Gluing strips on a stripped boat | Page 3 | SouthernPaddler.com

Gluing strips on a stripped boat

tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
I have done a bunch of straight and curved panels so I am going to go through it step by step.
This may get long.
Cutting strips
if you are using a board with rough edges before you start cutting strips run it through the planer on each side just for a clean up ,it will help you on the gluing of the strips.
I cut my strips thicker than I want for the finished strip and then plane both sides to so that i finish with a 1/16 thicker strip than i want in my finished panels,

Panel Layout
i build a table longer than my finished boats, put a straight strip down one side to use as my guide to measure from. I then lay my panel out and mark it on the table,then cover with saran wrap. For an example lets do a laker , I will layout from the center line of the plans (bottom middle) and that goes next to my line up strip ,I will lay enough strips to give me cutting room on the ends and outside edge I use a brad nail gun and cut strips when I nail them across the panel until it dries ,this makes it very easy to remove the brads. After doing both panels for the bottom I set them aside to dry after the saran wrap is removed
Then I go on to the side panels doing the same thing and then on to the tumble holmes.
I use a 13 inch ryobi planer , here is a little trick that will keep you from cutting a divot where you stop and start planing. Purchase a straight 1 by 12 8 ft long . open your planer and lay it on the bed 4 ft on each side then just proceed as normal ,it will keep your panels and strips flat. I always start out with the panel shoved to the top part of the curve, that lets you plane as much as you can before the panel comes into contact with your guide post, the guide post will take care of the feeding through the planer.
I always run my panel through glue side up till I get a smooth surface on that side then flip it over and do the other side till you hit your finish dimension.

Cedar is soft so use several small cuts instead of a heavy cut with the planer

I have used tight bond II and III I prefer the II and it seems to leave a clear finish where the III is dark

Cove and bead is not for me , I gave my bits away , it seemed to be a ton of trouble and no benefit ( my findings and yours may vary )

I dont use a scrapper on my panels ,the planer will clean them up with no problem

Run one side of all panels then adjust and run all panels again ,etc till you reach the thickness you want, this will help keep everything to the correct dimensions and make your edge fit up much easier.

I dont glass or coat my panels ,I do the whole boat at once

In my area marine plywood is 80.00 a sheet a four sheet boat 320.00 dollars
Material for strips is about 60.00 You can pay for your planer on the first boat you use strips instead of marine ply.

In my opinion ss@g glue can be built lighter,stronger and more durable than ply boats.

A little background , the first ss@g boat I ever saw was a perow Chuck built ,he used strips to make flat panels (strip sheets ,with straight strips) I looked at his method and came up with the curved panels and using the planer this let you carry the design and grain with the outline of the boat.
This is the only way I build now ,and I get questions from all over the world as they try this method.
Ron
I hope this helps
 

tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
Opps Matt
If your xy measurements exceed 13 inches you just make that panel in 2 pieces and glue then you have to sand just one joint.
Ron
 

JEM

Well-Known Member
Good input Ron.

My site has been silent with new published designs for a long time, Hope to change that soon. This sort of input helps me keep things in mind as the cost of marine ply goes up and the quality of all other ply goes down.
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,917
59
JEM said:
Install the tublehome now.

........................... and it's "flat XY" dimensions might exceed the width of the planer blades?

I assumed the "flat XY" width would be the width of the size board you would need to cut the panel from if you were making it from a solid board and not bending strips to make the arch. Yes or no? Example = a 12" board with a 2" arch cut from one side, one end to the other, would = a 10" wide panel but "flat XY" would = 12".


beekeeper
 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
Thanks for the explanation Ron. But I think that I am too woodworking "dumb" to understand it. I think that I understand the 2X12. You just put the boat panel on it, and it supports it flat for 4' into and 4' out of the planer.
The feed into the planer for me is a little more confusing. This week I will plane my tumblehomes. Should I start with the end of the curve fed into center of the planer. Will the planer pull the panel around the arc (this will cause the planer blades to be cutting with the grain) or should I start with the end fed into the planer on the side opposite the arc and the planer will pull straight through (here, the only time the blades are cutting with the grain is in the center of the panel)?
Sorry I am so dense, but I have be thinking of this all day. Glad that you guys had already started talking.
Dan
 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
It will be some time before the tumblehomes go through the planer and are ready to install. The hull was true and the lines straight, so I put the epoxy to it. 1 coat of epoxy on the seams, let it harden, and then epoxy/wood flour out of the ketchup squeeze bottle. 2 3 ounce batches of the fillet. The hull is now 6 ounces heavier.

 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
Still waiting on my planer. When it arrives, I will document any success or failure that I have.
Chuck, what did you sift the sawdust through to create the wood flour from your strip pirogue?
I have a little time now, and would like to match the colors on the top side better than the RAKA hard wood flour
will provide.
Thanks
Dan
 

tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
You will love the planer.
Sanding dust from a belt sander is normally ok but if you have a piece of screen wire or a tea strainer it will work great.
A little trick is to use white flour with the wood flour to lighten the color.
Ron
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
DCRICE said:
Chuck, what did you sift the sawdust through to create the wood flour from your strip pirogue?
I have a little time now, and would like to match the colors on the top side better than the RAKA hard wood flour
will provide.
Thanks
Dan

One of those hand sifters you can locate in the grocery store. A wire handle and frame with a piece of screening in a half bowl shape.
 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
Thanks for the help Guys. Ron, I got the screen off a small window, put it on a 5 gallon bucket, and now have 3 gallons of nice wood flour.
Chuck, that is what I was looking for when I wrote the post. I didn't have on in the kitchen. In fact, I don't think I have seen one in years.
Do people sift flour any more?
Dan
PS: Sears called, and the planner is here. New toy tomorrow.
 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
I picked up the planer from Sears this morning and began to play. When I was brave enough, I started working the 2 tumblehome panels.
This thing is great. 30 min. later, another big pile of sawdust, and the panels were uniform at .210". A little final layout and they slipped onto the boat.
Thanks guys, this has been a great thread for me. You have taken me through cutting strips, gluing strips, and finishing strips for small boat building. All has been successful and the final product will be a beautiful boat.
Dan


 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
86
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
That was my thought too, Matt. Not alternate dark/light strips. Good fishing boat.

In fact, I think I saw a school of chinkapins lurking in the bushes nearby, just waiting for a chance to get caught and fried up.
 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
Hey Guys I have another question. RAKA now has a Raka UV Inhibited Epoxy System. I stayed with the thin 127 resin and slow hardener.
Has anybody used this UV stuff, any tests on the UV protection?
 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
Hey Guys, another question. This boat came in at 38 lbs. with 6 oz. glass inside and out, about 1.8 gallons of epoxy/resin, and (after planeing) strips at .21". I was planning (hoping) for low 30's. Where will the best weight savings be? 4 oz. glass will only save 2.5 lbs.. I don't think any of the epoxy on the boat is wasted. How thin can I plane the strips and still build a solid hull?
Thanks
Dan

 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
Thinner wood makes a lighter boat.
My 1st Pirogue was at 50 pounds with 1/4 inch wood , I figured it could be lighter so I went with 1/8th inch wood on the 2nd one and the pirogue was 32 pounds ( the seat weighed 2 pounds ) , both boats were 15 1/2 feet.

The 14 canoe ( Sasquatch from Jem Watercraft ) weighs 30 pounds and that is with a 2 pound canoe seat. It was made with 1/8th inch wood and the canoe is glass encapsulated.
The 17 1/2 foot kayak ( Pygmy Coho ) came out at 40 pounds and again is with 1/8th inch wood.

I epoxy saturated the wood and glassed it on both sides of each boat. The epoxy saturation helps to strengthen the wood along with the glass later on. You can't use them as battering rams but they are really stronger then you would expect for such thin wood. One canoe ( A Selway-Fisher Peterborough ) took a beating on some rapids and I was sure it had had it but it was not damaged and continued down the Buffalo River. Later on when checking it there were nothing more then some scratches on the bottom of it.

Chuck.
 

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
Thanks Chuck. I was hoping that the wood could be a big weight savings. I do epoxy saturate the day before the glass. Then lite sand and lay the glass. I should be getting chemical bond according to the RAKA web site. I am still looking to master the workmanship to build my boat for all around Louisiana stuff. Weight is important because most places I go have no improved launch areas so this old guy has to use his broken body to carry the boat (wish I had done less damage when going through the thunder years). The Okwata that I built is the most stable for a day of fishing and playing but is a little over 50 lbs. with plywood. My goal (at this time) is to build a stripped, open top Okwata at 38 lbs..
Dan
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
86
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
Dan, thinner wood, and probably plywood, will help lighten it up. Epoxy is seductive. We want a good boat, and a strong boat, so we feel OK slopping on the glue. Try to apply 2 ounces of it - and scraping off 3 ounces. Like varnish, very thin coats are better.

I have a hard time following this advice myself.