Thanks for your answer. I was thinking of using the SYP plywood as it is plugged on all layers for use as underlayment. I have always covered the boats with a layer of 4 or 6 oz. glass and epoxy. No issues with either fir or luan, even when a strap broke at 70 mph on the highway. Slowed to 55 before the boat flew off the trailer. Damage was limited to the starboard bow on a mouseboat. Only needed a patch about 6x6 inches and some glass repair over that to be good as new. Also I only tie the boats down now, no ratchet straps.jdupre' said:Bear, never used it in stitch and glue method, but my last pirogue was made with it and I'm sold on the stuff. Much better finish and almost no defects in the outer plies. I've had an un-painted small model outside in the elements for almost 3 years and no rot, very little warpage and one 6" x 1/2" delamination around a split. It doesn't check near as much as fir ply.
Most will be difficult to find. The best way I have found is to flex the sheet slightly and sight and feel for flat spots. If it looks flat tap lightly with a hammer or mallet to see if it is solid inside.texastom said:I see that advice often and understand why it's important, but not sure how to accomplish it. Unless the void is on the outside and presumably repaired with a "football", how would you know there's a void without cutting into it?
:lol: :lol: :lol: Ya don't have to buy a Rolls Royce when a Volkswagen will do the same thing. A true artisan can turn a Volkswagen into a Rolls with knowledge and skill. As far as either vehicle lasting that usually is determined by the care , consideration , respect , lack of deliberate abuse along with the proper maintenance of it.Kayak Jack said:Yes, this is likely to sprout a lot of channel-clogging talk about "how little I spent, and how long it's lasted." Some admire cheap; others don't.