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SS&G No Plans Again!

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas
Another “no plans stitch and glue build”
Recall that a while ago, I “copied” a water moccasin pirogue. I built undersized hoping to make it very light weight, it’s lightweight at 14.8#, but just too small, cramped, and tippy for this stiff 77 year old. So this build will attempt to make a boat nearly the same only bigger and more flare.
This SS &G will be different in that the strips will not follow the profile of the boat but will be flat in the panels,the bends on the tumble home of the previous attempt were to severe. I started by lengthening the sides about 14” and increasing the chine “cut back” an inch, that is a more severe rainbow shape. I also drew the sides ½ “ taller in case I later need to increase the cutback.The forms will be about 32 degrese flare with an inverted v bottom.
I’m a little braver this time, drew the sides on the glued stripped panels and cut them out. put the center form in and traced the bottom on the plastic covered table. Much easier than making luan patterns to try out.
I got lucky the flare and rocker worked out 2” bow, 1” stern. Thank you Beekeeper and Jdupree for educating me!
Time to go back out and cut out the bottom, a little oversize at first, don’t want to press my luck!


Gluing side panels


Side panels cot out



Center aft form clamped in. Rocker checked

Outline of bottom panels traced on table

Sometimes folks ask about knot holes this is how I do them

Miter saw to 45 too short strips into one long piece I guess you could call it scarfed

That's all for now, need to stitch in forms and see if bottom tracing fits.

Andy
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,675
37
Looking good. I also have scarfed strips at 45 deg. with no problems. Adjacent strips and the fiberglass strengthens them. They are less visible than just butting the two ends together.

How wide are the sides at midship, stern and bow?
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,277
94
77
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
When you are done you will have one good looking boat to enjoy , if your kids don't claim it. ;)
That's how I made the stripper Pirogue the kids took back to Canada with them. Along with the Pygmy Coho Kayak Mary claimed as hers when she saw me taking it for it's maiden paddle.

1563
 

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas

Bottom came out undersized on the stern, because I added the wide stern form after I marked the bottom duh! The boat is wider in the stern and I traced the bottom shape with only the middle form. I'll add a strip to the middle of each side and cut again
JD The floor will measure front form 23", center aft form 251/2" Symetrical would be easier.
 
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beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,675
37
Wider in the stern is good unless you want/need symmetrical. It will let you sit closer to the stern and give you better access to your fishing gear stored in front of you. The boat will have the most volume where the most load is. I try to have my boats widest point 8" to 0" behind midship. May not be best for you or your boat.

You are like me, stingy with the wood. If you would have made the floor panel 2" to 3" wider all the way around then placed it over the sides before marking you would have had enough for the adjustments. No real harm. Like you said just add another strip.

Question: After adding the "stern" form/jig did the rocker change?
 

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas
When you are done you will have one good looking boat to enjoy , if your kids don't claim it. ;)
That's how I made the stripper Pirogue the kids took back to Canada with them. Along with the Pygmy Coho Kayak Mary claimed as hers when she saw me taking it for it's maiden paddle.

View attachment 1563
Chuck, thanks for the picture. Your stripper gave me the idea to try it
 

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas
Wider in the stern is good unless you want/need symmetrical. It will let you sit closer to the stern and give you better access to your fishing gear stored in front of you. The boat will have the most volume where the most load is. I try to have my boats widest point 8" to 0" behind midship. May not be best for you or your boat.

You are like me, stingy with the wood. If you would have made the floor panel 2" to 3" wider all the way around then placed it over the sides before marking you would have had enough for the adjustments. No real harm. Like you said just add another strip.

Question: After adding the "stern" form/jig did the rocker change?
Yes, the stern rocker increased about 1/4, close enough for me, but another lesson! Some good reasons for wider in the stern, I knew I liked the TV 15 32, in retrospect I appreciate why.
 

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas
Had to take a day off from the boat, to work on the front step, demolition is done ,guess I’d better build a new one this week.Boat progressed pretty good today. I glued 2 strips to the center of each half of the bottom, when the tightbond sets I’ll get to cut the bottom AGAIN.

New strips added to the bottom
While the glue dries, it’s time to think about the tumble homes.I spent some time trying to bend strips around the forms, just too much compound curve, the strips kept breaking.So I’ll get a rough shape with cardboard, then start with a stripped panel.

The bottom is recut and stitched, the boat is squared and tie wraps tightened.

This picture I am “priming” the seams. I have sometimes left this step out, but think it helps reduce shrinkage of the fillet material.
Here the “tack welds” are done. I hope the shop stays warm enough for an overnight cure.


More later,
Andy
 

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas
The epoxy cured well overnight, so todays boat building was exciting. Removed 58 stitches(ty wraps), filled in the seams where the stitches had been, and filled 116 holes! Before filing the seams and holes I turned the boat over and checked to make sure the protective tape was still secure where the ty wraps had been. Not much change for pictures, but progess.


Andy
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,675
37
I need to get speed building lessons from you. Looking good.
Will the floor have any "ribs" or will the "V" shape make it stiff enough?
 

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas
Today’s weather didn’t cooperate. I did manage to sand the outside for a while and then had to move inside because of rain. So I turned it over and did the inside fillets. Made some technique changes, changed from zip lock “pastry bag” back to a 60ml catheter syringe. I think I prefer the syringe ( thanks for the nudge Jack). Also I usually outline the fillet with blue tape, didn’t do that today, tape works best! The pictures plainly show that.


I tried several ways to strengthen the end joints of the sides. I’ve never had one break and have settled on the dowel/epoxy method. This one will get another layer of fillet material.
I’m posting to share my techniques and to solicit suggestions and ideas about how to do better. ie, soliciting comments!

Andy
 

oldbuffpilot

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2014
436
13
77
Central Kansas and Central Texas
Today was several hours of work, but didn’t get many meaningful pictures.Sanded inside and outside with random orbital sander and 80 grit. Didn’t get pictures, but it cleaned up pretty good. Then a trip to Lowes to get an 1 ¼ “dowel to use for the keel I had forgotten about, the original Water Moccasin has a keel so I put one on. Ripped it in half and tapered the ends.Then epoxying the keel on went astray, I planned on holding it in place with screws--- not a good idea! getting under the boat was a challenge for this old body, especially the third time. two of the screws moved the keel over and two others of course just pushed it up. So some innovative clamping and shot bags hopefully solved the “epoxy the keel problem. we’ll see tomorrow.
Tapered keel ready to epoxy on.

Clamping the epoxy keel.

In this picture the bottom looks like it’s not faired well, I went and looked at it, it’s ok thankfully!
More later,
Andy
 
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