Spokeshaves
- Thread starter beekeeper
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Re: Sokeshaves
I can't comment on the others, but my Stanley has never given me any headaches.
It works great and the blade is easy enough to remove for honing, and replacing.
It holds an edge nicely and is simple to adjust.
Mine is for shaving on the flat. They also make a convex and concave which I have never felt the need for.
I can't comment on the others, but my Stanley has never given me any headaches.
It works great and the blade is easy enough to remove for honing, and replacing.
It holds an edge nicely and is simple to adjust.
Mine is for shaving on the flat. They also make a convex and concave which I have never felt the need for.
Re: Sokeshaves
I own all three shapes ,but they are old so I dont know the brands. They do a good job ,but on boats I use the smallest block plane I can find seems to work the best for me.
Ron
I own all three shapes ,but they are old so I dont know the brands. They do a good job ,but on boats I use the smallest block plane I can find seems to work the best for me.
Ron
Re: Sokeshaves
I like the multiple adjusting screws that the stanley and wood river have over the single adjustment screw of the kunz.
makes it easier to finesse the blade
I like the multiple adjusting screws that the stanley and wood river have over the single adjustment screw of the kunz.
makes it easier to finesse the blade
Re: Sokeshaves
Are you talking when you glue up the strips or finishing it inside after it is glued.
Ron
Are you talking when you glue up the strips or finishing it inside after it is glued.
Ron
Re: Sokeshaves
Finishing it inside after it is glued, if I understand you question correctly.
My strips were not glued into panels and then assembled. They didn't need beveling because the bead and cove allows them to fit together as they bend. It was the traditional strip build method, strips glued together as they are clamped to stations.
After glueing the strips around the radius of the chine, the bead and cove strips needed more rounding (blending together). The transition from the flat bottom to the straight sides was much tighter than the normal curves of a canoe or kayak. The 3/4" wide strips created minie size flat panels that were not rounded over. Rounding the outside was easy work for the sanders. Rounding the inside was not. I used a disk sander chucked in a drill and then a LOTT of hand sanding. The circumference of the chine changes and does not match the disc.
I also thought about cabinet scrapers, but I have had no experance with them either.
beekeeper
Rontx river rat said:Are you talking when you glue up the strips or finishing it inside after it is glued.
Ron
Finishing it inside after it is glued, if I understand you question correctly.
My strips were not glued into panels and then assembled. They didn't need beveling because the bead and cove allows them to fit together as they bend. It was the traditional strip build method, strips glued together as they are clamped to stations.
After glueing the strips around the radius of the chine, the bead and cove strips needed more rounding (blending together). The transition from the flat bottom to the straight sides was much tighter than the normal curves of a canoe or kayak. The 3/4" wide strips created minie size flat panels that were not rounded over. Rounding the outside was easy work for the sanders. Rounding the inside was not. I used a disk sander chucked in a drill and then a LOTT of hand sanding. The circumference of the chine changes and does not match the disc.
I also thought about cabinet scrapers, but I have had no experance with them either.
beekeeper
Re: Sokeshaves
That is always a problem with the full strip boats, getting the inside smooth.
This bunch of builders here in my area dont use the bead and cove anymore , they just use a small block plan to relieve the inside edge of the strip. Everyone that has tried gave there dead and cove bits away.
I really dont have any suggestions on your problem with the inside :shock: Just a lot of elbow grease and sand paper.
Ron
That is always a problem with the full strip boats, getting the inside smooth.
This bunch of builders here in my area dont use the bead and cove anymore , they just use a small block plan to relieve the inside edge of the strip. Everyone that has tried gave there dead and cove bits away.
I really dont have any suggestions on your problem with the inside :shock: Just a lot of elbow grease and sand paper.
Ron
Re: Sokeshaves
Maybe a rounded sanding block? The hard foam stuff that florists use to hold bouquets of posies in place cane be easily shaped along an edge. Leave extra stock to hang onto, wrap sandpaper around the shaped edge, and sand off rough edges.
Maybe a rounded sanding block? The hard foam stuff that florists use to hold bouquets of posies in place cane be easily shaped along an edge. Leave extra stock to hang onto, wrap sandpaper around the shaped edge, and sand off rough edges.
Re: Sokeshaves
Cabinet scrapers are great to have around. You can get different shaped blades for then or even custom make your own. They do fast work of drips and runs too. I use mine for a lot of pre-sanding work, saves on time and paper. You will be surprised how many times you will reach for them after you use one.
Cabinet scrapers are great to have around. You can get different shaped blades for then or even custom make your own. They do fast work of drips and runs too. I use mine for a lot of pre-sanding work, saves on time and paper. You will be surprised how many times you will reach for them after you use one.
Re: Sokeshaves
The bead and cove was not the problem. It would have been the same beveling the strips. The strips rolling around the curve between sides and bottom (chine) gave it a blocked apearance. If the boat had more flaired or rounded sides, or less width in the bottom the strips would have made the turn better.
The bead and cove strips fitting together made finishing easier for me. The strips I added without them tended to not fit flush with each other and required more sanding. Did not think to clamp them together between the stations. I did learn to plane/remove the inside lip of the cove when doing tight rolls. That allowed the strips to rotate more without opening on the outside edge.
Thanks
beekeeper
tx river rat said:That is always a problem with the full strip boats, getting the inside smooth.
This bunch of builders here in my area dont use the bead and cove anymore , they just use a small block plan to relieve the inside edge of the strip. Everyone that has tried gave there dead and cove bits away.
I really dont have any suggestions on your problem with the inside :shock: Just a lot of elbow grease and sand paper.
Ron
The bead and cove was not the problem. It would have been the same beveling the strips. The strips rolling around the curve between sides and bottom (chine) gave it a blocked apearance. If the boat had more flaired or rounded sides, or less width in the bottom the strips would have made the turn better.
The bead and cove strips fitting together made finishing easier for me. The strips I added without them tended to not fit flush with each other and required more sanding. Did not think to clamp them together between the stations. I did learn to plane/remove the inside lip of the cove when doing tight rolls. That allowed the strips to rotate more without opening on the outside edge.
Thanks
beekeeper
Re: Sokeshaves
I run the curved one over some fine emery cloth then on my wet stone.
The flat blades that go in the draw handle ( like the scraper you get from Lowe's ) are cheep enough to discard and replace.
I run the curved one over some fine emery cloth then on my wet stone.
The flat blades that go in the draw handle ( like the scraper you get from Lowe's ) are cheep enough to discard and replace.
Re: Sokeshaves
I'd never seen a rounded scraper, and was looking for something like that a few years ago when I was carving a white ash yoke for portaging. Are both convex and concave available? Where are you buying these? What features/brands should I look for or avoid?
I'd never seen a rounded scraper, and was looking for something like that a few years ago when I was carving a white ash yoke for portaging. Are both convex and concave available? Where are you buying these? What features/brands should I look for or avoid?
Re: Sokeshaves
Harbor Freight has a cheep one ( that's what I have ), it comes with multiple blades, flat, convex, and concave. The only problem is they are small, like 1.5 inchs wide. But they do hold an edge well and work fine. Go on line and look up a store called Woodcraft, they carry the nice ones, the real deal cabinet scrapers. I think they also carry the block planes with the convex and concave blades for backing out planks and rounding off. They have just about everything you can drool over as far as wood tools and tool sharpeners. The Woodenboat store also carries the nice scrapers, but Woodcraft has the same stuff, at a better price.
Harbor Freight has a cheep one ( that's what I have ), it comes with multiple blades, flat, convex, and concave. The only problem is they are small, like 1.5 inchs wide. But they do hold an edge well and work fine. Go on line and look up a store called Woodcraft, they carry the nice ones, the real deal cabinet scrapers. I think they also carry the block planes with the convex and concave blades for backing out planks and rounding off. They have just about everything you can drool over as far as wood tools and tool sharpeners. The Woodenboat store also carries the nice scrapers, but Woodcraft has the same stuff, at a better price.
Re: Sokeshaves
I went to the Woodcraft web sit. I didn't see the block planes in convex or concave, but they did have all the scrapers and the carbide blade scrapers in flat, convex, and concave.
I went to the Woodcraft web sit. I didn't see the block planes in convex or concave, but they did have all the scrapers and the carbide blade scrapers in flat, convex, and concave.
Re: Sokeshaves
I think Bees biggest problem is the changing angles he is working with,it is a problem for every builder I know.
Ron
I think Bees biggest problem is the changing angles he is working with,it is a problem for every builder I know.
Ron