tx river rat said:
Ron, is that a bench mount auto feed planer, or a hand held electric planer.
Thanks
Dan
Gluing strips on a stripped boat
- Thread starter DCRICE
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Ron, is that a bench mount auto feed planer, or a hand held electric planer.
Thanks
Dan
Not sure what Ron does, but I ran my strips through the bench planner before glue up. My boat was made with strips on a form, not strips made into panels. I have ran panels of glued strips through the planner as you would a whole board to level the strips and remove the hardened glue. Not a panel for a boat. You would be on your own for that .
I have an electric hand planner but does not work well for me. OK for rough work but I can't master it for finesse work. A small hand plane would work on single strips but There are a lot of them.
I have an electric hand planner but does not work well for me. OK for rough work but I can't master it for finesse work. A small hand plane would work on single strips but There are a lot of them.
Thanks Bee, Ron. Still thinking and playing with things.I probably will not buy a bench planer for this project, maybe later.I guess I will just burn up a couple more Harbor Freight sanders.
Thanks
Dan
Thanks
Dan
get a scraper, learn to put a burr on the blade,
cheaper than buying a power planer, quicker than sanding
cheaper than buying a power planer, quicker than sanding
I have done panels with sander , scraper ,hand plane and a bench mounted . They will all work ,but there is no comparison between the rest and the bench planer, it leaves you with no humps and bumps and I can do a 17 ft panel in less than 5 min ,with a scraper or sander you are talking hours to get a comparable surface to what I am going to get with the bench planer.
Now if you really want a top notch finished fast job find someone with a 36 in drum sander ,ohhhhhh they do a fantastic job
Ron
PS I also cut my strips thicker than I want and run them through the planer before I start gluing up the panels ,sure makes it a lot easier to build panels with strips that are uniform in thickness. Personally I wouldn't build another ss@g without my planer.
( I am spoiled)
Now if you really want a top notch finished fast job find someone with a 36 in drum sander ,ohhhhhh they do a fantastic job
Ron
PS I also cut my strips thicker than I want and run them through the planer before I start gluing up the panels ,sure makes it a lot easier to build panels with strips that are uniform in thickness. Personally I wouldn't build another ss@g without my planer.
( I am spoiled)
I used a vibrating ( Orbital ) Sander and it seamed to take forever to do a section of one panel. Then I got the bright idea to get that large belt sander and use it. It did the work a lot faster and sure made plenty of wood flour for me. I was emptying that bag , what seamed like , every few minutes and what dust was not in the bag was all over me , I was covered from head to foot.
Plus I had a lot just from cutting the strips out from the boards before any sanding was done.
I had bags and bags of the wood flour to use for fillets on it and a lot of boats and even some I gave to several builders that asked me for some.
Only smart thing it did was to set the panels up on sawhorses outside of the shop. The yard was even covered in redwood dust. The 2nd and last smart thing I did was to use a good dust mask on myself.
I learned at an early stage that Cedar and Red Wood have a oil in them that when a person inhales the dust it gives them a SPLITTING HEADACHE. Not even mentioning that the dust from the wood is also considered a poison.
When sanding either of any boards from those woods it makes sense to get it done as quick as possible and do not breath in any of the dust , I would of loved to have had a bench planner to run the wood threw. If I was going to make more strippers you can bet I would have one.
Plus I had a lot just from cutting the strips out from the boards before any sanding was done.
I had bags and bags of the wood flour to use for fillets on it and a lot of boats and even some I gave to several builders that asked me for some.
Only smart thing it did was to set the panels up on sawhorses outside of the shop. The yard was even covered in redwood dust. The 2nd and last smart thing I did was to use a good dust mask on myself.
I learned at an early stage that Cedar and Red Wood have a oil in them that when a person inhales the dust it gives them a SPLITTING HEADACHE. Not even mentioning that the dust from the wood is also considered a poison.
When sanding either of any boards from those woods it makes sense to get it done as quick as possible and do not breath in any of the dust , I would of loved to have had a bench planner to run the wood threw. If I was going to make more strippers you can bet I would have one.
Thanks Guys for all the advice. I read a little bit, think a little bit, and try a little bit. I built the second side panel this morning, and it is better than the first.
Shows what even a little experience will do. I spent the last hour sanding on the first panel, and it will get there, but it is going to be slow. The wood sands fine, but the
Titebond III slows everything up. I will be on the look out for a 10" thickness planer for my next build. I will use the sanding on this one for exercise.
Matt, yes that is the modified Laker 14. Kind of a Lake Cruiser mini or Pond Cruiser. Laker 14 bottom with short sides and tumblehome.
Just a few steps at a time. I will learn.
Dan
Shows what even a little experience will do. I spent the last hour sanding on the first panel, and it will get there, but it is going to be slow. The wood sands fine, but the
Titebond III slows everything up. I will be on the look out for a 10" thickness planer for my next build. I will use the sanding on this one for exercise.
Matt, yes that is the modified Laker 14. Kind of a Lake Cruiser mini or Pond Cruiser. Laker 14 bottom with short sides and tumblehome.
Just a few steps at a time. I will learn.
Dan
The side panel are complete. I tried the scraper, sharpened the scraper, dulled the scraper. Tried a heat gun with the scraper. All gave some success, but not moving fast enough for me. I got out my belt sander and 60 grit belts and went to work. 2 hours later, both sides of each panel are clean level wood. I will finish the tumblehomes the same way for this boat, but there was a whole lot of sweat and elbow grease invested in getting these panels clean. I think the next boat will come after I find me a 10" thickness planer.
I have learned a lot in the past week:
I didn't think that that I could cut repeatable 1/4" strips. But with the guide that I built for the table saw, they were within 10 thousands or so. Very close.
I didn't think I could handle the panel with just glue on the 1/4" side. But the titebond III glue joint is fantastic. No need to worry about the panel coming apart.
I learned that titebond III is a bitch to get off. What is that stuff?
Thanks for the help. It should all be downhill from here.
I have learned a lot in the past week:
I didn't think that that I could cut repeatable 1/4" strips. But with the guide that I built for the table saw, they were within 10 thousands or so. Very close.
I didn't think I could handle the panel with just glue on the 1/4" side. But the titebond III glue joint is fantastic. No need to worry about the panel coming apart.
I learned that titebond III is a bitch to get off. What is that stuff?
Thanks for the help. It should all be downhill from here.
I have had this scraper, a couple years and it has not needed sharpening.
http://www.rockler.com/three-blade-shavehook
Titebond 111 is great glue. Try cleaning (scraping} the joints after it sets (about 30min.), but before it gets rock hard (24 hr.). I have found putting the glue on both pieces to be joined and then waiting a couple min. and you can see the dry areas and the excess places. This keeps from using too much. I have used wood flour mixed with the glue as a filler, but it does not match the wood color. Wet glue can be wiped with a damp (not wet) towel. Keep the water away from the joint.
I can't tell by the pictures, but were you able to bend the 1.5" strips to follow the curve of the panel or did you build a panel and then cut the curve? The wood looks pretty. Are going to paint or natural finish?
beekeeper
http://www.rockler.com/three-blade-shavehook
Titebond 111 is great glue. Try cleaning (scraping} the joints after it sets (about 30min.), but before it gets rock hard (24 hr.). I have found putting the glue on both pieces to be joined and then waiting a couple min. and you can see the dry areas and the excess places. This keeps from using too much. I have used wood flour mixed with the glue as a filler, but it does not match the wood color. Wet glue can be wiped with a damp (not wet) towel. Keep the water away from the joint.
I can't tell by the pictures, but were you able to bend the 1.5" strips to follow the curve of the panel or did you build a panel and then cut the curve? The wood looks pretty. Are going to paint or natural finish?
beekeeper
That is a sharp looking tool Beekeeper. I will get me one of those. On the top side of each of the panels, after 24 hours, the glue was hard as a rock, but on the bottom, next to the plastic when I flipped them over, it was still gooey. I am not sure what triggers this stuff to harden, but it wasn't getting it next to the plastic. So I dealt with different problems at different times.
The wood strips are 1 1/2" and were easily bent to match the top contour of the panel. This was a deflection of 1 3/4".from center line to end 7'. The tumblehome bend will be a deflection of 6 1/4" in the same distance. I played with 1 1/4' strips for this bend and it looks like this will be a firm bend but will work.
Its all fun, except I am in the market for a thickness planer. It was 93 degrees today and real humid. I almost ran out of sweat during the sanding. But it did help the sanding dust to stick to me.
Dan
The wood strips are 1 1/2" and were easily bent to match the top contour of the panel. This was a deflection of 1 3/4".from center line to end 7'. The tumblehome bend will be a deflection of 6 1/4" in the same distance. I played with 1 1/4' strips for this bend and it looks like this will be a firm bend but will work.
Its all fun, except I am in the market for a thickness planer. It was 93 degrees today and real humid. I almost ran out of sweat during the sanding. But it did help the sanding dust to stick to me.
Dan
The heat and the belt sander whipped me yesterday. I am still not recovered. I need for some one to grill me some of Chucks special burgers. I am too tired to do it myself.
So I changed my mind about using the sander on the tumblehome panels.
Sears has a sale on the 12 1/2" thickness planer. I have on on the way. A new toy to play with next week.
Dan
So I changed my mind about using the sander on the tumblehome panels.
Sears has a sale on the 12 1/2" thickness planer. I have on on the way. A new toy to play with next week.
Dan
Everything seems to be fitting together real well. Would you guys fit the tumblehome at this stage or wait till the bottom is finished first. I can't decide if the tumblehome is part of the hull or the top.
Install the tublehome now.
On the planer, I've never done "strip-stith-and-glue" so help me out. Are you guys sending the entire panel through the planner after it's glued up? If so, do you ever have to adjust the path of the long panel since it is curved and it's "flat XY" dimensions might exceed the width of the planer blades?
On the planer, I've never done "strip-stith-and-glue" so help me out. Are you guys sending the entire panel through the planner after it's glued up? If so, do you ever have to adjust the path of the long panel since it is curved and it's "flat XY" dimensions might exceed the width of the planer blades?
I don't think I have planed a curved panel, but curved (warped) boards tend to follow the shape of the board as they pass thru the planner. I would place the outside of the curve next to the side rail of the planner. It would be a shame to have a panel chewed up trying to save a little work.
Planning the individual strips first will reduce the sanding. Using bead and cove strips also helps, keeps them flush with each other and may make a stronger joint and reduce the glue seam. Titebond111 does leave a dark seam. Other glues may blend better and would work as well with the wood glassed. Learning to manage the amount of glue is a skill that will greatly reduce the amount of finish work needed. I struggle with that one.
beekeeper
Planning the individual strips first will reduce the sanding. Using bead and cove strips also helps, keeps them flush with each other and may make a stronger joint and reduce the glue seam. Titebond111 does leave a dark seam. Other glues may blend better and would work as well with the wood glassed. Learning to manage the amount of glue is a skill that will greatly reduce the amount of finish work needed. I struggle with that one.
beekeeper