Stitch and glue without plans
For quite some time I've wanted to duplicate a popular fiberglass pirogue in cedar strip or 3mm okume because the fiberglass is just too heavy. If this sounds familiar I’ve tried before and went back to building from plans.
I have tried tracing the sides of the water mocassin several times to no avail. If Bee keeper can copy sides on tar paper I can too!
This time after reading every post I could find, I decided to “eyeball’ it.Jdupree,seedtick, and several others post have been helpful.
After reading and looking at different plans I “eyeballed” two sides first out of ramboard then cedar strips (didn’t have any Luan big enough and had lots of short cedar strip The ramboard mock up looked pretty good, I thought the sides may work. But when they were built in stiffer cedar, they had too much rocker when I tried for the 35degree flare.I know that’s a lot of flare but if Bee keeper can do it….. anyway here are pictures and questions.
This pic is with a left over rib from an uncle john type build the flare is about 20 degrees. The rocker is a little more than I want, but acceptable. Of course when I put a 35 degree form in place the rocker goes out of site about 4 to 6 “. The other pictures show more information about the panels. These panels are a little over 7” tall, I could take them down to 6” to be like the Water Moccasin. ⁷
1. How would I change these panels to make my next attempt successful?
2.My guess is much more arc in the chine side of the rainbow. Would I also need to put more arc in the sheer side?
I’m considering increasing the arc on the chine by an inch in the middle of the side. Not sure how to loft that curve. The side panels are about 7” high I could take an inch off in the middle.
3. How much would the angle of the stern and bow affect the flare and rocker.
4.I am open to any and all suggestions to make the next pair of sides and or modify these.My objective is a short fat pirogue with about 35 degrees of flare. Doesn’t bother me to start over.
Thanks,
Andy
For quite some time I've wanted to duplicate a popular fiberglass pirogue in cedar strip or 3mm okume because the fiberglass is just too heavy. If this sounds familiar I’ve tried before and went back to building from plans.
I have tried tracing the sides of the water mocassin several times to no avail. If Bee keeper can copy sides on tar paper I can too!
This time after reading every post I could find, I decided to “eyeball’ it.Jdupree,seedtick, and several others post have been helpful.
After reading and looking at different plans I “eyeballed” two sides first out of ramboard then cedar strips (didn’t have any Luan big enough and had lots of short cedar strip The ramboard mock up looked pretty good, I thought the sides may work. But when they were built in stiffer cedar, they had too much rocker when I tried for the 35degree flare.I know that’s a lot of flare but if Bee keeper can do it….. anyway here are pictures and questions.
This pic is with a left over rib from an uncle john type build the flare is about 20 degrees. The rocker is a little more than I want, but acceptable. Of course when I put a 35 degree form in place the rocker goes out of site about 4 to 6 “. The other pictures show more information about the panels. These panels are a little over 7” tall, I could take them down to 6” to be like the Water Moccasin. ⁷
1. How would I change these panels to make my next attempt successful?
2.My guess is much more arc in the chine side of the rainbow. Would I also need to put more arc in the sheer side?
I’m considering increasing the arc on the chine by an inch in the middle of the side. Not sure how to loft that curve. The side panels are about 7” high I could take an inch off in the middle.
3. How much would the angle of the stern and bow affect the flare and rocker.
4.I am open to any and all suggestions to make the next pair of sides and or modify these.My objective is a short fat pirogue with about 35 degrees of flare. Doesn’t bother me to start over.
Thanks,
Andy