Nother new build | Page 2 | SouthernPaddler.com

Nother new build

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
skbilly said:
Hey, thanks for the quick reply Chuck. I Know, I just have to jump in and do it, don't know why it has me so nervous. :oops:

I think everyone gets that way when they 1st do the glassing... After it is done you probably will sit back and say , Not that bad.
I could be wrong but a person thinks of the work that has gone into the boat , then the new and untried job of glassing and if I mess this up the boat is shot and there goes all my work. The fear of the unknown.
Just don't rush it , take your time and be methodical about it. It is forgiving and can be worked like anything else. :D If you trim it wrong along the ribs an simple fillet over it hides everything.

I like glassing , it is fun watching it disappear as the work progresses along.

Chuck.
 

skbilly

Member
Oct 12, 2009
24
0
65
Kansas
I saturated the inside yesterday, didn't turn out too bad:

025.jpg


Notice shop is getting to be more of a mess.
 

bluegrasslover

Well-Known Member
Feb 18, 2009
202
0
54
Willow Springs, NC
skbilly said:
Well, I am still confused about a few things. Since the inside is the hardest I am going to do it first. I plan on glassing the whole boat, OK ,questions....
I did the outside first because it was easier and I had never done any fiber glassing. I was nervous as crap about doing it but it really wasn't that bad.

1. If I epoxy saturate the whole boat, do i brush that on or use a spreader? What grit sandpaper do you use to prepare for the glass?
I think folks are all going to say something different. I tried the roller but hated it. I used a spreader that I liked but it was difficult to do parts that weren't flat. Mostly, I preferred using a chip brush. Try several tools and I think you'll find the one that suits you best.

2. When you do the inside, i assume you start in the bottom and work up the sides? Where do you stop (where will the top, and bottom joint be?) Does the glass just conform to go over the ribs?
I had the same question. Do not attempt to glass the ribs! Here's what I did as a first timer. I cut the the glass to fit between the ribs and long enough to go over the gunwales. I taped the glass to the outside with blue painter tape to hold it in place. Once you start applying the epoxy it's going to move around a bit and you'll have to make positioning adjustments (at least I did). When this happened I just pulled the tape made the move then restuck the tape. An after thought for me was that it might have been better to start with the bottom, let it cure a little to hold it in place then do the sides. I just had problems with the glass pulling away from places that I had already epoxied while applying to other areas.
3. Do you pre cut the glass oversize, and trim it to fit when the epoxy is still a little soft?
yes, but wait for the epoxy to cure. It cuts ez with something like a box cutter.
 

skbilly

Member
Oct 12, 2009
24
0
65
Kansas
Well this is frustrating, I got her all glassed. Let it set for 17 days. Sanded and wiped down with acetone, put on a coat of Epifanes high gloss, and it won't dry! I called Epifanes costumer service, and they said I should of used water first to remove the amine blush, then sanded or better wet sanded. I painstakingly removed all the sticky varnish with lacquer thinner. Then I wet sanded the boat with 220. Now I am scared to do anything because of fear of having to strip and sand again. Help!!!! I want to get this finished so I can start the Bayou Skiff. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

seedtick

Well-Known Member
Jul 22, 2006
1,161
7
Denham Springs, LA
water and acetone are both polar solvents, they will both dissolve the amine blush

however since the acetone evaporates so quickly, it's easy to have it dissolve the amine then redeposit it as it drys. So you not really washing away the amine, you're just moving it around. Water, IMO, is way better - cheaper, non-toxic, less flammable.

The other thing about Epifanes - did you thin it down as recommended or did you try to put on a thick layer?

My experience is that unthinned Epifanes applied too thickly will skin over - dry at the top of the layer and this prevents the bottom of the layer from drying.

humidity and cool weather also slow down the drying process - i typically don't varnish below 60 degrees
 

skbilly

Member
Oct 12, 2009
24
0
65
Kansas
Thanks for the quick response, I thinned it 50% with Epifanes thinner. The garage is heated to 72 degrees at 25% humidity. Epifanes told me not to thin it at all, that is only for bare wood. Is this stuff for the Pros? Is there something more user friendly for someone that has never varnished before?