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Truck Boat #2

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,437
13
#41
Jack
I like the longer glide I just need to adjust to it. I guess I'll have to make myself fish more so I can get the hang of it.

The padding is a good idea. I have been considering adding some foam to the edges where my paddle rest across the combing. I have to be careful and not let the paddle bang the wood.

Anybody know a source for closed cell foam besides pool noodles? I would prefer something in strip or tape form. A little more refined than the noodle tube shape.

beekeeper
 

jdupre'

Well-Known Member
Sep 9, 2007
2,015
3
South Louisiana
#43
Bee, I've been using a light anchor and a quick method of securing the rope since I started fishing out of my paddlecraft. The boat would always want to move out of the best position. It literally takes 5 seconds to deploy and maybe 15 seconds to weigh anchor. That is usually much less time than making a cast , repositioning the boat, another cast , reposition the boat. And the bonus is I normally catch more fish in an area because I can work it more thoroughly. Where you might make one cast to a piece of structure and move by, I make 8-10 casts from different angles and with different retrieves. It normally pays off in the long run. I use a homemade, simple jam cleat.........dump the anchor, run the rope around one side of the cleat, and give a sharp tug to jam it around the other side of the cleat.... 5 seconds..
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
9,860
36
75
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
#44
beekeeper said:
Jack

Anybody know a source for closed cell foam besides pool noodles? I would prefer something in strip or tape form. A little more refined than the noodle tube shape.

beekeeper
Go to your home improvement store or hardware store and check on the ( tube ) pipe insulation. It comes in all sorts of sizes and can be cut to size so one section would give you several pieces to use over time as the one would wear out.
Or the rolls of the foam pipe insulation tape.
 

grayduck

Active Member
Mar 24, 2014
28
0
#45
Mr Beekeeper - I love the lines on your new craft. The adjustable strongback is very cool too. More involved but I'd think you could make a light strong craft by combining your build method with Ron's strip panel method.

I put an old towel folded up over my shoulder for piro pain relief. And I'm glad you mentioned the noise factor with paddles etc. I though I was the only loud oaf in the swamp. These (mine anyways) plywood and epoxy piros sometimes seem like they are every bit as loud as an aluminum canoe I think. I would think yours are quieter without all the epoxy and glass... I've thought of throwing burlap camo in boat and putting some black foam on gunwhales where I rest my padddle for silencing some of my banging. But then what excuse would I have?
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,437
13
#46
Thanks grayduck. The main goal I had for this build was to improve(to my eyes) the lines of this boat over my other builds. I knew what I disliked but was not sure how to get where I wanted to be. After a lot of discussion with seedtick, a couple scaled models, and a few redoes with lots of tweaking I am satisfied with the outcome. Not quite as sweeping or faired as the cypress ones Keith builds(and no where as pretty) but not as boxy/angled or upturned as some of my other ones.
Strip building with fiberglass can produce a lighter boat than an all plywood one, but it was not the best choice for this effort because it would have been too expensive and time consuming to experiment with. To me strip building would work better with plans and/or patterns. This one was "by eye and by hand".
I am reluctant to attach foam/rubber to the boat. A tip to reduce paddle noise when it makes contact with the gunnels is to put the foam on the paddle. I tried a better paddle with composite shaft but for fishing (stealth) I prefer my cheap metal shaft one with the foam grips. I just need to lengthen them for when I get careless and don't rest the paddle on the foam.

beekeeper
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,437
13
#47
I had two main goals for this build. One was to learn how to have the lines of the tumblehome panels flow into the breasthooks/decks at a more natural look( to my eye). I am pleased. The other was to have it fit in my truck better. My other boat sort of tetters there until it is tied or some weight is added. I failed. This one is doable but my efforts did not change the problem.
I finally figured out the error. I shortened the floor by 6", but the sides at the stems are taller so the overall length remained about the same. Normally I would have made some rough sketches and would have known the overall length befor building. The height of the sides at the stem(for this boat) was not determined until they were cut to make the shape I prefered.
Live and learn.

bee
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,012
68
81
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
#48
1. Get 1 small, cloth bag.
2. Add 3-4 pounds of ballast, say, sand.
3. Add bag of ballast to end of boat that will be forward in the truck bed.
4. Put boat into truck and tie the sucker down.
5. Remove bag of ballast.
6. Go inside and sip a beer.
7. Congratulate self on having cheated death again.