Sat 9 May 09: Arrived at Bud Hart's cottage near Frederic about 15:00 Jimmy Wingo & Toby Nipper followed me in. We greeted, got the cottage opened up, and I started some marinara sauce to simmering. Guys were pulling in one by two, and we soon started the spaghetti a boiling and garlic toast a toasting. Betsy Pifer, Jim's wife, brought a big salad. We had Eye-tal-yun subagettee, audacious garlic toast, salad, and wine. JARVIS good eatin'!
Paddlers on the first leg are Al Dasen from Oscoda MI, Al Wells from California, Toby Nipper of Florida, Jimmy Wingo of Georgia, Scott Olson of Okemos MI, Greg Shannon of Haslett MI, Jim Pifer of Eaton Rapids MI, Dave Pifer of Milwaukee WI, and Bud Hart, Jack Voss of East Lansing MI.
Sun 10 May: We all rendezvoused at Big Boy Restaurant for breakfast. Tom & Nancy Brooks, good friends and vehicle shuttle drivers, joined us at Mothers' Day breakfast. We drove a quarter mile to Penrod's Canoe Livery where we always do business. Jim Humes is as good as they come. (800-GO-RIVER) After we loaded up all nine boats, filled water bottles, bought goodies at the store, took pictures, and said our good byes, we straggled out into the stream. At this point, the Au Sable is about 20' wide and knee deep. It doesn't get much bigger until the South Branch joins in below White Pine campground tomorrow.
In about 2 ½ hours we were at Au Sable River Canoe Camp, and spiked in. Scott rode in the bow of Greg's expedition canoe. Scott used to race in the marathon here when he was a 14 year old kid. He paddled some with Verlen in those days. Scott's paddle is from that era, before the days of carbon fiber. It is a 15” wide scoop shovel. I've never seen a larger blade on any paddle – or any pizza scoop either, for that matter. It sure could grip water!
Mon 11 May: It was 14 degrees last night. That's about 20 degrees colder than I'd planned for. ETAI!
About 20 minutes after launch, we pass Burton's Landing campground. Tom Brooks was out taking our pictures on orders from his wife, Nancy. A couple of years ago, Tom and Nancy took in Katie for three days when she got wet and cold. They are great people and we're lucky to have such friends.
We are paddling in smaller groups, as 9 boats clog up the river. Lots of fishermen, all friendly. We arrived at White Pine CG about 14:30 – 15:00. Guess what – I'm not the only one who likes practice naps!
Tue 12 May: We launched about 09:30, same as yesterday. This many people get moving slower than a smaller group. No sweat. Arrived at Parmalee Bridge about the same time as we hit camp yesterday. Same drill – set up camp and take a practice nap. We called a local restaurant at Red Oak Station, they picked us up in a Chevy pick up, and we rode a few miles. Great dinner, as we most all started out with pie first. Rhubarb pie has some devotees in this group! After dinner, Scott was playing Greg's guitar, and on one ditty, Al Dasen started dancing a lively jig. He dropped 50 years right on the spot. Big $h!t eating grin, lots of arm and shoulder action, and some moves I hadn't seen since the days of Chubby Checkers. It was good medicine for him, fer sure. He went to bed pretty soon afterwards.
Wed 13 May: Today is the day that we start to run out of river, and start to hit a dam reservoir. Mio pond (they call the 3 mile long reservoir a “pond”) had white caps and 20-26 mph winds. All Dasen and I were running sweep position in the rear. We both got blown off to the left and entered a cove we didn't want to. We rendezvoused, rested a minute or two, and started out again ghosting the shore for shelter. About a quarter mile up, Al pulled off. I went back and we decided to wait out the wind, and bivouac overnight if necessary.
A cuppa tea and a nap later, the wind had subsided. We started out again. We met two, large loons who dove and swam around us for about 10 minutes. What a sight! We hit camp about 15:30, last dogs home.
Greg had already departed because of business. We set up camp & rested. Later, we went to town at the Au Sable River Restaurant for dinner. Tom Brooks joined us there. Gator and my Son, Eric did too. They will paddle the second leg of the trip. Scott Olson, Greg Shannon, and Al Dasen paddled the first leg. We had a rousing time at dinner, and Toby fell in love – twice, I think. Then, back to camp for adult beverages and seegars.
Thu 14 May: Damned wind has changed directions, and is driving 2 foot white caps into the face of the dam at the portage steps. The face of the dam isn't smooth concrete; it is broken and jagged. Waves drive the boats up and down a couple feet, waves wash over into the boat as it lays alongside the dam, fingers get smashed in between boat and dam, boats take a beating on the jagged edges of concrete, bags get thrown up over our shoulders on to the upper steps, one boat floods and nearly sinks, my boat had about 7 gallons of water in it when I dragged it up over the edge and up the steps to the dirt above. Al Wells' boat was full, and we had to dump it to even get it up to the first step. Amazingly – we were all done with the portage and carrying and reloading by 08:30! I was amazed. Easy paddling now, and into Cathedral Pines – the prettiest camp ground on the river.
Fri 15 May: Easy day, easy morning. We lazed onto the river, paddled an hour, and stopped at McKinley, an old logging town. The bar has great hamburgers and beer. Both breakfast and lunch for us. Another couple hours of easy paddling and we reached Gabions Forest Service camp ground, the last one for us on this trip.
Gabions is on the Shore to Shore Horse Trail that extends across Michigan from Lake Michigan to Lake Huron. We camped right on the trail. We'd seen lots of wildlife along the way. White tailed deer, weasel, bald eagles, beaver sign, coyote howls, owl hootings, Canadian geese, Hooded Merganser ducks (we think, anyway), mallards, king fishers, loons, red breasted gros beaks, etc. I like the spring for the wild life, but two weeks later would have had 10 times the population. Katie and I have seen mink along here several times.
Sat 16 May: Last day – finish the trip – off load – up load – say good byes – wish well and safe trips – while I always look forward to completing a trip, I always am sad at this stage. I felt the same way when I left the group in Viet Nam – glad to be going home, but sad at leaving friends behind.
This trip has grown, and it seems to fill some needs and wants of a few paddlers. We attract motivated and skilled paddlers and campers, and that makes all the difference in the world. Two criteria separates the fly specks from the pepper: (1) Can I trust this person with my Life?, and (2) Are they good to get along with? Each one must pass both, no exceptions.
When it all comes down to the final analysis, it's the people that make a trip good or bad. Conditions affect that, to be sure. But when guys cooperate, contribute, and take care of themselves, it makes a trip so much more enjoyable. My personal thanks to everyone involved. I hope to continue to do these trips for years to come. And, if I can't, someone else can please carry on?