetico is $12 Canadian, (which is about $9 US) per day - per person. So, my 30 day trip in BWCA would cost a total of $10, while the same trip in Quetico cost $270 US.
Power boats: Are permitted in limited areas of the BWCA. No power boats, or even sea planes, are permitted in Quetico.
Restrictions: Cans and bottles are not permitted in either area. And, there is talk of banning aluminum foil as well.
Sat. 9-6-03: Left NJ at 8 AM and drove 750 miles to South Bend, Indiana. Was tired by then so looked for a motel. Turned out that Notre Dame was playing football that day so everything was "booked". Wound up in some "flea-bag" dump that cost me $45, and I had to buy drinking water from the station across the street.
Sunday, 9-7: Drove to the town of Grand Marias, Minn. Arrived about 6 PM. Total mileage was 1,432. This is the last "anything/anytown" before you head up the Gunflint Trail (57 mile dead-end road) to launch into either BWCA, or Quetico. Tried several motels in Grand Marias and they were VERY expensive ($70-90) but found one that was GEM (clean, well kept, warm, coffee in room, etc.) for $35, Larson's Rest Stop. One minor problem, they do not allow smoking in ANY of their rooms. Ate dinner at the local VFW (on advice) and ordered the $7 chicken platter special - EXCELLENT BUY!! Also had what would be my last few beers for a long, long while.
The trip begins:
Day 1: Monday, 9-8
Up early for breakfast, fueled the truck and headed up the Gunflint Trail. Was informed that the only place to buy an Ontario fishing license (on the USA side) was the Gunflint Lodge, so I stopped there (about 35 miles up) and bought one- $27 year (conservation: 2 fish limit per day). I had been in contact with several outfitters via the Internet, so I stopped at each and got the "nitty-gritty". First two were going to close for the season on Oct. 4th, and upon my return, I would have to walk a mile to get back to my truck. Went to Voyageurs Outfitter and found them to be the best solution. They live there year round and the woman I dealt with, Marilyn, was very accommodating. Unloaded the gear and parked my truck (cost was $30 for 30 days). By 11 AM my canoe was loaded on their launch boat and Sarah was speeding me across Saganaga Lake (a big one) to the closest island allowable (by power boats) to the Canadian ranger station, which is located on an island in Cache Bay. Cost of the shuttle launch is $28, one way, or $35 round trip. The shuttle saves you 6 miles of paddling through a potentially rough lake that is open to power boats.
Sarah dropped me off at Hook Island and gave me a "heading" to reach the Canadian Ranger Station. Paddled over there (less then 2 miles) in about 45 minutes. Jean, the Ranger, was very helpful, in fact she (kinda' ) gave me a break. Permits into Quetico are VERY, VERY limited. We had called her via VHF (or CB?) radio but by the time I arrived the next-to-last permit had been issued to another solo paddler (female). Jean said she would give me a permit if I promised to stay at the first campsite above Silver Falls, so as not to interfere with the quality of experience for other paddlers: I agreed to do so. I paid for a 10 day permit, which I thought would be enough time for me to reach the Canadian town of Atakokin (a distance of 55 miles), where I could "check in" with my family, re-supply, purchase a new permit and take a longer route back to Voyageurs Outfitter. Two years ago, I had driven to Atakokin and launched a 9 day trip into Quetico. So, I was familiar with the area and town.
Note: In order to enter Canada via the wilderness area, you must possess a Remote Area Border Crossing permit. RABC permit must be obtained in advance through the immigration office (by mail) at Thunder Bay. Cost is $22 and the permit is valid for 2 years.
It was still early afternoon when I left the ranger station, so I took a leisurely paddle/troll across the 3 miles of Cache Bay to the first (of many) portage at Silver Falls. My canoe, a Mad River Independence, is fitted with 2 adjustable rod holders (that I simply love) so I often troll 2 fishing rods. Caught (and released) 3 smallmouth bass before reaching the portage.
First portage is always the toughest: You are "out of shape" physically and are "fully loaded". I was not sure about stopping at Atakokin, so I had packed enough food (to be supplemented with fish) for a full 30 days. I have to "double-carry" over every portage and do it as such: First trip - Tent tied to paddle in one hand; spare paddle and 2 fishing rods in the other hand; Flambeau fanny pack, with all of my fishing tackle, around my waist; SeaLine (dry bag) Boundary Pack 115, which must carry everything you need to survive for 30 days, strapped to my shoulders (estimated weight 65-70 pounds). All of that gear is carried over the portage and then you walk back for the Second Trip: Day pack containing maps (11), Thermos, spare glasses, first aid kit, Gortex rain gear, etc. for an estimated weight of 12-15 pounds, and the canoe @ 57 pounds. I take portages VERY slow, especially in the beginning of the trip. This first portage was listed @ 130 rods, which is over .4 miles.
Note: Portages on all maps (Fisher, McKenzie and Canadian Government) are listed in "rods". One rod = 16.5 feet, which was the average length of a canoe used by the Indians and Voyageurs. So, 320 rods = 1 mile. You can determine the length of a portage by dividing 320 into the PL (portage length).
My notes on this first portage read, "Very hilly and rocky - welcome to Quetico!" Temperature was around 82 degrees, so I was soaked with perspiration even though only wearing a Tee-shirt. First campsite beyond the portage was only a 15 minute paddle up Saganagons Lake. I would have preferred to travel further that day but obeyed the ranger's request to spend the night here. Set up camp, gathered firewood and fished until late evening (caught 6 more bass, but they were all small). Spent the rest of the night sitting by my first campfire while sipping rum cocktails. Slept very well.
END PART 1.
Besides ...... When in the He## have I ever done or listened to what anyone wants. :roll: John is a good friend and paddling buddy of mine and he has paddled more water then I know I ever will. He did the 100 miles thru the glades and then turned around and did the 100 miles back.
1st time I actually meet John was at Mohawk Canoes when he came down here to purchase a solo canoe from them for the Glades paddle. He asked me to join him at Mohawk , for some reason beyond me. :?
Before then we were e-mail buddies and I was sending him info about the Glades which he wanted to paddle , and I have done several times.
He got the canoe and spent a couple of weeks in Ocala paddling, camping and fishing to get the feel of the canoe before hitting the glades.
Since then we have paddled together and he has done the St.Johns from Sawgrass to Lake Harney and most of the rivers in Florida, Texas and the rest between here and his home in New Jersey.That should give you an idea about him but for now here is his Canada trip.
Chuck.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since this series of emails will (might) be "forwarded" to people not familiar with me, I will give a brief background of who I am.
Name is John Depa, I am a retired school teacher, age 61, weight 150 pounds, very good looking? I was introduced to paddling about 4-5 years ago through Bill Logan's book/video on paddling the Suwannee River. That was my first extended trip: Crossed the swamp (Okefenokee) 30-40 miles and then went "over the sill" (earthen dam) into the Suwannee and down the next 210 miles to reach the Gulf. I was in no rush (never am when there might be the possibility of a fresh fish dinner) so the trip took 21 days. After that, I was "hooked on paddling" and have since done (maybe) another 3,000 - 4,000 (5,000?) miles. It has become a way of life for me, six months of the year (and getting longer).
I always paddle a solo canoe, but often go "out of my way" to meet up with friends that I have made over the years: Bill, Chuck and Mac (all Floridian's) being my closest, but have also met-up with others from 3 different states. Paddling is, in and of itself, the greatest pastime/life-style one could imagine, but the added bonus of meeting some of the nicest people on the face of the earth is a BIG plus. "I have never met a paddler that I did not like"!
During the course of this report, I will relate the gear I used, what went right and what went wrong, and what I would do differently next time. Would also appreciate feedback from other paddlers to aid me on future trips.
About the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, Minnesota - Quetico, Ontario, Canada. Robert Beymer, author of several books on the area, describes them as...
BWCA - "...a paradise for the wilderness canoeist. Stretching for 200 miles along the Canadian border of NE Minnesota, this magnificent wilderness offers over 1,200 miles of canoe routes through some of the most beautiful country in the world. At over a million acres, it is the second largest unit of our National Wilderness Preservation system."
Quetico- ".. Provincial Park is among the finest canoe country in the world. Spanning a region of almost 1,800 square miles in western Ontario, Quetico is laced with hundreds of miles of interconnected waterways through some of the most beautiful canoe country in the world."
There are some major differences in the way each country manages its section of the wilderness area:
Camping: In the BWCA you must camp at a designated site, each of which is equipped with a fire grate and outdoor toilet. In Quetico there are no "improvements" and camping is permitted anywhere you can find level ground. However, there are many sites that have been used over the centuries and one would be foolish not to take advantage of them.
Permits: BWCA issues over 250,000 (quarter million) permits each year. Quetico issues 20,000.
Fees: BWCA permits cost $10 and is valid for as long as you wish to stay. Quetico is $12 Canadian, (which is about $9 US) per day - per person. So, my 30 day trip in BWCA would cost a total of $10, while the same trip in Quetico cost $270 US.
Power boats: Are permitted in limited areas of the BWCA. No power boats, or even sea planes, are permitted in Quetico.
Restrictions: Cans and bottles are not permitted in either area. And, there is talk of banning aluminum foil as well.
Sat. 9-6-03: Left NJ at 8 AM and drove 750 miles to South Bend, Indiana. Was tired by then so looked for a motel. Turned out that Notre Dame was playing football that day so everything was "booked". Wound up in some "flea-bag" dump that cost me $45, and I had to buy drinking water from the station across the street.
Sunday, 9-7: Drove to the town of Grand Marias, Minn. Arrived about 6 PM. Total mileage was 1,432. This is the last "anything/anytown" before you head up the Gunflint Trail (57 mile dead-end road) to launch into either BWCA, or Quetico. Tried several motels in Grand Marias and they were VERY expensive ($70-90) but found one that was GEM (clean, well kept, warm, coffee in room, etc.) for $35, Larson's Rest Stop. One minor problem, they do not allow smoking in ANY of their rooms. Ate dinner at the local VFW (on advice) and ordered the $7 chicken platter special - EXCELLENT BUY!! Also had what would be my last few beers for a long, long while.
The trip begins:
Day 1: Monday, 9-8
Up early for breakfast, fueled the truck and headed up the Gunflint Trail. Was informed that the only place to buy an Ontario fishing license (on the USA side) was the Gunflint Lodge, so I stopped there (about 35 miles up) and bought one- $27 year (conservation: 2 fish limit per day). I had been in contact with several outfitters via the Internet, so I stopped at each and got the "nitty-gritty". First two were going to close for the season on Oct. 4th, and upon my return, I would have to walk a mile to get back to my truck. Went to Voyageurs Outfitter and found them to be the best solution. They live there year round and the woman I dealt with, Marilyn, was very accommodating. Unloaded the gear and parked my truck (cost was $30 for 30 days). By 11 AM my canoe was loaded on their launch boat and Sarah was speeding me across Saganaga Lake (a big one) to the closest island allowable (by power boats) to the Canadian ranger station, which is located on an island in Cache Bay. Cost of the shuttle launch is $28, one way, or $35 round trip. The shuttle saves you 6 miles of paddling through a potentially rough lake that is open to power boats.
Sarah dropped me off at Hook Island and gave me a "heading" to reach the Canadian Ranger Station. Paddled over there (less then 2 miles) in about 45 minutes. Jean, the Ranger, was very helpful, in fact she (kinda' ) gave me a break. Permits into Quetico are VERY, VERY limited. We had called her via VHF (or CB?) radio but by the time I arrived the next-to-last permit had been issued to another solo paddler (female). Jean said she would give me a permit if I promised to stay at the first campsite above Silver Falls, so as not to interfere with the quality of experience for other paddlers: I agreed to do so. I paid for a 10 day permit, which I thought would be enough time for me to reach the Canadian town of Atakokin (a distance of 55 miles), where I could "check in" with my family, re-supply, purchase a new permit and take a longer route back to Voyageurs Outfitter. Two years ago, I had driven to Atakokin and launched a 9 day trip into Quetico. So, I was familiar with the area and town.
Note: In order to enter Canada via the wilderness area, you must possess a Remote Area Border Crossing permit. RABC permit must be obtained in advance through the immigration office (by mail) at Thunder Bay. Cost is $22 and the permit is valid for 2 years.
It was still early afternoon when I left the ranger station, so I took a leisurely paddle/troll across the 3 miles of Cache Bay to the first (of many) portage at Silver Falls. My canoe, a Mad River Independence, is fitted with 2 adjustable rod holders (that I simply love) so I often troll 2 fishing rods. Caught (and released) 3 smallmouth bass before reaching the portage.
First portage is always the toughest: You are "out of shape" physically and are "fully loaded". I was not sure about stopping at Atakokin, so I had packed enough food (to be supplemented with fish) for a full 30 days. I have to "double-carry" over every portage and do it as such: First trip - Tent tied to paddle in one hand; spare paddle and 2 fishing rods in the other hand; Flambeau fanny pack, with all of my fishing tackle, around my waist; SeaLine (dry bag) Boundary Pack 115, which must carry everything you need to survive for 30 days, strapped to my shoulders (estimated weight 65-70 pounds). All of that gear is carried over the portage and then you walk back for the Second Trip: Day pack containing maps (11), Thermos, spare glasses, first aid kit, Gortex rain gear, etc. for an estimated weight of 12-15 pounds, and the canoe @ 57 pounds. I take portages VERY slow, especially in the beginning of the trip. This first portage was listed @ 130 rods, which is over .4 miles.
Note: Portages on all maps (Fisher, McKenzie and Canadian Government) are listed in "rods". One rod = 16.5 feet, which was the average length of a canoe used by the Indians and Voyageurs. So, 320 rods = 1 mile. You can determine the length of a portage by dividing 320 into the PL (portage length).
My notes on this first portage read, "Very hilly and rocky - welcome to Quetico!" Temperature was around 82 degrees, so I was soaked with perspiration even though only wearing a Tee-shirt. First campsite beyond the portage was only a 15 minute paddle up Saganagons Lake. I would have preferred to travel further that day but obeyed the ranger's request to spend the night here. Set up camp, gathered firewood and fished until late evening (caught 6 more bass, but they were all small). Spent the rest of the night sitting by my first campfire while sipping rum cocktails. Slept very well.
END PART 1.