TV 15-32 SOF
- Thread starter woodman
- Start date
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Woodman, I just have to ask. The lashing on the bow stem piece looks like it wouldn't withstand a lot of abuse. It looks to me like one, good bashing of the bow into a stump or something, would tear it loose from the longerons. Now, I'm betting that I'm wrong in that assessment, cause it looks like you know what you're doing. Are there other fasteners I'm not seeing? Or, is that lashing stronger than it looks?
A few years ago, on a baidarka forum, some guys were waxing enthusiastic over a "bifurcated bow" and how it was maybe hydrodynamically more clean than a standard, shaped bow. When I see your boat frame there, I realize that all someone did was reverse the bow stem piece and lash it into place. Only two functions I could envision for one of them was "A." maybe attract a cute gal in their camp, or "B." scoop up the top of fishing nets laid out in a semi-circle and concentrate fish in the nets.
A few years ago, on a baidarka forum, some guys were waxing enthusiastic over a "bifurcated bow" and how it was maybe hydrodynamically more clean than a standard, shaped bow. When I see your boat frame there, I realize that all someone did was reverse the bow stem piece and lash it into place. Only two functions I could envision for one of them was "A." maybe attract a cute gal in their camp, or "B." scoop up the top of fishing nets laid out in a semi-circle and concentrate fish in the nets.
The bow and stern stem pcs. are notched out to receive the keel and upper deck stringers ..so the shock would be absorbed into the front frame and the keel...
With the wife and here season ticket gone today to the Chiefs vrs. Raiders game...I got in some lashing...
And some work on the canoe..
And some work on the canoe..
I wondered about notching, but didn't detect any. Thanks.woodman said:The bow and stern stem pcs. are notched out to receive the keel and upper deck stringers ..so the shock would be absorbed into the front frame and the keel...
Kayak Jack said:A few years ago, on a baidarka forum, some guys were waxing enthusiastic over a "bifurcated bow" and how it was maybe hydrodynamically more clean than a standard, shaped bow. }/quote]
I was curious about that idea too, Jack. I did a little more digging. The most plausible reason I found had to do with the mechanics of stitching the hide in the bow region. The people that used them for a living figured they needed a sharp, thin entry. They also needed a fuller, more bouyant upper bow to ride over the waves and not plow through them. Well, skin and wood are difficult to stitch into that combination of shapes, so they seperated them. Works for me.
Joey
Ease of construction wasn't a reason that dawned on me. Good idea, Joey. I envisioned a large net, say, 10' deep and 200 yards long with floats along the top edge and weights along the bottom. Boats with a hooked snout (bifurcated bow, it was called) could be used to herd such a net along into a semi-circle, and on into shore to waiting hands with hand-nets to toss fish up on to shore to more waiting hands with knives.
Your whitened frames remind me. I finished off the interior of my kayaks with white epoxy. The increased reflectivity helps when you're looking around for little things left behind in stem ends.
The frames are made from baltic birch..And they are scalloped back to give space between the skin and frame..
Looking good....and yes there is an invite to the north. Thomas Hill would probably be less than a 2 hour drive for you. I would love to have an excuse to go give the Hybreds a try.
beekeeper said:Why the space between the frame and skin? Does the skin finish out smooth, or can you feel the weave?
beekeeper
The clearance between the frame and skin is to keep it from catching on stuff if you were to run up on submerged timber or rocks etc..that would push up on the fabric and bump into the frame...
I don't know how they finish out...either nylon or pollyester...
I know the nylon is tough...
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php ... 2069051490
mosportsmen said:Looking good....and yes there is an invite to the north. Thomas Hill would probably be less than a 2 hour drive for you. I would love to have an excuse to go give the Hybreds a try.
Tom that sounds good to me...
It is about ready for the skin...
For a tandem I would think the front seat would go between the 3rd and 4th frame from the bow, and the back seat between the last 2 frames that would give about 4 feet between seats.....
The gunwales seem rather ridged , I wonder if I should install a thwart.
For a tandem I would think the front seat would go between the 3rd and 4th frame from the bow, and the back seat between the last 2 frames that would give about 4 feet between seats.....
The gunwales seem rather ridged , I wonder if I should install a thwart.
Scalloped ribs..........just a hunch. Paddler's weight and water pressure will tend to stretch the hull fabric no matter how tight you are able to get it. If the fabric is touching the whole span of the rib, it cannot stretch in that area but can stretch between ribs. So you end up with a bottom that has a slight bump at each rib. A bumpy bottom ( :roll: ) is not good for efficiency. With the scalloped rib, the fabric stretches, leaves no bump at each rib location, and gives a much fairer surface
Joey
Joey