I have started the Bayou Skiff.... | Page 6 | SouthernPaddler.com

I have started the Bayou Skiff....

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
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oldsparkey said:
The seats are beekeepers handicraft and I do like the idea of the swivel base , would drill a drain hole in the flat part in case of rain. This way the water would not back up and get into the bearings in the swivel portion.
Chuck.

The two large holes shown in the first pictures should drain the water. They also allowed acess to the bolts for assembly. Hope this is a better view:
IMG_1034.jpg


Weight conscious builders will not like this base. The swivel and plywood add weight. A light weight swivel and less wood in the base is needed. Time and use in the real world will dictate the changes needed.

beekeeper
 

shikeswithcanoe

Well-Known Member
Feb 4, 2010
63
0
An idea for a lighter and more waterproof and perhaps even better performing swivel base.

People who make large (ones that look like massive mortar tubes) homemade telescopes called Dobsonians solved the swivel problem years ago. They use a flat sheet of formica on one surface, and on the other they have 3 pads of teflon. They also have a center bolt, but thats just to define the center of rotation and to keep the top from coming up off the bottom.

Some types of formica are better than others, but they all work pretty well. The teflon can be a pain because you can't really use anything to glue it to something else. You have to use mechanical fasteners, so the teflon has to be thick enough so that you can countersink your screws or nails, otherwise you tear the hell out of the formica in short order.

You can adjust the amount of effort it takes to turn it by adjusting the pad sizes and how close or far away they are from the center bolt.

The nice thing about this method is the friction is low enough that its easy to overcome, but its not so low that your things spin freely. Once you stop rotating, things pretty much stay put. And the stopping, starting action is NOT jerky, because unlike most other bearing methods/surfaces, the effort to keep it in motion is GREATER than the effort to get it started, so you don't get that push hard then break loose and move easy action you get with so many types of mechanical widgets. When done right, you'd swear you had thousand dollar bearings in there instead of something so cheap and simple.

You HAVE to use REAL formica and REAL teflon though. There is stuff out there that looks like both, but it isnt and doesnt work nearly as well. Do an internet search for telescope making supplies/teflon and you can probably find some. If you don't want to buy a giant sheet of formica, hardware and cabinet/countertop places often have scrapes for cheap.


Just an idea.
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
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Central , Florida
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beekeeper ....

Thanks for clearing that up , they were not visible in the picture with the seat on the swivel base. I'm not worried about the weight since I intend to have the skiff on a trailer. Plan on getting it from Harbor Freight , the one they have for boats 14 feet and shorter. As far as boat trailers go ( around here ) it is inexpensive at $329.00
Figured it would be a lot easier to pull it up on a small trailer then trying to overhead rack it on the Jeep. Besides this way I can leave the stuff in it when taking out or returning. With some luck it might even include a small cooler with some Bass in it. :wink:

Chuck.
PS. Not sure if a pair of 6 1/2 or 7 foot oars would even fit in the Jeep , best to leave them in the boat.
 

oldsparkey

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Aug 25, 2003
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Central , Florida
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You will not believe it but things warmed up a little today so I did manage to get some epoxy to flow , mixed it with some wood flour and finally capped off the holes from where I pulled the screws.

With some luck tomorrow I might be able to do some more sanding and actually epoxy saturate the boat getting ready to glass the outside of it in a day or two.

Things are looking up for boat building.........

Mick......

You still might have yours made before mine ....... I have to glass it , the re coat it with epoxy , sand it , a couple of days right there. Then mask off the bottom and prime it ... two days between the priming it and sanding a lot of the primer off.
Then masking it again and painting the bottom ... each coat needs 16 hours to cure before the next one is applied and I do three coats ....... That comes out to about 7 days since I let it sit 24 hours before a light sanding , cleaning and the next coat.

Then I let it cure for 2 or 3 weeks before flipping it over and even thinking about varnishing it ... Sanding , cleaning it and applying the varnish , then repeating the whole process since I am using two different varnishes. One for UV protection and one for looks.......
Not even thinking about some extras I want to add on the skiff before it gets to that stage , or after it , some I am still fighting with my self about. Yep... The three of us , Me , Myself and I are having a good time figuring things out. :lol:

Yep.... I am looking at sometime in April to have it done , then I need to find someone to put a drain plug in the transom of it or spend about $40.00 for the flanging tool and $3.00 for the brass tube to fit in there. ( Dam I wish I would of keep the flanging tool when I was working and finishing out boats when I 1st got married back in 65 ) "O" Well hind sight is 20-20 . :lol:

Anyway ...... It is looking up as far as getting the Skiff done before Summer gets here ........If there will be a Summer.

The pictures could start again tomorrow on the build....... For those who like pictures........ :wink:
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,917
59
shikeswithcanoe
Thank you for the teflon idea. The telescopes don't look very heavy. I wonder how it will work with the weight of a person? Probably have to build one to know. May be some other "outside the box" uses for teflon for our boats.
This site has teflon and other supplies; http://www.mcmaster.com/#

beekeeper
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
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Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
Back in business...... :D
After a dry spell ( so to speak , really a cold one ) today it got into the upper 60's so I managed to get the Skiff epoxy saturated.

bayou%20skiff%20051.jpg


bayou%20skiff%20052.jpg


If this weather holds up glassing is next then the bottom work with the primer for the Teflon paint , then the paint with 16 hours between applications. I may get this one done before Mick has his in the water. :lol:

Chuck.

NOTE:
After the epoxy sets for about an hour I take a foam brush and lightly rub it over the epoxy , this breaks up any small bubbles that have formed and I had a ton on them on this boat since I epoxy saturated it as the weather was warming up and not cooing down. The boat was warming up and the air escaping (expanding in ) the wood causes the bubbles. It is best to epoxy saturate a boat when it is starting to cool down , this way the weather helps to draw some of the epoxy into the wood.
 

jdupre'

Well-Known Member
Sep 9, 2007
2,327
40
South Louisiana
Yaaaayyyyy! Warm weather here too. Going to start the tacks on the decks. It seems like a year since we've had decent weather.

Looking REAL good, Chuck.

Joey
 

shikeswithcanoe

Well-Known Member
Feb 4, 2010
63
0
"shikeswithcanoe
Thank you for the teflon idea. The telescopes don't look very heavy. I wonder how it will work with the weight of a person? Probably have to build one to know. May be some other "outside the box" uses for teflon for our boats.
This site has teflon and other supplies; http://www.mcmaster.com/#"



I've seen it used on telescopes that weigh much more than a person does, so its certainly workable. Do keep in mind that it is low, but smooth friction. If you want to swivel with extreme easy (very low friction), a lazy susan type bearing as discussed here is still going to be better. But, on the other hand, a lazy susan bearing won't "lock" into place like a teflon/formica system would. So which is better would depend somewhat on circumstances and personal preference.

Something obvious, at least in hindsight. You want your formica surface to be the downward facing surface and the teflon pads to be the upward facing surface. If you do the opposite, the formica surface becomes a nice place for sand/grit/gunk to accumulate and embedd on the teflon and mess up the formica.
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,917
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shikeswithcanoe

Thanks for the additional thoughts about the teflon swivels. I only looked at one telescope in my search. It was made from cardboard. My ignorance shows again.

beekeeper
 

mike

Well-Known Member
Jun 29, 2009
694
9
TEXAS!
Teflon disks are also used in lieu of grease on 5th wheel trailer hitches. I don't know if they would work for a seat, but you can see one HERE.

Mike
 

oldsparkey

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Aug 25, 2003
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Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
Managed to get the skiff glassed today , this is the transom before I trimmed it. The white along the seams is reflected light , nothing but wood shows when standing there looking at it.

bayou%20skiff%20053.jpg


Not much difference between the epoxy saturation and the glassing except that the 1st coat of epoxy on the glass takes some of the luster away , Light sanding then filler coats tomorrow.

bayou%20skiff%20054.jpg


The last bunch of epoxy as a touch up I mixed up and started using it , set the tub of it down and did some trimming when I noticed SMOKE rising on the other side of the skiff...... That was one HOT batch of epoxy. Time to call it quits and take a break. I did set the jugs of epoxy in the sun to warm them up but did not know or expect for them to get that warm.... Cold epoxy takes a lot longer to set then sun warmed epoxy. :lol:

Chuck
 

oldsparkey

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Aug 25, 2003
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Central , Florida
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Got busy this morning and have the bottom covered with the Filler Kote for the Brightsides paint. Have to let it set for 16 hours so tomorrow I will be able to sand it and get on the 1st coat of the paint.
Should be early afternoon since I have two cardiology appointments in the morning hours.

bayou%20skiff%20055.jpg


:lol: :lol: Before you ask , the primer is white the bottom will be a dark green when it is done. My 1st boat ( about the same design as the skiff ) was all dark green. That was in the days before epoxy and you had to paint them.

Chuck.
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
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Central , Florida
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I need to add.....if anyone is thinking of using this...........

With the Polyurethane Brightsides paint they advise to only use it under well ventilated conditions and it is best to wear an approved , properly fitted respirator when spraying it. Since the chemicals in it may affect the brain or nervous system causing dizziness, headache , nausea or eye , skin , nose and throat irritation.

They are not joking....... I use a roller to apply it and I have the fans on , doors wide open along with all the windows in the shop when I do that and it still stinks ..... It is some potent stuff when applying it. You do not want to use it in confined areas but the Teflon in it sure makes it slick.
On the Brazos I bottomed out on some rocks in a small rapid and could hear the bottom of the canoe squeaking as I forced it over and off the rocks , I knew I had gone threw the paint and probably some of the glass...... Returning home .. I checked , expecting the worse , and all I did was to put a small scuff mark on the bottom paint that did not go threw it. Just that mark showing where it was in contact with the rocks , nothing more.

One other thing ... It is very a combustible liquid and even the vapors so you have to keep it away from any flames or sparks.

Yep.. This is the guy that posted about using the epoxy and graphite mix on the bottom of the boats. Which a lot of mine have..... Well , I like to try new stuff and offer that information so a person has choices. The Polyurethane Brightsides paint does cost a lot more and especially with the Pre-Kote they suggest. Plus between applying the two of them it can add a week or more to the build between the 6 applications , sanding and more applications of each of them ... unlike the epoxy and graphite , three coats , three days and you are done.

Chuck.
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
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Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
The weather is cooperating today , over 60 degrees ( 62 ) so I managed to open the shop up and get the 1st coat of the Brightsides Paint on the bottom. It's been almost an hour and I can still smell the stuff , it is quite potent. It is a little bright right now but two more coats the next two days will darken it since this 1st layer is over the white Pre-Kote which I did sand down.

Two coats will be about the same as the center of the boat where I overlapped this 1st coat.

bayou%20skiff%20056.jpg


Chuck.
With some luck I should be able to take it out of the shop ( this time next week ) turn it over and move it back in and complete the inside since the outside will be done. ( As in ........Bottom painted and sides varnished and stripped )
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
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Central , Florida
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Have been talking to one of the guys on the back channels ( email ) and he said this........when I told him I am calling this is the Geezer Speed Build on the Skiff , due to the weather slowing me down or just stopping me a lot of the times.

He suggested ........ In place of calling it the Geezer Speed Build on the skiff , I think the "Berserker Build" might be more appropriate.
Then he added ......... Your build is taking it to a limit most folks don't even know exists. ( Keep that thought in mind )

My reply.
I like the term ....... "Berserker Build" ... That describes me to a "T" , Just trying some different stuff so if someone wants to go a little Krazy on there build they know one screwball has lead the way. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Great Complements like that ( It was a complement ) are really nice when it comes to building boats and BOY Does he Know me and that I will do something different when I can.
They are our boats when we build them so why not have them the way we want them and offer that information to everyone , that is the beauty of this forum. We are just not normal folks when it comes to building boats and have some dang good ones to show for it.

I like the term ......."Berserker Build" ... As I said ..... That describes myself and especially a lot of you out there on this forum reading this. Most of you are trying some different stuff so if someone wants to go a little Krazy on there build they know one screwball has lead the way and there boat even floats. Heck we even help them to do the same . :wink:

Chuck.
We do think outside the box , :lol: Most of the time.
 

captaindoug

Well-Known Member
Nov 18, 2009
142
0
71
Tampa Bay, Florida
Looks really good so far Chuck. The sides on the Bayou Skiff are 12" correct? What is the transom height, 14" , 15" ? Just wondering if a filler block will be needed to get the cavitation plate level with the bottom of the boat when using an outboard? You could always make a baby jack plate if that was an issue I guess.
http://www.dillon-racing.com/jackplate/index.htm (free plan)
Can't wait to see pictures of her floatin'