Day 30: Tuesday 10-7
Had another great campfire last night, and the moon reflecting off the lake was a spectacular sight. Shrill cry of the loons added to the atmosphere. Woke at daybreak, but did not get out of my toasty, warm sleeping bag until 7:30 AM. Temperature is 40 degrees, clear sky and the lake is smooth. Should be a repeat of yesterday's balmy weather.
Made a fire under the cast iron grate and boiled 3 pots of water; tea, wash hands, Lipton's noodle soup. A previous camper made a fire ring about 2' away from the grate: They should have placed it right next to the grate. That way, you could have a larger fire at night and still be able to cook on the grate. This campsite is located 25' above the lake, at the top of a large rock. Quite a climb getting the gear up, but the view is worth the effort. Tent area is tucked back in the sheltered woods, and the ground covered with pine needles. Wouldn't mind spending another night here, but supplies are too low. Launched at 9:30 AM.
Ottertrack Lake was dead calm, and I was able to troll it's 5 mile length in 2 hours: Did not get a hit. Next portage (80R) even has a name, "Monument Portage". It is so named because there are 3 "monuments", brass survey markers, along it's length. Each one is cast is bronze and set in concrete; they stand 3-4' tall. On one side, in raised lettering is United States, and the other side Canada.
Note: After the French and Indian war, a treaty was signed to define the boundary between the two countries. It was agreed that the boundary would be the center of each lake, that was traditionally used by the fur traders. When a portage is reached, that trail becomes the boundary. So, technically, while walking a the portage, you have one foot in each country.
It is quite obvious that the US Forest Service has been busy here. The landing at the portage was so wide that it could be seen from a mile away. Rocks, at the water's edge were removed and neatly stacked ashore. The "uphill" climb is made easier by the addition of logs that form steps: each log held in place by stakes driven into the ground. At the far end, the entrance to Swamp Lake, a long, 150' raised pier has been constructed over the muddy area. There is even a small floating dock to facilitate launching the canoe. Welcome back to Yuppie-ville!!
Only a 1/2 mile paddle to the LAST PORTAGE !!! (5R), into the southern end of big Saganaga Lake. Temperature has reached an amazing 83 degrees, so I soaked my feet for awhile and paddled barefoot the rest of the day. Saganaga could be treacherous, if not impossible, to paddle on a windy day, but there was only a slight ripple on the water as I made my way over the next 6.5 miles. As I got nearer to Rocky Point, I began to hear, and see power boats. Now I know my trip is almost over. One power boat dropped a canoe at Hook Island, the place where my trip had begun. As I watched the solo paddler make his way across Cache Bay, to the Canadian ranger station, I could not help but feel a tinge of sadness.
Once around the point, I paddled to a campsite located on a small island, within the BWCA. This site had a fire pit right next to the cast iron grate, so I was able to have a nice fire and cook on the grate at the same time. Went through the ritual of setting up camp and gathering firewood for the last time. Was sipping cocktails by 5 PM. Big moon rose early and created a great atmosphere for my last night.
Day 31: Wednesday 10-8
Woke at 7 AM to another sunny morning. Where was all of this nice weather a week ago? Started my last campfire, under the grate, and went through the usual morning ritual. I had one packet of Bisquick left, and an ounce of cooking oil, so I decided to use both before returning to Voyageurs Outfitters. By that time, the fire was low and the pan never got hot enough. The result was an "oily glob". I took one bite and walked the rest back into the woods for burial. Launched at 9 AM.
I am only 5 miles from my truck, and a cold beer; 3 miles across Saganaga Lake, and 2 miles up the Seagull River. Northwest wind had picked up and the ride got a little "sloppy". There are a number of small islands to duck behind, but they really don't offer that much protection. Was happy to finally turn south, into the Seagull. A short distance up river, I spotted a BWCA and stopped for a stretch, tea break. Every site has a grate and toilet, but the toilet is often not easy to find: This one was way atop a steep hill. From there, I could see the first of the many houses that line the river: Sad sight!
As I continued on, 3-4 power boats passed, but they were all courteous enough to reduce their wake by slowing down. Arrived Voyageur Outfitters just before noon. Beached the canoe and walked up to the store to let them know I had safely returned. Marilyn was happy to see me and said she had worried somewhat, especially during the snow. I had left the ignition key in my truck, and given them the door access code, in case they had to move it for some reason. Punched-in the numbers and nothing happened; tried again, and this time it (barely) unlocked. All I got from turning the key was a few "clicks" - dead battery. Reached into the cooler and got out a (almost) cold Black Label beer. That beer sure tasted good!! Opened another and used the public telephone to check with family: Everything fine on that front. Walked back to the store to explain my plight and Mike, the owner, got my truck started with a power booster. I offered him money, but he flatly refused.
Note: Had I used one of the other outfitters, I would have been in a bind. After walking a mile, from landing site to my truck, I would have found the place "closed for the season". Then what?? Loaded the gear onto my truck and headed back down the (57 mile) Gunflint Trail, to Grand Marais. Booked a room at the same motel and took a LONG, HOT SHOWER. Drank a few more beers and then went over to the VFW for dinner. Next morning, I headed back to NJ, taking the slower, but more scenic route through Canada: Arrived home 3 days later.
You can bet your bottom dollar I will be back next year!!
Had another great campfire last night, and the moon reflecting off the lake was a spectacular sight. Shrill cry of the loons added to the atmosphere. Woke at daybreak, but did not get out of my toasty, warm sleeping bag until 7:30 AM. Temperature is 40 degrees, clear sky and the lake is smooth. Should be a repeat of yesterday's balmy weather.
Made a fire under the cast iron grate and boiled 3 pots of water; tea, wash hands, Lipton's noodle soup. A previous camper made a fire ring about 2' away from the grate: They should have placed it right next to the grate. That way, you could have a larger fire at night and still be able to cook on the grate. This campsite is located 25' above the lake, at the top of a large rock. Quite a climb getting the gear up, but the view is worth the effort. Tent area is tucked back in the sheltered woods, and the ground covered with pine needles. Wouldn't mind spending another night here, but supplies are too low. Launched at 9:30 AM.
Ottertrack Lake was dead calm, and I was able to troll it's 5 mile length in 2 hours: Did not get a hit. Next portage (80R) even has a name, "Monument Portage". It is so named because there are 3 "monuments", brass survey markers, along it's length. Each one is cast is bronze and set in concrete; they stand 3-4' tall. On one side, in raised lettering is United States, and the other side Canada.
Note: After the French and Indian war, a treaty was signed to define the boundary between the two countries. It was agreed that the boundary would be the center of each lake, that was traditionally used by the fur traders. When a portage is reached, that trail becomes the boundary. So, technically, while walking a the portage, you have one foot in each country.
It is quite obvious that the US Forest Service has been busy here. The landing at the portage was so wide that it could be seen from a mile away. Rocks, at the water's edge were removed and neatly stacked ashore. The "uphill" climb is made easier by the addition of logs that form steps: each log held in place by stakes driven into the ground. At the far end, the entrance to Swamp Lake, a long, 150' raised pier has been constructed over the muddy area. There is even a small floating dock to facilitate launching the canoe. Welcome back to Yuppie-ville!!
Only a 1/2 mile paddle to the LAST PORTAGE !!! (5R), into the southern end of big Saganaga Lake. Temperature has reached an amazing 83 degrees, so I soaked my feet for awhile and paddled barefoot the rest of the day. Saganaga could be treacherous, if not impossible, to paddle on a windy day, but there was only a slight ripple on the water as I made my way over the next 6.5 miles. As I got nearer to Rocky Point, I began to hear, and see power boats. Now I know my trip is almost over. One power boat dropped a canoe at Hook Island, the place where my trip had begun. As I watched the solo paddler make his way across Cache Bay, to the Canadian ranger station, I could not help but feel a tinge of sadness.
Once around the point, I paddled to a campsite located on a small island, within the BWCA. This site had a fire pit right next to the cast iron grate, so I was able to have a nice fire and cook on the grate at the same time. Went through the ritual of setting up camp and gathering firewood for the last time. Was sipping cocktails by 5 PM. Big moon rose early and created a great atmosphere for my last night.
Day 31: Wednesday 10-8
Woke at 7 AM to another sunny morning. Where was all of this nice weather a week ago? Started my last campfire, under the grate, and went through the usual morning ritual. I had one packet of Bisquick left, and an ounce of cooking oil, so I decided to use both before returning to Voyageurs Outfitters. By that time, the fire was low and the pan never got hot enough. The result was an "oily glob". I took one bite and walked the rest back into the woods for burial. Launched at 9 AM.
I am only 5 miles from my truck, and a cold beer; 3 miles across Saganaga Lake, and 2 miles up the Seagull River. Northwest wind had picked up and the ride got a little "sloppy". There are a number of small islands to duck behind, but they really don't offer that much protection. Was happy to finally turn south, into the Seagull. A short distance up river, I spotted a BWCA and stopped for a stretch, tea break. Every site has a grate and toilet, but the toilet is often not easy to find: This one was way atop a steep hill. From there, I could see the first of the many houses that line the river: Sad sight!
As I continued on, 3-4 power boats passed, but they were all courteous enough to reduce their wake by slowing down. Arrived Voyageur Outfitters just before noon. Beached the canoe and walked up to the store to let them know I had safely returned. Marilyn was happy to see me and said she had worried somewhat, especially during the snow. I had left the ignition key in my truck, and given them the door access code, in case they had to move it for some reason. Punched-in the numbers and nothing happened; tried again, and this time it (barely) unlocked. All I got from turning the key was a few "clicks" - dead battery. Reached into the cooler and got out a (almost) cold Black Label beer. That beer sure tasted good!! Opened another and used the public telephone to check with family: Everything fine on that front. Walked back to the store to explain my plight and Mike, the owner, got my truck started with a power booster. I offered him money, but he flatly refused.
Note: Had I used one of the other outfitters, I would have been in a bind. After walking a mile, from landing site to my truck, I would have found the place "closed for the season". Then what?? Loaded the gear onto my truck and headed back down the (57 mile) Gunflint Trail, to Grand Marais. Booked a room at the same motel and took a LONG, HOT SHOWER. Drank a few more beers and then went over to the VFW for dinner. Next morning, I headed back to NJ, taking the slower, but more scenic route through Canada: Arrived home 3 days later.
You can bet your bottom dollar I will be back next year!!