BWCA/Quetico | SouthernPaddler.com

BWCA/Quetico

caddepa

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2003
63
0
New Jersey
I just completed my 6th trip into the BWCA/Quetico wilderness area, this time spending a total of 4 weeks divided almost equally between the US and Canadian sides. Previous trips have been during Sept-Oct, but this year I went from the first week in August thru the first week of Sept. An earlier trip meant more mosquitoes and paddlers but offered better fishing and bathing opportunities. This is a paddling paradise anytime the lakes are free of ice.

I will not go into detail on specific routes because without a map the reader would not be able to follow anyway. The combined two areas cover millions of square acres and contain hundreds (thousands?) of lakes and rivers which are inter-connected by streams and/or dry land portages. This particular trip probably covered 60-70 miles of “loops” during which I camped on 20 different lakes and traveled through at least twice as many more. It also required crossing 42 portages for a total of (roughly) 5.5 miles. Sounds like a lot, but when averaged over 28 days it breaks down to less than 2.4 miles of paddling and .2 miles of portage per day - not really that demanding, even for an old geezer like me.

My launch base was once again "Voyaguer Canoe Outpost" located at the end of the Gunflint Trail, 55 miles north of Grande Marais, MN. I have used this outfitter for my past 4 visits and am very happy with the service.

The first launch of the trip is always accompanied by mixed emotions: This canoe feels awful “tipsy” - Did I forget anything? - Let the adventure begin!
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My canoe is a Hemlock, Peregrine solo that measures 15’-9” of Kevlar weighing 38 LBS.
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Close-up shows adjustable aluminum portage yoke, adjustable fishing rod holders, thwart mounted compass and bungee cords for holding maps in place.
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The trip began on the American side, known as the BWCA (boundary water canoe area). Camping is restricted to deignated site, each of which has a cast iron campfire grate.
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All of the sites have a spectacular view.
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Every site also has a "throne", though some of them are a bit exposed.
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All evening meals were prepared on the campfire to conserve fuel, but I used a Coleman, Exponent stove for breakfast. Note the grits :)
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Photos cannot do justice to the natural beauty.
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Some areas still show the results of forest fires; Nature's way of replenishing.
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The tent is a Bibler, I-tent, a single wall 4-season model that was a bit of overkill in such warm weather.
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I also carried a Cooke-sewing tarp that kept me out of the rain on a few occasions.
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Camping on the Canadian side, in Quetico, is much less restricted. Camping is permitted anywhere: There are no designated sites and the only "improvement" is a rock campfire ring.
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A highlight of the area is the excellent fishing. Main species are, small mouth bass
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Pike
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Trout
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Walleye
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In addition to the sport, they provide great campfire meals.
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However, some are just a bit too large to fit in the pan. But what fun to catch and release :)
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Many of the lakes are connected by streams.
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Some of which are much too shallow to paddle.
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Others with rapids too swift
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And many that end in spectacular waterfalls
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In addition to numerous other wildlife, I saw many American bald eagles.
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He was ever watchful for a free fish carcass meal
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And was quick to claim the spoils
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A fact of life is the much dreaded portage, which is really not that bad if one takes them slowly (as I do)
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Some are actually a pleasant walk
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While others are quite steep and rocky
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They often provide interesting sights, like the remains of an unfortunate moose
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And always end at the next lake, the next adventure
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And every so often end with that rainbow we all seek
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But all good things must come to an end, as must any trip
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Until next year :wink:
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
John...

That's sure some pretty country you were paddling and camping in. Looking at the water it is nice to see clear water up there like we have down here in a lot of our spring fed rivers.
One other thing is all the rocks , no sand bars and all evergreen trees , no Cypress. Now I know why you enjoy paddling there and down here , sure is a change in scenery when on the water.
I would imagine that the evenings and nights you did have one advantage and that would be the fresh , crisp , smell of the Christmas Trees ( evergreens ) as the air cooled down.

I also figured out why I have not heard anything with Mac , he must of been the photographer on those pictures of you , the giveaway on that is all those fish you had in the pictures. We all know that if you want to catch any fish we have to have Mac do it. :lol: OK... Stop cussing at me , shaking your fist along with roiling your eyes.......

The area near the waterfalls sure looked like some good fishing territory , heck all the water looked good. A campsite with the view you had I know you were fishing after camp was set up. That tent looked like a comfortable one plus with the tarp makes a roomy camp , Did you take the hammock ?

Thank's for the trip report , now I know why the kids keep telling me I need to get up there.

Chuck.
PS. Good picture of the grits. :D
 

caddepa

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2003
63
0
New Jersey
Jack,
I bought the portage yoke in the Adirondacks about 8 years ago. It was originally made by/for We-noh-na to adjust to their various solo models. Cost around $120 back then. Apparently they don't make that style any longer. Closest I could find is this seat clamp-on model.
http://www.boundarywaterscatalog.com/br ... ,7865.html

As for the "muskie", it's actually a pike. As far as I know, muskies are not found that far north; at least they are not listed as being indigenous to any of the lakes I have fished up there.

Gatormac,
An open invitation was posted on the website for a month in advance of the trip. If you would turn your computer on more often than once every 3 months you may have seen it :p . I know you would have jumped at the chance to do 6 miles of portage!!! :shock: Maybe next year :arrow:
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
86
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
I should have gone back to look closer - it is a northern. Bloody big one. One look down that mouth, with all the teeth pointing backwards, is enough to convince any fisherman to keep his fingers clear. Looks like the mouth of a moray eel.

There are muskies near Peterborough, but you are in different territory there.
 

caddepa

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2003
63
0
New Jersey
Chuck,
You mention that Mac, or someone else, had to take some of the photos. That's a big drawback of paddling solo, one never gets to be included in pictures.

The pic of me paddling was taken by 2 (cute) ladies I met at a portage.

The one of me carrying the canoe was likewise taken at a portage; this time by one of 4 guys.

The pike shot was taken by a group of campers near where I hooked the fish. There was no way that I could remove the hook to release that pike while still in the canoe, so I put the rod in a holder and slowly paddled over to their campsite. They were a group of 4 young couples, one of which were having a wedding ceremony that very afternoon. They work for the US Forest Service and thought this an appropriate setting. I agree :)

I caught a larger pike (43") a few days later but had no way to get a photo. Both fish were released in healthy condition to fight another day. I was told by a Ranger that fish of that size are probably 25-30 years old. :eek:
 

Paddlin'Gator

Well-Known Member
Feb 2, 2008
148
0
Tequesta, FL
Thanks for the great report, John. I have only paddled in the BWCA once, in September 1966, and have wanted to get back ever since. It looks as beautiful as ever, but with a lot more restrictions now.

That Peregrine canoe is the same one you had when we paddled the Withlacoochee, isn't it? I remember trying it for a few minutes one day with no other load in it and thinking "Man, this baby is TENDER", but it sure was fast.

If you have more pictures, torture us some more :wink:

Joe
 

catfish

Well-Known Member
Feb 7, 2007
996
3
jesup, ga.
hey john glad to see you made it back to civilization. :wink: :lol: john i,m like the rest wow!!! you always have good post & pics. like ive said before some of us may not be able to go to some of these places yet. :cry: :cry: but it is like you and other guys on this forum that makes all the difference.

hey look jack whats on the stove gritzzzzz

nice pics thanks for sharing . maybe some more of us including myself will be retarded i mean retired one day. :mrgreen: :) :lol:
 

caddepa

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2003
63
0
New Jersey
Hi Joe, you wrote
That Peregrine canoe is the same one you had when we paddled the Withlacoochee, isn't it? I remember trying it for a few minutes one day with no other load in it and thinking "Man, this baby is TENDER", but it sure was fast.

Yes, I think I did have the Perigrine on that trip. And yes it is "tender" but a pleasure to paddle and portage. Probaby a better boat for a larger man would be the Mad River, Malecite that you paddle. Get your butt back up there before you get too old. :)

John